Liqui Moly engine detox works!

[19jacobob93]

Dropped the old 10w30 Durablend out after 4,500km which came out very thin after a good run on a hot day.
I changed the filter, filled it up with some cheap 15w40 dino and took it for another spin. When I got back I added the Engine Detox and let it idle for 15 mins, holding it at 2000rpm for a few seconds every 5 mins. When I pulled the drain plug out it fired out and went everywhere it was that thin! I couldn't control it haha it had turned the pretty heavy 15w40 to water!
Anyway, bear in mind I always change my oil between 3,000 and 7,500km depending on how bored I am and hasn't gone past 5,000km this year, the oil that came out was only 4,500km (~2,800mi) old and I changed the filter before the flush (pretty much all old oil out) this is what I dopped after the flush!


It came out just as dark as the old oil which was surprising so it must do a good job of cleaning! Some of it might be MoS2 but there was only half a bottle and it didn't effect the colour of the oil before.
Changed the filter again and topped up with Durablend 10w40 + the other half can of MoS2 but the lifters are very rattly with this stuff so I think I'll go back to 10w30 next time!

 

[CharBaby]

Just asking!

Do you think that the lifters are "rattly" with the Durablend 10W40 due to the MoS2 ? Does the MoS2 thin oil ?

As the 10W30 certainly would be thinner(on it's own), one would think that the lifters would "rattle" more on thinner oil such as 0 or 5W20. IDK!

 

[michaelluscher]

What's with the down under set and thick oil?
I just don't get it, how worn could this engine be?

 

[19jacobob93]

Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Just asking!

Do you think that the lifters are "rattly" with the Durablend 10W40 due to the MoS2 ? Does the MoS2 thin oil ?

As the 10W30 certainly would be thinner(on it's own), one would think that the lifters would "rattle" more on thinner oil such as 0 or 5W20. IDK!

Nope only just started using it, didn't make any difference in sound

also doesn't effect viscosity at all at a 1:50 ratio
I thought the same thing! I tried to swap the 10w30 to 15w50 but the store wouldnt let me without a reciept thank God!
And for some strange reason the lifters are quieter with thinner oil on these, i think thin oil can get through the tiny holes on the lifters where thick oil can't

 

[19jacobob93]

Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
What's with the down under set and thick oil?
I just don't get it, how worn could this engine be?

A few reasons why we use thicker oil than the US
Nearly everyone here lives in warm sub tropical coastal areas that don't get much below freezing if they ever do. The most common viscosities here are 10w30 and 10w40 which are useable down to -30c! The few that do live in the colder areas will most likely use thinner oil.
We don't have such strict emission regulations to the point that we were forced to use 0/5w20 oils to prevent voiding warranties. In fact the US and Canada are the only countries that specify 20 weights in Fords and Hondas etc. the same engines in the same conditions in Europe, Asia or Australia will specify a 30 weight and in some cases a 40
We have cars that have covered half a million miles or more on 20w50 with no oil related issues, so this 'thick' 10w30 shouldn't give me any dramas!

 

[19jacobob93]

Also the engine is barely broken in at 190k
Had a peek through the spark plug hole this morning with a light and the original hone marks where as apparent as a brand new engine. Doesn't smoke or use a single drop of oil and still has factory spec compression

In fact I was speaking to someone about these cars who was a taxi mechanic. He said he'd strip the engines of Falcon AU's with over 750,000km on them and the hone marks were still there and they still had full compression. For this reason he went out and bought one! These engines never wear for some magic reason, possible due to the balance of the I6 and decades of perfecting the I6 in the Falcon. I have a friend with one too who hasn't changed his oil or done anything to it in 150,000km and it still runs fine!

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
What's with the down under set and thick oil?


If a manufacturer said that "1qt/1000 miles" was "normal", an Aussie would have a fit.

Some places just accept manufacturers at their word that it's all good.

 

[19jacobob93]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
What's with the down under set and thick oil?


If a manufacturer said that "1qt/1000 miles" was "normal", an Aussie would have a fit.

Some places just accept manufacturers at their word that it's all good.


Agreed, to be fair most people foolishly turn to the magic 20w50 here as soon as the dipstick moves, but if any new car used anything close to 1L in 1,000 it would and should go straight back to the dealer

 

[kschachn]

So what made you think you needed a "detox"? What did the engine look like before you added the Liqui Moly?

I mean, it turned the oil dark but other than that you can't say it did anything, can you? What caused the oil to turn dark?

Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93
Also the engine is barely broken in at 190k
Had a peek through the spark plug hole this morning with a light and the original hone marks where as apparent as a brand new engine. Doesn't smoke or use a single drop of oil and still has factory spec compression

These engines never wear for some magic reason, possible due to the balance of the I6 and decades of perfecting the I6 in the Falcon. I have a friend with one too who hasn't changed his oil or done anything to it in 150,000km and it still runs fine!

 

[kschachn]

I'm willing to bet the 15W-40 without the Liqui Moly would appear just the same.

Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93
I changed the filter, filled it up with some cheap 15w40 dino and took it for another spin. When I got back I added the Engine Detox and let it idle for 15 mins, holding it at 2000rpm for a few seconds every 5 mins. When I pulled the drain plug out it fired out and went everywhere it was that thin! I couldn't control it haha it had turned the pretty heavy 15w40 to water!

 

[19jacobob93]

Place your bets and i'll do it again, this time without the detox.

 

[kschachn]

So what exactly are you claiming the detox did? Remove crud from your engine that caused the oil to turn dark? With your previous maintenance regimen you think there was a bunch of stuff that got cleaned out? How do you know? Did you see it before? I guess I'm just not sure what you believe happened, except that the oil got dark.

Just asking.

 

[4wheeldog]

Sometimes I wonder if engine flushes aren't formulated to just turn dark immediately, when exposed to normal engine temperatures.......So that people think it is actually removing something. Someday when I have too much money in my pocket, I think I will heat some up on the stove, to see what happens.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93

It came out just as dark as the old oil which was surprising so it must do a good job of cleaning! Some of it might be MoS2


Agree x2.

 

[19jacobob93]

That would probably be the case if it came out looking like coke, but it came out cloudy and brown. Most likely removed small sludge deposits from the previous owners OCI of 10,000 as well as a little plated MoS2. I'm hoping it doesn't have the same effect as some people report with synthetics and start to leak!
It's powerful stuff reading independant reviews and tests

 

[19jacobob93]

Well for starters it hasn't always been serviced so well, with the previous owner either doing 10k intervals or following the manual and doing 15k (i hope not)
It most likely removed small sludge deposits from those times as well as some plated moly. It isn't your average kerosene in a bottle 'engine flush', they already have one of those at half the price. It contains very powerful solvents which is why LM don't recommend more that 10-15 mins at a time and independants tests and reviews have shown it's efficiency both inside the engine and on removed parts.
If I thought it was just a normal flush I would have got one for less than half the price

Lots of ignorance by some people. To the point that most people think everything is a useless money spinner when they've never even used it and know absolutely nothing about it

 

[hpb]

Mate, with what you're spending on flushes, top end cleaners, oil, etc., you could've had those rattly lifters replaced by now!

Interesting results with the LM. I may try some in my Falcon just as an experiment. It's sludged up like you wouldn't believe. Still runs like a champ though! And if the flush kills it, meh, I actually bought a repairable write-off AU3 yesterday with only 170,000km, it's eventually going to donate its running gear anyway...it'll just bring the swap on a little earlier!

 

[kschachn]

Just asking questions is all. Didn't know that was the ignorance.

Originally Posted By: 19jacobob93
Lots of ignorance by some people. To the point that most people think everything is a useless money spinner when they've never even used it and know absolutely nothing about it

 

[19jacobob93]

Haha don't want to go to the hassle that's all! And only bought a Nulon lifter free to help them but that stopped when I drained it!
I have found the most obvious way ever to fix the noisy lifters, instead of 10w40 use 10w30 like it says on the goddam' filler cap! Haha so I will god back to the thinner stuff next change and stay there...
And it will work in that for sure! But yeah you're right you don't even have to service these engines and they carry on like new! I know 2 people who each haven't serviced there Falcons in over 150,000km and both run perfect and have never had a single problem with the engine!
And nice! I'm looking at 6 acres in Stanthorpe which I may buy, build a huge shed and start a car collection including a few AUs sing you can pick them up for pocket change these days