If you're fairly confident that the fuel and brake lines are the only big repair for a while, I say keep it. This is presuming the engine/transmission are A-OK. $1200 bucks is cheap if it lasts you another 20-40k miles.
Time to get rid of the Integra?
- Thread starter ThirdeYe
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Seems kinda expensive for those repairs. I was quoted $800 for all brake and fuel lines by Car X for my Buick.
Buick parts =/= Acura parts.
I think it's time. It's surprising you got 20 years out of a 90s Honda in Michigan anyway, would have expected it to rust out more than a couple years ago. Time to see what's on the market, imo.
Seems kinda expensive for those repairs. I was quoted $800 for all brake and fuel lines by Car X for my Buick.
Buick parts =/= Acura parts.
I think it's time. It's surprising you got 20 years out of a 90s Honda in Michigan anyway, would have expected it to rust out more than a couple years ago. Time to see what's on the market, imo.
JHZR2
Staff member
The car is worth what it costs to replace it. That said, we got rid of our integra with 188k and a stellar drivetrain (other than a horrid clutch) because of ominous rust, and the fact that a ton of rubber parts had been replaced once already...
ThirdeYe,
Can you post pictures of the rust ?
I'm thinking you can find an indy mechanic and keep the car since you put a bunch of $$$ into it. Avoid the dealership for your needs.
Can you post pictures of the rust ?
I'm thinking you can find an indy mechanic and keep the car since you put a bunch of $$$ into it. Avoid the dealership for your needs.
I appreciate the posts and read them all. I slept on it and decided that since I did spend so much on maintenance recently that it might be best to try to make it last through the winter. I'll call a few other shops to see what they would charge for brake/fuel lines and go from there. I know someone who said they would sell their Camry to me but they don't want to sell it until next year, so if I can make my car last until then, it would be ideal.
The shop that did my brakes, fuel tank and fuel lines was very shady and I've tried twice to have them make it right with me when they used the wrong connector going into the fuel filter that kept leaking, and they wouldn't. I won't go back there again.
The shop that did my brakes, fuel tank and fuel lines was very shady and I've tried twice to have them make it right with me when they used the wrong connector going into the fuel filter that kept leaking, and they wouldn't. I won't go back there again.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
ThirdeYe,
Can you post pictures of the rust ?
I'm thinking you can find an indy mechanic and keep the car since you put a bunch of $$$ into it. Avoid the dealership for your needs.
I would, but the car is 40 minutes away from me now and I haven't taken any recent pics of it. The rust is pretty bad, though.
ThirdeYe,
Can you post pictures of the rust ?
I'm thinking you can find an indy mechanic and keep the car since you put a bunch of $$$ into it. Avoid the dealership for your needs.
I would, but the car is 40 minutes away from me now and I haven't taken any recent pics of it. The rust is pretty bad, though.
Originally Posted By: asiancivicmaniac
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Clearly sabotage. Dealerships often sabotage $500 beaters betting they can get the owner in a new $47K MDX
No they don't. You're pretty naive if you think service and sales are in anyway on the same team, bud...
I think he's being sarcastic in reply to the poster above him
That's a fact.
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Clearly sabotage. Dealerships often sabotage $500 beaters betting they can get the owner in a new $47K MDX
No they don't. You're pretty naive if you think service and sales are in anyway on the same team, bud...
I think he's being sarcastic in reply to the poster above him
That's a fact.
With you being in snow/salt country, on the next vehicle, try and keep the rust from getting out of hand. I've bent up new brake lines on some of my cars over the years, and it may be something you can handle yourself? I can't see time/materials getting into the $ range you're being quoted-good luck
Time to walk over to the sales side and buy a new Acura.
Find an indie who'll replace brake lines as needed for less money.
It sounds as though this car is mechanically sound.
The dealership should be the last place you take a car after it's out of warranty.
Too many good indies out there who will do the required work at less cost.
The dealer is quoting you prices based upon OEM parts ready to install, while any decent shop will bend and flare brake lines to fit, or just use generic lines with the right flare nuts and length, available from any parts store for cheap.
The dealer's shop is also assuming that the fuel lines require replacement, even though they probably don't.
It sounds as though this car is mechanically sound.
The dealership should be the last place you take a car after it's out of warranty.
Too many good indies out there who will do the required work at less cost.
The dealer is quoting you prices based upon OEM parts ready to install, while any decent shop will bend and flare brake lines to fit, or just use generic lines with the right flare nuts and length, available from any parts store for cheap.
The dealer's shop is also assuming that the fuel lines require replacement, even though they probably don't.
I did take a look at the quote they gave me and they quoted over $600 in parts alone (all OEM), and I did talk to an indie yesterday and they said they'd just use a coil of brake lines and do it for a fraction of the cost. He mentioned it would likely only be a couple hundred. However, I'll have to pay to have it towed over 30 miles, which I'm thinking will be $150-200 at the least. I found someone who was interested in buying it, but if they don't buy it for the price I want, I'm just going to tow it to this other shop that said they can do it for less and hope to get another year out of the vehicle at the very least. And yep, they did add into the quote the fuel lines which was over half of the cost alone.
As for me working on it, I only know how to do a few basic maintenance things in terms of working on vehicles. Definitely not a mechanic. I can do oil changes, transmission fluid changes, spark plug changes, air filter changes, etc. but that's about it.
As for me working on it, I only know how to do a few basic maintenance things in terms of working on vehicles. Definitely not a mechanic. I can do oil changes, transmission fluid changes, spark plug changes, air filter changes, etc. but that's about it.
From the ops post, it seems like it may be the time to let the car go. The other time I had this 99 Taurus, that run flawlessly from 11 years, and then started having problems one after another. After spending some 5 grand on all the bills, and wrenching quite a bit myself, I finally sold it because I no longer had confidence in this car.
Speaking of rusting brake lines. This is why it's so important to flush all brake fluid (by bleeding brakes) regularly. I flush all brake fluid every time I change brake pads. Of course, I have also seen brake lines that are badly rusted from the outside as well, and that's something that can be an issue in the midwest.
By the way, it's entirely possible that a "new" replacement fuel line can start failing within a couple of years. The replacement parts that are not OEM parts from the dealership (which always seems to demand a 300% markup on them) are 95% garbage usually made in China. I have seen genuine OEM suspension parts work for a decade, and then their aftermarket replacement fail within a year. That's another issue to consider if you want to maintain a really old car.
Speaking of rusting brake lines. This is why it's so important to flush all brake fluid (by bleeding brakes) regularly. I flush all brake fluid every time I change brake pads. Of course, I have also seen brake lines that are badly rusted from the outside as well, and that's something that can be an issue in the midwest.
By the way, it's entirely possible that a "new" replacement fuel line can start failing within a couple of years. The replacement parts that are not OEM parts from the dealership (which always seems to demand a 300% markup on them) are 95% garbage usually made in China. I have seen genuine OEM suspension parts work for a decade, and then their aftermarket replacement fail within a year. That's another issue to consider if you want to maintain a really old car.
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Just wanted to post an update on this, I ended up getting it repaired at an independent shop for about 25% of the price that the dealership quoted me. They just cut off the old brake lines and bent new ones into place, since the old ones were such a pain to get to and because of the fuel lines being all rusted together with them, basically. Drove it home and it stopped just fine again. Now the door hinge/handle/lock is getting stiff with the cold weather, so I have to figure out how to lubricate that. Other than that little issue, it seems to be good to go again.
I missed driving it.
Originally Posted By: Zako2
From the ops post, it seems like it may be the time to let the car go. The other time I had this 99 Taurus, that run flawlessly from 11 years, and then started having problems one after another. After spending some 5 grand on all the bills, and wrenching quite a bit myself, I finally sold it because I no longer had confidence in this car.
Speaking of rusting brake lines. This is why it's so important to flush all brake fluid (by bleeding brakes) regularly. I flush all brake fluid every time I change brake pads. Of course, I have also seen brake lines that are badly rusted from the outside as well, and that's something that can be an issue in the midwest.
By the way, it's entirely possible that a "new" replacement fuel line can start failing within a couple of years. The replacement parts that are not OEM parts from the dealership (which always seems to demand a 300% markup on them) are 95% garbage usually made in China. I have seen genuine OEM suspension parts work for a decade, and then their aftermarket replacement fail within a year. That's another issue to consider if you want to maintain a really old car.
I actually had the brake lines bled a few times since I've owned it, it was more likely an issue of all of the salty roads for 20 years. I do plan on getting a different vehicle in about a year or so when a friend of mine is going to be getting a new vehicle, he said he would sell me his current one, so I very likely will end up doing that.
From the ops post, it seems like it may be the time to let the car go. The other time I had this 99 Taurus, that run flawlessly from 11 years, and then started having problems one after another. After spending some 5 grand on all the bills, and wrenching quite a bit myself, I finally sold it because I no longer had confidence in this car.
Speaking of rusting brake lines. This is why it's so important to flush all brake fluid (by bleeding brakes) regularly. I flush all brake fluid every time I change brake pads. Of course, I have also seen brake lines that are badly rusted from the outside as well, and that's something that can be an issue in the midwest.
By the way, it's entirely possible that a "new" replacement fuel line can start failing within a couple of years. The replacement parts that are not OEM parts from the dealership (which always seems to demand a 300% markup on them) are 95% garbage usually made in China. I have seen genuine OEM suspension parts work for a decade, and then their aftermarket replacement fail within a year. That's another issue to consider if you want to maintain a really old car.
I actually had the brake lines bled a few times since I've owned it, it was more likely an issue of all of the salty roads for 20 years. I do plan on getting a different vehicle in about a year or so when a friend of mine is going to be getting a new vehicle, he said he would sell me his current one, so I very likely will end up doing that.
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