bad turbo pics

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Originally Posted By: mcrn
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Quit looking at oil as a way to mitigate the problem.

Water cool the bearing housing and fix the temperature extremes in this application. That's what Volvo did.




Agreed....but why not get the most protection possible out of the oil also? I would use Redline in an application like this.


I've been waiting for the OP to respond before replying myself, but it looks like he's disappeared for the time being - as a B230FT owner, I have a little insight here.

Take a look at this prior post of his:

Originally Posted By: vorteXtreme759
My temps where 250 when hammering the gas I run the turbo at 25psi.


Now, think about this for a second.

Stock: 7 psi
Hi-Po: 10-13 psi*
OP: 25 psi

*This is the factory, high(er)-performance "Turbo +" kit.

Furthermore, remember that the stock and "Turbo +" levels of boost are with a turbocharger that's both oil and water cooled. Without question, good oil helps tremendously, but there comes a point where you have to acknowledge that proper component selection and tuning are paramount.

Take a look at his trunk mounted cooler setup...interesting:
20140330_182608_zps4c4fbef7.jpg
 
Of course a water cooled housing will help. However, a high performance setup, of any sort, will likely run higher temps than the OEM's ever intended.

Coking will continue to be a problem until heat is reduced or the oil is capable of the heat.
 
The trans cooler setup is working great trans temp never goes over 170. 25 psi was the boost at that time. I don't consistently run that much boost i was just beating on my chest. I do tune accordingly to my boost levels & I cool my turbo as well.

I'm using the factory Garrett oil return line the feed line is aftermarket ss but the inner diameter is slightly larger than the oil inlet though the new ebay turbo has a oil restricter built in.. maybe I should look more into the oil restricted hole size.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
That vintage Volvo, which is what, a B21FT, or a B23FT Red Block engine, could have come with an oil cooled or a water cooled bearing housing. If you've fried it, be certain that the replacement turbo has a water cooled bearing housing. From the pics, it looks like yours was just oil cooled...there's a reason that Volvo upgraded the turbo to water cooling. The turbo on my B21FT in my 1985 240 suffered a similar fate. After the upgraded housing, it was rock solid for over 100K miles,


My 1986 Volvo Turbo was also only oil cooled. And on regular dino oil I had no problems for 18+ years and 285,000 Km. [And the people I sold it to had no problems for 5 more years.]

I did worry about it though. I changed the oil every 3 months, and let the turbo cool down after a hard run before shutting it off. I would have preferred a water cooled turbo (they came with the 1986s) but in the end I didn't need one.

Ecotourist
 
Originally Posted By: ecotourist
I would have preferred a water cooled turbo (they came with the 1986s) but in the end I didn't need one.

Ecotourist


Correction - the water cooled turbos came with the 1987s.

Ecotourist
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Take a look at his trunk mounted cooler setup...interesting:
20140330_182608_zps4c4fbef7.jpg



Can someone explain why anyone would install an oil cooler of any form into the trunk of a car, where it isn't exposed to any amount of airflow, ever?

Someone is going to wind up with a dead engine before long.

BC.
 
yes there is a fan 6 amp draw 650 or 750 CFM can't seem to recall which one but the trans temperature don't lie! bTW I'm switching to mobil1 0w40. questions though what makes a good turbo oil ht / hs? Or base oil pao/ester?

I want the best oil for this application but I can't justify the cost of amsoil or redline in this vehicle because I don't run extended drain intervals. Am I making the right choice switching from t6 to mobil1 0w40? Thanks much
 
Someone needs to explain to me how installing the cooler inside the car is more beneficial than in front of the radiator?
 
I did not install it in the trunk to be "more beneficial" but I had no room up front after installing my 3" intercooler. Like I said before the trans temp never goes over 170° now.

Before I seen as high as 250° and that was with the factory radiator cooler and small aux cooler both mounted up front.

As stated above the cooler is mounted in a hole in my trunk and the fan pulls air out of the trunk toward the ground the trunk is vented as well.. But when you asked for someone to explain i assume you meant someone smarter than the guy who has a trunk mounted cooler because that's so different it could never work! Jk but seriously it works just fine
 
Originally Posted By: vorteXtreme759
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Who made the aftermarket turbo? On some of the Mitsubishi Ralliart and Evo pages I subscribe to, some people buy the cheapest turbo on eBay. Nothing good ever happens.

Who made your aftermarket turbo?


it's a china ebay turbo. But my brother also has a volvo with the 2.3 redblock and he only buys Garrett turbos and he has a problem with the hot side bearing aswell he is on his third Garrett turbo In 2 years! When he breaksdown his turbos they look similar.

I think he reported 2000~2300egt full throttle @ 20psi boost and neither of us have any possibility of exhaust restriction. he also has water meth injection And a turbo timer. As for oil flow we both get oil from the factory location but with a stainless braided hose.


Are you sure it's not 1000-1300* on the EGT's? I am not familiar with the Volvo engines but any turbocharged diesel engine I've ever been around 1200-1400* is about the max safe sustained temp. The hard core sled pullers/drag racers will push the envelope up close to 2k degrees but they are running high performance internals and typically tear their engines down every season for inspection (assuming they make it that long)
 
Again, a fully PAO oil will be better. Been that way for as long as I've been building turbo's.

Note: Non scientific data below.

I have a Jag X-Type. Removal of the oil filter gets oil on the forward cat and exhaust clamps. I let it burn off.

Mobil 1 5W-40 TDT is one of the few oils that leaves no residue on the exhaust. M1, 10W-30 "cokes" up on the exhaust.

I'd love to do some real "coking" testing of common oils.
 
Guys. That pic of the fluid cooler is for the tranny,not the engine oil.
And he's got a fan that pumps air thru the radiator,so in reality it's kinda neat considering he had no room for the cooler up front.


OP

M1 0w-40 is a fantastic oil and certainly is more than capable in your application. An oil that meets the Honda turbo spec might work too.
 
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