2014 Fiesta 1.0L ecoboost MC 5w20 6,952 miles

[zpinch]

the easy break-in is one of those myths that die hard, along with the 3000 mile OCI. I know the break-in procedure is hard to prove to you, especially in the vehicle category, however, many people in the motorcycle world are starting to do this method (started by 'motoman tuning') with great success.

Again, you can do whatever the $&@! you wanna do.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: steve20
if it is a 2 cycle yes-run it hard to begin with.
If I was able to post the owner's manual section from my daughter's car I would.
It indicates a 1000 mile break in period with no more than 60% of max RPM and indicates a much more moderate break in procedure than you have described---basically the opposite of what you said. So unless you are a mechanical engineer who focuses on engine development, I'll continue thru my 4th decade of breaking engines in the easy way




Instead of being a {removed personal insult} why not actually read the motoman data. The guy builds and races bikes and has real world data to back up his method.
Just because you think you know what your talking about doesn't mean you do.
How many of your engines have you torn apart and seen the inside of?
How well is the ring seal?
Or do you just think it's fine because you "haven't had any problems"

 

[zpinch]

I take it you are already familiar with Motoman, Clevy?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: zpinch
I take it you are already familiar with Motoman, Clevy?



Yep.


When I went big bore on my harley I dug up and read just about every article and post that Google brought up and I will admit at first I thought the whole idea of driving an engine really hard when new was foreign to me.
I too believed a soft break in might be the best way to go about breaking in an engine,until I read from just about every high performance engine builder that a soft break in will lead to improper ring seal and likely oil consumption for the entire life of the engine.
One builder wrote if you want a weak engine then break it in weak.
Now we here at bitog seem to think that a quart of oil consumtion over 1000 miles is absurd,yet the oem call it normal. I wonder why.
Could it be that if you follow their break in instructions is the potential for oil consumtion higher and is that why they say a quart per thousand miles is no biggie?
So since investing all those hours of research about engine break in and seeing countless pics of engines broken in both ways and the evidence of blowby is right there on the screen I'm sold on a spirited break in.
Low tension rings are already an issue and they require cylinder pressure to actually seal against the cylinder walls so why not give them as much help as I can to help prolong the engines sealing ability over its lifetime.
The engine builders I spoke to locally and the track rats all said the same thing to me in relation to break in.
No more than 3/4 throttle in gear with high load and ample gear shifting to slow godown the engine revs.
On my bike I rode from saskatoon to Vonda which is 30 miles each way. I used lots of throttle in a high gear so there was a large fuel charge but low rpm so the rings would push harder against the cylinder walls.
If racers who build their own engines say they break in their engines with high load then that's all I need to know.
I'm aware that today's metal finishes mean break in isn't as important as it used to be but I figure why take chances.
My bike was originally dynotuned with 100hp and 110tq.
When I went back 2 weeks later they didn't touch anything as far as tuning but the bike was at 106hp and 115tq.
So it gained power as it broke break in. The bike shop that did my tuning said a couple hp and tq was common,and he'd never seen a bike gain 5hp before.
So I'm confident a hard break in provides a better ring seal and maintains ring seal for longer.

 

[zpinch]

Thanks for adding that Clevy. I wish i had a new vehicle right about now...

 

[jimbrewer]

Originally Posted By: badtlc
It does not come with an automatic option. Just more fuel for the fire about companies purposely shaving EPA numbers to sell more marked up automatics. When companies magically need to eek out max MPGs for certain trims, they are still going to MTXs.


Possibly, but not necessarily. If Ford put a CVT transmission in it, the story would have been about the pitiful 1.0 liter engine and awful transmission. It never would have gotten off the ground. with manual only, the story is about the sparkling little car and its fine handling. Not many cars are sold with manual transmissions anymore, so it was a gutsy move by Ford. I don't know who is responsible for that decision, but he is an absolute genius.

 

[badtlc]

Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
Originally Posted By: badtlc
It does not come with an automatic option. Just more fuel for the fire about companies purposely shaving EPA numbers to sell more marked up automatics. When companies magically need to eek out max MPGs for certain trims, they are still going to MTXs.


Possibly, but not necessarily. If Ford put a CVT transmission in it, the story would have been about the pitiful 1.0 liter engine and awful transmission. It never would have gotten off the ground. with manual only, the story is about the sparkling little car and its fine handling. Not many cars are sold with manual transmissions anymore, so it was a gutsy move by Ford. I don't know who is responsible for that decision, but he is an absolute genius.


They went with the MTX because it is the most efficient transmission.

 

[chado_skins]

did the universal avgs change so much from sample to sample because a different oil was used? where do these universal averages come from?

 

[chado_skins]

to answer my own question, per blackstone: the averages are from engines, not oil types. which begs the question, how much data do they really have on your engine if the avgs change than much in a few months?

 

[badtlc]

Ignore universal averages. UOAs are really only good for establishing baselines and trends for your application.

 

[CT8]

Looks like a new engine uoa. Spending money to watch the wear metals drop.

 

[pbm]

I am currently debating (with myself) on when to change the FF oil in my new 2014 Focus. I had always dumped FF by 1000 to 1500 miles but I'm thinking of going a bit further and this UOA gives me the confidence to do so.

I will probably change it at 2500 or 3000 miles but definitely no more than that.

These Ford 4 cylinders seem to be pretty easy on oil so I'll probably do 7500 mile OCIs on synthetic after running the 2nd oil approx. 4K.

Is the 3 cylinder an in-house Ford design or Mazda technology like my MKR 2.0?

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
If it were mine, I'd have another crack at MC...but it's not, and you are on a good thing with the PUP.


+1

 

[jimbrewer]

Not quite. He gets a good fix on what happens with tbn and tan and viscosity over the course of the change interval, which are the main things.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Do you run 91 in order to see those mpg figures? Enjoying the low end torque?

I really like this engine on paper

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: zpinch
FYI, you should only run factory fill for ~40 miles at most, and drive the car hard with full throttle, don't quite hit redline, and full off throttle for full engine vacuum. Keep doing this right from the get go in about 2nd or 3rd gear, or 2nd in an auto if it has 2nd gear lock (stays in 2nd right from stop), do this for the first 20 miles (accelerate - decelerate) and then just drive it like you stole it. Drive another 20 miles like you stole it and then dump the oil (ideally you even remove the oil pan and clean it, pour new CHEAP [censored] oil, let it run for a bit to flush it out, then put a good quality break in oil for a few thousand miles. This method produces the most well seated piston rings and cylinder walls for the most effective seal and in turn compression, and in turn power, and finally engine longevity. But this is still anecdotal, so do whatever the @#$% you wanna do!


Keep in mind this is one person's OPINION, which I happen to totally disagree with. Acceleration & deceleration are important to seat the rings but running a new engine to almost redline is ridiculous
It is on the internet!!!

 

[whirledpeaz]

Here's the data from my third oil change. I used PUP 5w20. So far I have not ever had to top off the oil.
Html:




OIL MC5w20 ff PUP 5w20 PUP 5w20 UNIV AV

MILES IN USE 6,952 7,415 9,853

MILES 6,952 14,367 24,220

SAMPLE TAKEN 6/1/14 9/15/14 2/1/15



ALUMINUM 11 7 5 6

CHROMIUM 0 0 0 0

IRON 25 14 12 15

COPPER 47 9 3 2

LEAD 0 1 0 2

TIN 0 0 0 1

MOLYBDENUM 26 48 57 94

NICKEL 0 0 0 0

MANGANESE 21 5 3 1

SILVER 0 0 0 0

TITANIUM 0 2 2 0

POTASSIUM 4 0 3 4

BORON 4 52 53 76

SILICON 82 24 17 8

SODIUM 2 4 4 19

CALCIUM 1914 2284 2396 2467

MAGNESIUM 12 32 33 127

PHOSPHORUS 782 715 715 632

ZINC 914 798 841 708

BARIUM 1 0 0 1



SUS VIS @ 210ºF 52.0 51.1 51.8

cSt VIS @ 100ºC 7.88 7.62 7.81

FLASHPOINT ºF 420 405 400

FUEL %
ANTIFREEZE % 0.0 0.0 0.0

WATER % 0.0 0.0 0.0

INSOLUBLES % 0.1 0.2 0.2

TBN 4.0 6.5 4.7


Blackstone comments:

6/1/14
When it comes to the first sample, it's not unusual to find some higher metals and silicon. The metals are from new parts wearing in and getting acquainted with one another and the silicon is from sand casted parts and harmless sealers used to put the engine together. It might take a few oil changes to wash this stuff out, but eventually, your samples should look better than universal averages, which are under construction since these are new engines and we haven't seen many samples from them yet. The TBN was strong at 4.0 so try 8K miles next time.

9/15/14
There's a lot of nice progress to talk about in this sample. Copper has improved, and other metals have come
down a bit as well. Copper is still just high enough to mark, but another improvement like this next time should bring it
right down in range. Silicon might take another oil change or two to get there, but the progress is appropriate so far. The
TBN read 6.5, showing lots of active additive left in the oil. No fuel, moisture, or coolant was found. We guessed by
"5W/20 PUP" you meant Pennzoil Ultra, but let us know if that's not right. Nice progress!

2/1/15
The new 1.0L turbo engine in your Fiesta is coming along very nicely.
Wear metals have all improved. They are low and well balanced, showing that the engine made its way through the
wear-in process just fine. This is also a good sign that no mechanical problems are developing. The oil itself was free of
fuel and coolant contamination, and the viscosity was normal for a 5W/20. Low insolubles and silicon show good oil and
air filtration. The TBN came in strong, so feel free to try 12,000 miles on the next oil.

 

[davison0976]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: zpinch
I take it you are already familiar with Motoman, Clevy?



Yep.


When I went big bore on my harley I dug up and read just about every article and post that Google brought up and I will admit at first I thought the whole idea of driving an engine really hard when new was foreign to me.
I too believed a soft break in might be the best way to go about breaking in an engine,until I read from just about every high performance engine builder that a soft break in will lead to improper ring seal and likely oil consumption for the entire life of the engine.
One builder wrote if you want a weak engine then break it in weak.
Now we here at bitog seem to think that a quart of oil consumtion over 1000 miles is absurd,yet the oem call it normal. I wonder why.
Could it be that if you follow their break in instructions is the potential for oil consumtion higher and is that why they say a quart per thousand miles is no biggie?
So since investing all those hours of research about engine break in and seeing countless pics of engines broken in both ways and the evidence of blowby is right there on the screen I'm sold on a spirited break in.
Low tension rings are already an issue and they require cylinder pressure to actually seal against the cylinder walls so why not give them as much help as I can to help prolong the engines sealing ability over its lifetime.
The engine builders I spoke to locally and the track rats all said the same thing to me in relation to break in.
No more than 3/4 throttle in gear with high load and ample gear shifting to slow godown the engine revs.
On my bike I rode from saskatoon to Vonda which is 30 miles each way. I used lots of throttle in a high gear so there was a large fuel charge but low rpm so the rings would push harder against the cylinder walls.
If racers who build their own engines say they break in their engines with high load then that's all I need to know.
I'm aware that today's metal finishes mean break in isn't as important as it used to be but I figure why take chances.
My bike was originally dynotuned with 100hp and 110tq.
When I went back 2 weeks later they didn't touch anything as far as tuning but the bike was at 106hp and 115tq.
So it gained power as it broke break in. The bike shop that did my tuning said a couple hp and tq was common,and he'd never seen a bike gain 5hp before.
So I'm confident a hard break in provides a better ring seal and maintains ring seal for longer.



At least some manufacturers agree with this. Here are a few lines from the Break-In Procedures section of the 2013 Jeep Wrangler Owner's Manual:

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.

They just caution against high rpm with little or no load.

 

[bigt61]

OP - thanks for posting - that engine continues to impress. Very nice #'s again.

 

[whirledpeaz]

Originally Posted By: bigt61
OP - thanks for posting - that engine continues to impress. Very nice #'s again.


My pleasure! I'm completely satisfied with this engine so far.