94 Corolla rough idle when cold

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Title says it all; it's done it for the last few years, but this year it's particularly bad. It only does it after a cold start and when the engine is coming up to operating temperature. Right as it gets to operating temp and the idle levels off to normal, it idles rough. After the engine thoroughly warms up, like if I drive it for a half hour or more, it idles OK. It just right when it first gets to operating temp and the idle rpms comes down to normal. The symptom isn't present if ambient air temps are warm or hot, only when it's about 40 degrees or less.

Coolant temp sensor? Air temp sensor? There are no codes, no check engine light, and otherwise, it runs great.

Thanks for any input.
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
idle air control valve?


I was thinking that as well, but wouldn't the symptoms be present at all temperatures, not just cold?
 
I assume you did the basics?
Checked ignition system integrity?
Cleaned throttle body with TB cleaner and MAF with MAF cleaner?
Intake air ducting is all correct, no leaves?
Clean your IAC valve
 
Lazy 02? Popping in and out of closed loop? You wouldn't know and the car wouldn't care.
 
Assuming the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs are all in good shape? My '97 had a cold idle (and running) issue for a while, but ran fine when warm. Finally just bought a new cap, rotor and plugs and it went right back to normal. I keep the plugs gapped at .030, thats where it seems happiest, and it seems a bit sensitive to that so I check them about every 10,000 miles or so.

Also, if its never been done before, you might consider opening up the upper half of the intake manifold (its actually quite easy) by removing bolts, hoses and the top half, and spending an hour or two cleaning it out. Same for the throttle body and EGR. You'll be horrified at what you find if its never been opened up before. Google "corolla intake manifold cleaning" and read up.
 
From first start? So while still in open loop, then gets better as it moves to closed loop?

If you've covered the basics like cap, rotor and wires and checked the temp sensor and intake air sensor with a scan tool or meter, then maybe an injector or two plugged up. Can you read fuel trims? Might be time to give Trav a call.
 
Lot of good tips already.
Had a 91 Corolla well cared for and it started to get like that when cold (first ten minutes) checked everything but the plugs as I was 'sure' it can't be them. They were Platinum and had only been in for 1/2 the advertised life.
It was the plugs, the gap had worn too big.
 
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Originally Posted By: michaelluscher
I assume you did the basics?
Checked ignition system integrity?
Cleaned throttle body with TB cleaner and MAF with MAF cleaner?
Intake air ducting is all correct, no leaves?
Clean your IAC valve


DUH, I should have stated those things! All tune up ignition parts are less than a year old; throttle body and IAC valve have been cleaned this summer; it's had copius amounts of various intake/upper end cleaning products run through the system and various cleaners in the crankcase to include a current quart of rislone. I'd assume the problem isn't deposit related. Air filter is clean.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Lazy 02? Popping in and out of closed loop? You wouldn't know and the car wouldn't care.


02 is a new Denso with less than 5,000 miles on it.

Going in and out of closed loop had me thinking coolant temp sensor; doesn't the ECU make the switch based on coolant temp? Or am I wrong on that???
 
I've diagnosed a bad MAF sensor on one Gm car my parents have owned by disconnecting it and letting the ECO go into limp mode; would that work for the coolant temp sensor and intake air temp sensor on a car this old? IE, will it just make it go into limp mode with a check engine light?
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Lazy 02? Popping in and out of closed loop? You wouldn't know and the car wouldn't care.
This causes a lot of trouble with 96 to 2001 Toyotas and won't set an OBD II. Another tip off is a car which runs lean after being shut down long enough for the engine to cool. The O2 hangs up on the warmed up engine (closed lpoop) reading although the engine has cooled enough to need a richer mixture. The engine stalls and backfires until the sensor flips to sending the proper signal. A blast of wide open throttle often causes to sensor to flip. Replacing the sensor solves the problem. This problem seems to happen in the spring and fall when it isn't very cold but cold enough to require the richer open loop mixture for a short period of time after a restart. Input from the water temp sensor apparently isn't enough to override the O2.
This open loop closed loop dance is all to save some PPMs of HC by leaning out the mixture as soon as possible.
It always amazed me that the dealer parts changers, without an OBD code, had NO clue as to what was going on the ONE time I took a car there. The O2s are not cheap, for a Bosch, Denso, or NTK, but if the problem is bad wnough you ought to change it out. The sensor involved is the one in the exhaust manifold, no the one after the converter which is there to monitor the cat, not provide mixture adjustment feedback. The V6 engine is not
as subject as there are TWO sensors, one for each bank.
 
This car uses MAP instead of MAF, or I would have suggested a cleaning. It also have non easily adjustable valve clearance (need to swap disks) so I'd leave that alone. It usually shouldn't wear out of spec.
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Lazy 02? Popping in and out of closed loop? You wouldn't know and the car wouldn't care.
This causes a lot of trouble with 96 to 2001 Toyotas and won't set an OBD II. Another tip off is a car which runs lean after being shut down long enough for the engine to cool. The O2 hangs up on the warmed up engine (closed lpoop) reading although the engine has cooled enough to need a richer mixture. The engine stalls and backfires until the sensor flips to sending the proper signal. A blast of wide open throttle often causes to sensor to flip. Replacing the sensor solves the problem. This problem seems to happen in the spring and fall when it isn't very cold but cold enough to require the richer open loop mixture for a short period of time after a restart. Input from the water temp sensor apparently isn't enough to override the O2.
This open loop closed loop dance is all to save some PPMs of HC by leaning out the mixture as soon as possible.
It always amazed me that the dealer parts changers, without an OBD code, had NO clue as to what was going on the ONE time I took a car there. The O2s are not cheap, for a Bosch, Denso, or NTK, but if the problem is bad wnough you ought to change it out. The sensor involved is the one in the exhaust manifold, no the one after the converter which is there to monitor the cat, not provide mixture adjustment feedback. The V6 engine is not
as subject as there are TWO sensors, one for each bank.


O2 sensor on this car is very easy to change, you only need a crescent wrench of spark plug size (14mm?) and go on rockauto to buy an aftermarket one for around $26 + shipping. Any aftermarket new one will be better than a worn out one that is bad enough to give you rough idle, but of course, NTK and Denso would be ideal for a Japanese car.
 
Did the "rough" idle means the car shake or the engine not running smooth?

My 95 had the same problem before and we though engine wasn't running well, but turns out to be an engine mount. Engine shake resonate at cold idle, amplified if it is in gear instead of neutral.
 
Did you check the EGR valve? I could be stuck. Not sure it's common on your Toyota, but I've seen this happen enough times and it was the EGR that needed cleaning. Sometimes, it just needed replaced.

If you do replace it, search the interweb. Some cars are VERY picky about having only OEM EGR valves, while others could care less.
 
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