Mobil 1 0w-40 OK for Winter in VQ35HR?

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cutlassvillager

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Will the M1 0w-40 be too thick at startup (vs a 0/5w-30) for a Michigan winter in my newly aquired VQ35HR powered Infiniti? I would like to run it as I know it is a good oil, has been recommended by some for the VQ35 and I would like to make it thru the winter comfortably on one oil change. I like doing oil changes myself, but not so much during freezing temps.

The car will be outside (covered parking) all winter. I live in West Michigan so the temperature will probably drop below 0 degrees Fahrenheit only a handful of times. The vehicle won't see very many short trips. I will be driving this a lot for work, so the vehicle will have a few start/stops after reaching full temperature.

I'm not too concerned about MPG, I would just like to keep wear down. Consumption has been negligible on the 3k on the bulk Valvoline 5w-30 installed at the Toyota dealer I purchased the car from. I already have a PureOne PL14612 ready to go.

Owner's Manual only lists 5w-30.
 
Mobil 1 0w40 is a fine oil for winter, you can do better but it's very good. If we had all of the MRV/CCS specs for every oil it would make it much easier.

M1 0w40


Viscosity, cSt (ASTM D445)
@ 40ºC
75
@ 100ºC
13.5
Viscosity Index 185
MRV at -40ºC, cP (ASTM D4684) 31,000
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC, (ASTM D4683) 3.8
Total Base Number (ASTM D2896) 11.8
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 1.3
Phosphorous, wt% (ASTM D4981) 0.1
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Density @15.6 ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.85


M1 0w30


SAE Grade 0W-30
Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.9
Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 62.9
Viscosity Index 166
Phosphorous (ASTM D4951) 0.065
Sulfated Ash, wt%, (ASTM D874) 0.9
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.0
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 226
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -50
Total Base Number (ASTM D2896) 9.1
MRV @ -40 ºC (ASTM D4684) 13,250
Density @15.6 ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.842



You can see the 0w30 has a much better MRV @ -40C, but you will never get that cold, both are more than adequate.

Just think about all the people who will be running 10w30 and still starting fine.


If you want a really stout winter oil, try blending Mobil 1 0w40 with Toyota Genuine 0w20 in a 50/50 ratio or with a 60/40 since your VQ probably likes it a little thicker. You will end up with a high VI 0w30 that will beat any 0w30 on the market.
 
M1 0w40 oil will work fine in the winter. The 0w part is what counts in cold weather, not the 40 part. So, no, it is not too thick at start up... it is in fact, one of the least thick 40 grade oils at start up, at VERY COLD temperatures...as in -40* C, which also happens to be -40*F... as in really really COLD.

But an 0w30 will be thinner at cold temps than an 0w40... to get the 0w rating, the oil cannot exceed certain cranking and pumping spec's regarding cold viscosity. An 0w40 will often barely pass the tests, whereas an 0w30 will pass with room to spare, and an 0w20 will easily pass... but all are better than ANY 5w oil, which could not earn the 0w rating at the test temperatures.

Maybe M1 0w30 AFE... ?

Or, just use M1 0w40 in both cars, and don't worry about it... !
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you want a really stout winter oil, try blending Mobil 1 0w40 with Toyota Genuine 0w20 in a 50/50 ratio or with a 60/40 since your VQ probably likes it a little thicker. You will end up with a high VI 0w30 that will beat any 0w30 on the market.


You can say that you will end up with a high VI 30 for sure.

You can't really state with absolute certainty that it WILL be a 0W...it SHOULD be a 0W, but you, I, and the creator of the blend can't state that it meets 0W performance standards.

OP at 0F is fine on either of Mobil's 0W offerings.
 
Originally Posted By: geeman789
M1 0w40 oil will work fine in the winter. The 0w part is what counts in cold weather, not the 40 part. So, no, it is not too thick at start up... it is in fact, one of the least thick 40 grade oils at start up, at VERY COLD temperatures...as in -40* C, which also happens to be -40*F... as in really really COLD.

But an 0w30 will be thinner at cold temps than an 0w40... to get the 0w rating, the oil cannot exceed certain cranking and pumping spec's regarding cold viscosity. An 0w40 will often barely pass the tests, whereas an 0w30 will pass with room to spare, and an 0w20 will easily pass... but all are better than ANY 5w oil, which could not earn the 0w rating at the test temperatures.

Maybe M1 0w30 AFE... ?

Or, just use M1 0w40 in both cars, and don't worry about it... !



K......what.

a0w-40 will barely pass what test
 
Good point Clevy...so what would be said about 0W50, 0W60 ?

Lubricants are a compromise, and a pass is a pass...it would make little financial sense to target thrashing the cold pumping specs when you get to put on the bottle "0W"
 
No problem whatsoever. At -23c the VQ35 engine cranks easily and fires right up.
I also use it in all my small engines, -10f 13HP snow blower had a flat battery and i pull started it with no problem, it pulled through and started easily.

This little OHV engine is splash fed and only runs in winter, yet after break in i have not had to adjust the valves once in 8 years. It is keeping valve train wear and cam wear to a minimum.
No need to play home brew master, its just wasting your time.
 
If your engine calls for a 30wt oil then use M1 0-30. 0-30AFE will provide as good wear protection as 0-40.
 
Thanks everyone. I will probably run the 0w-40 then and possibly mix in some 0w-20. I was thinking of running the 40wt as it sounds like this motor tends to shear oil quickly....and it does make thing easier having 1 oil for 2 cars. Especially since I just took advantage of the M1 rebate and bought 10 quarts of 0w-40 from WalMart.
 
Originally Posted By: geeman789
M1 0w40 oil will work fine in the winter. The 0w part is what counts in cold weather, not the 40 part. So, no, it is not too thick at start up... it is in fact, one of the least thick 40 grade oils at start up, at VERY COLD temperatures...as in -40* C, which also happens to be -40*F... as in really really COLD.


Sure it stands for "winter", but the requirements to meet 0W are for pumping and viscosity at some ridiculously low temperatures that most of us won't encounter. I would guess that many 5W-30 oils will be thinner at around freezing temps than M1 0W-40.

I use it myself in my WRX and wouldn't have an issue taking it up to the mountains in the winter, but these numbers describe endpoints and not necessarily the temperatures that we face on a regular basis.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
If you want a really stout winter oil, try blending Mobil 1 0w40 with Toyota Genuine 0w20 in a 50/50 ratio or with a 60/40 since your VQ probably likes it a little thicker. You will end up with a high VI 0w30 that will beat any 0w30 on the market.


You can say that you will end up with a high VI 30 for sure.

You can't really state with absolute certainty that it WILL be a 0W...it SHOULD be a 0W, but you, I, and the creator of the blend can't state that it meets 0W performance standards.

What utter nonsense.
Yes I CAN state with absolute certainty that you
will end up with a 0W-30. Not only that, I can also state with absolute certainty that the MRV and CCS will be lower than that of M1 0W-40.
 
I think that's the fundamental misunderstanding of what "compatibility" means in the ASTM (or, LOL, the GF5/GF6) testing.

The ASTM means mixes without splitting like a crook salad dressing when cooled, heated, cooled, and thawed again...got nothing to do with 0W, 5W, 10W, and nothing to do with additive compatibility/synergism...or even how the unicorn tears make crooked parts salesmen fly straight.

PQIA don't test the 0W part of the oils, nor how they perform at various other industry tests (like the sequence IV as an example)...it's not a shortcoming, as they are clearly identifying sub standard, misrepresented brands, and having product.

They could tell you that the blend viscosity wise is consistent with a 30, they could tell you that the phosphorous is outside ILSAC or SN limits for a 30...they could tell you that the volatility is better then TGMO.
 
My freezer is only good down to 20W...only fail that I've had is Gulf Western 20W-50 doesn't appear to be what it's advertised at, being worse than the SAE30s I've tried.
 
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