Recommendations for 500 HP Olds 455

[electrolover]

to the op
beings your engine builder went threw the trouble of using one of the best break-in oils in the world i would think you need a good high zddp race oil. you might talk to your builder about what kinda oil you should run. if ask my opinion i would run joe gibbs race oil 20/50 or vr1 20/50.
one thing is for sure you dont need to run the break-in oil very long because it has very little detergents, it will sludge up. my brother is a machinist/engine builder and just got back from a joe gibbs event and they say detergents, such as calcium, attack zddp and cause more wear than with out so they put almost none in the break-in oil to give the most protection in the break-in.
as for oci if i had all that money in a 455 i would run a race oil and change often!! every 3 months or 1500 miles because race oils have less detergents. if you go to the track 3 times a month a one month oci would be good. the track is hard on oil.
all my circle track buddies change their oil on race day. i know your going straight but you get the idea right.
trust me, i have spent more time at the tree than a cab driver at stop lights

 

[crashtech]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
.004" is as high and wide as I have heard for rebuild specs.
You need to overcome this deficiency in your build.

This is exactly the mentality that got me chewed up bearings twice in a row. After that, I invested in a dial bore gauge, and gave the machinist the size the journal was going to be, no arguments. BTW, only the rear main is .004, the rest of the journals are closer to .0035".

Quote:
to the op
beings your engine builder went threw the trouble of using one of the best break-in oils in the world i would think you need a good high zddp race oil. you might talk to your builder about what kinda oil you should run. if ask my opinion i would run joe gibbs race oil 20/50 or vr1 20/50.
one thing is for sure you dont need to run the break-in oil very long because it has very little detergents, it will sludge up. my brother is a machinist/engine builder and just got back from a joe gibbs event and they say detergents, such as calcium, attack zddp and cause more wear than with out so they put almost none in the break-in oil to give the most protection in the break-in.
as for oci if i had all that money in a 455 i would run a race oil and change often!! every 3 months or 1500 miles because race oils have less detergents. if you go to the track 3 times a month a one month oci would be good. the track is hard on oil.
all my circle track buddies change their oil on race day. i know your going straight but you get the idea right.
trust me, i have spent more time at the tree than a cab driver at stop lights

I built this engine. As to the dyno operator, he puts BR in every new engine he dynos, I guess he considers it extra insurance.

This engine does have a hydraulic roller cam, which may influence opinions on the required additive package. I believed this freed me up to use a normal pcmo, but if I had absolute confidence in that I would not be here asking questions.

I am resistant to the idea of running 20W-50, though I used to run it in my old Datsun in California, it just seems too thick for this climate. Even in summer most of the nights are pretty cool. This car will be left out from time to time, unfortunately. I don't like the thought of extra wear occurring on startup due to the oil being thick as honey!

 

[A_Harman]

Olds engines are notorious for oil starvation to certain bearings. With bearing clearances ranging up to .004, I think you need a 50-weight. Since you have a roller cam, you don't really need high zddp. I think M1 15W-50 may be the best choice for a commonly available oil, and definitely prefer it to Syntec 5w-50. And since you are still carbureted and running nitrous, change it often. If you are getting fuel dilution in the oil, it will thin out, and you don't want that.

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: crashtech
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
.004" is as high and wide as I have heard for rebuild specs.
You need to overcome this deficiency in your build.

This is exactly the mentality that got me chewed up bearings twice in a row. After that, I invested in a dial bore gauge, and gave the machinist the size the journal was going to be, no arguments. BTW, only the rear main is .004, the rest of the journals are closer to .0035".

Quote:
to the op
beings your engine builder went threw the trouble of using one of the best break-in oils in the world i would think you need a good high zddp race oil. you might talk to your builder about what kinda oil you should run. if ask my opinion i would run joe gibbs race oil 20/50 or vr1 20/50.
one thing is for sure you dont need to run the break-in oil very long because it has very little detergents, it will sludge up. my brother is a machinist/engine builder and just got back from a joe gibbs event and they say detergents, such as calcium, attack zddp and cause more wear than with out so they put almost none in the break-in oil to give the most protection in the break-in.
as for oci if i had all that money in a 455 i would run a race oil and change often!! every 3 months or 1500 miles because race oils have less detergents. if you go to the track 3 times a month a one month oci would be good. the track is hard on oil.
all my circle track buddies change their oil on race day. i know your going straight but you get the idea right.
trust me, i have spent more time at the tree than a cab driver at stop lights

I built this engine. As to the dyno operator, he puts BR in every new engine he dynos, I guess he considers it extra insurance.

This engine does have a hydraulic roller cam, which may influence opinions on the required additive package. I believed this freed me up to use a normal pcmo, but if I had absolute confidence in that I would not be here asking questions.

I am resistant to the idea of running 20W-50, though I used to run it in my old Datsun in California, it just seems too thick for this climate. Even in summer most of the nights are pretty cool. This car will be left out from time to time, unfortunately. I don't like the thought of extra wear occurring on startup due to the oil being thick as honey!

well man if your block is not grouted and your not seeing sustained high rpms just shifts a regular syn should work.
how would you feel about t6 5/40 or i think i have seen 5/50s
if you could get something with better start up and still 40w or higher it should work. right??
have you thought about a pan heater??

 

[jorton]

With a hp pump and thick oil I think you need a racing oil filter. I can see where a passenger car oil filter could starve your engine. Does yours spin on to the engine, or is it re-located?

You can always run 20w-50 like Castrol GTX, and synthetic 5w-50 winter.

 

[901Memphis]

Try Pennzoil Platinum 5w-40 Euro

 

[hooligan24]

would this be a good application for VR1 20w50? Seems like the last time I noticed this oil on the shelf, it was ~$3 a qt.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: hooligan24
would this be a good application for VR1 20w50? Seems like the last time I noticed this oil on the shelf, it was ~$3 a qt.



I would give that a try for only $3 a quart

 

[3311]

Rotella T5 10w40 may be a good option as well. You can get the 10w40 flavor at Tractor Supply down here.

 

[KW]

I think my first choice would be Rotella T 5W40 unless the oil presser is not good when the motor is up to temp with it. Then you might want to try maybe Castrol 5W50 or Mobil 1 15W50.

Oldsmobile V8's are bad about having all the oil pool up in the valve covers at high RPM so keep an eye on the oil pressure when it's rev'd up.

 

[pjc360]

Mobil 1 0w-40. I live in eastern idaho and although I don't have a 455 olds I do run a 320hp crate 360 magnum. I've seen the temps in the winter over here as low as 30 below. I just asked what oil I should be running and majority recommended a 0w-40.
I have no idea what my bearing clearances are ether, since you do know your clearances are a little loose I would personally choose a 5w-50. That way you have the good oil flow at a cold start up if you have one, I beloeve 5w-50 is good to 25 below zero and you'll have the 50 weight to lubricate the engine when warm.

 

[Merkava_4]

Joe Gibbs Hot Rod Oil 15W-50

 

[splinter]

^ What is the likelihood crashtech has already made his sump's selection? :nix:

 

[Zaedock]

The original poster hasn't been on since he started the post nearly four years ago.

 

[pjc360]

Lol I'd say he probably already chose something. Now I feel like an idiot for not looking at the dates.

 

[340_Magnum]

I would also consider the Brad Penn Penn Grade 1 line of semi-synthetic oils.

 

[CT8]

15w-40 or 20w-50. with the proper add package for the hi po motor. Let the oil get to operating temps before running wide open throttle. Not much magic involved.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: CT8
15w-40 or 20w-50. with the proper add package for the hi po motor. Let the oil get to operating temps before running wide open throttle. Not much magic involved.




I assume you are aware that the original poster started this thread 4 years ago eh