Took the Amsoil plunge today.

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I've been using Amsoil for years in everything, - engines, transmissions, transfer cases, differentials, lawn mower, 2-cycle engines, you name it.

Recently when changing Amsoil SS 5w/30 (oil weight is in accordance with vehicle's manual) after a 4,816 miles run I noticed some build up, visible at 3 to 5 o'clock. Do you think it's normal? I haven't experienced this before.


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Originally Posted By: Ducman
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
Amsoil does nothing better that I can't get at Walmart for much cheaper with no shipping costs. IE Mobil-1 Extended Performance or Royal Purple. I change my oil when the oil life computer tells me to. Anybody who runs Amsoil for 25K mile service interval in an engine needs to see a psychologist.



Well I agree with the first part about the Walmart comment however if Amsoil really can go 25000 miles why not run it out that far.
Everyone I know who runs extended intervals with Amsoil ends up needing to add oil at some point during the interval. Enough top ups would re-additize the sump and raises the tbn which could very well mean the oil can go that 25000 mile advertised interval.
No way would I run the oil 25000 miles if no top ups though.


Precisely.
Periodical top ups can make quite a big difference to the long term outcome.

I believe, that's why when running a Frantz bypass filter and changing the filter element at the recommended intervals, it's actually possible to push out the OCI's to the >100,000 mile region in some engine applications.

As an example of what's possible.
I have UOA's from one particular engine with a 3.7 l oil capacity, that verify the difference in the oil's reserve with a single small 200 ml top up over a given OCI, and with a total of 3x larger top up quantity over the same OCI.
The actual difference between the UOA's is staggering in terms of the oils life span.



Those franz filter systems are awesome. A friend of mine has been running one since the mid nineties on his cummins and when he trades in the truck he gets it installed on the new one he buys.
He gets uoa done and his oci tend to be every 50000 miles or so.
He changes the TP roll every 10000 miles and tops up the system.
With that kind of system the oil change interval could almost go indefinitely.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
That looks like condensation build up to me, is that a short tripper?


15 miles each way about 70% of the time, the remaining 30% under 3 mile trips. Interesting point, thank you. I'll have to look up how moisture can interact with oil/oil vapor to produce something that looks like a soft varnish. Some kind of hydrolysis reaction I suppose.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Ducman
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
Amsoil does nothing better that I can't get at Walmart for much cheaper with no shipping costs. IE Mobil-1 Extended Performance or Royal Purple. I change my oil when the oil life computer tells me to. Anybody who runs Amsoil for 25K mile service interval in an engine needs to see a psychologist.



Well I agree with the first part about the Walmart comment however if Amsoil really can go 25000 miles why not run it out that far.
Everyone I know who runs extended intervals with Amsoil ends up needing to add oil at some point during the interval. Enough top ups would re-additize the sump and raises the tbn which could very well mean the oil can go that 25000 mile advertised interval.
No way would I run the oil 25000 miles if no top ups though.


Precisely.
Periodical top ups can make quite a big difference to the long term outcome.

I believe, that's why when running a Frantz bypass filter and changing the filter element at the recommended intervals, it's actually possible to push out the OCI's to the >100,000 mile region in some engine applications.

As an example of what's possible.
I have UOA's from one particular engine with a 3.7 l oil capacity, that verify the difference in the oil's reserve with a single small 200 ml top up over a given OCI, and with a total of 3x larger top up quantity over the same OCI.
The actual difference between the UOA's is staggering in terms of the oils life span.



Those franz filter systems are awesome. A friend of mine has been running one since the mid nineties on his cummins and when he trades in the truck he gets it installed on the new one he buys.
He gets uoa done and his oci tend to be every 50000 miles or so.
He changes the TP roll every 10000 miles and tops up the system.
With that kind of system the oil change interval could almost go indefinitely.


Yes, it could almost go indefinitely when supported by UOA's.
I think the only thing one would have to be concerned about would be the relationship between TAN and TBN in the longer term.

If I remember correctly.
They used to recommend changing the TP filter element every 2000 kms.

Just for giggles, I did an experiment with an old worn out/badly neglected 4.1 litre 6 cylinder passenger car engine, that was very seriously sludged back in the mid 80's, just before a full rebuild.
In some parts of the engine the sludge was actually about 3/4" thick before the rebuild.

I'd often seen the filters at the car shows, and was always curious as to how good they really were. Or whether it was snake oil stuff.
I figured the test engine was a good candidate to find out more about its effectiveness.

I did an oil change on the engine and refilled with some cheapo 15w-40 diesel engine oil and fitted the Frantz filter.
I drove the car as usual(which was mercilessly) for about another 1000 kms before yanking the engine out to rebuild it.

The difference on tear down was absolutely mind blowing, as there was virtually no sludge to be found in even the most far flung and remote regions of the engine where there was typically very little oil flow.

That result opened my eyes up to possibilities of using a bypass oil filter system of some description.
Needles to say I consider a significant part of the experiment was a success.

Seeing pics posted on this good forum of engines which people consider to be sludged.
I think to myself all they need to do is fit a Frantz filter and change the element at regular intervals then top off the oil level as required.
Problem solved.
 
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The only thing that makes me wary about Amsoil SS engine oil is that it's not API certified, while XL and OE are. I mean, why would a company not make its flagship oil API certified while going through a certification process for their two lower tier XL and OE oils? Could there be something that would make the SS not certifiable?

I never thought about it until I experienced oil seepage from under the timing chain plate cover of the engine. Then I also observed that soft varnish build up picture of which I posted earlier.

Bottom line, I switched to Pennzoil Platinum on my last oil change and tightened the bolts holding the cover. The area is bone dry now. However, it's not possible to tell what did the trick, - the new oil, the tightening or both.

Finally, and courtesy of a UOA lab which provided data, statistical analysis showed Amsoil engine oil not outperforming PP in terms of iron wear. Going to Walmart and picking up PP vs ordering Amsoil online and paying for shipping suddenly became a no-brainer. Here are details for those interested.

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My statistics are weak, but isn't a difference of .000021 ppm per mile rather insignificant?

2.1 parts per million over 100,000 miles....
 
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Originally Posted By: Kuato
My statistics are weak, but isn't a difference of .000021 ppm per mile rather insignificant?

2.1 parts per million over 100,000 miles....



Indeed, Amsoil (0.001311 ppm/mile) - Pennzoil (0.001290) = 0.000021 ppm/mile x 100K miles = 2.1 ppm. That's why Amsoil and Pennzoil are in the same category and it was not possible to prove any statistical significance when sample variances were taken into account.

When I said no-brainer I meant the price you pay for the same quality oil i.e. oil + shipping (Amsoil) vs Pennzoil at Walmart. I've just checked my records and last case of Amsoil with shipping cost me $101.55 before tax with a preferred customer account. At local Walmart 5qt Pennzoil Platinum runs at $22.66, hence 1case (12qts) equivalent of PP is $22.66 * 12/5 = $54.38, figure half of what Amsoil costs. And PP is API Certified, and exceeds Chrysler's MS-6395 spec officially stated on the bottle. Not the "recommended" statement Amsoil is making.
 
those 3.1 engines run great on anything the only thing you need to watch out for on some of them is the intake gaskets and if they go it don't matter what oil you have, it Must be changed very often until a repair is made. i personally would never pay that much for oil. It's probably good stuff but in any case if it gets antifreeze or other things in it the oil is done. I have been in the engine business for years and found if you change your oil when you are supposed to and use the stuff that the engine company tells you to your engine will out last the car in most cases
 
Originally Posted By: 340_Magnum
According to Amsoil's site, the Signature Series oils meet API SN and ILSAC GF-5.


Definitely, no argument there, I saw the writing on the website myself. I just hope they'll get SS officially certified like they had done with XL and OE, and put a proof of that on the bottle, instead of the self made "guarantee" stamp.

Even the boutique Royal Purple oil is officially certified and on the shelf of my local Walmart. If it cost money, which it does, to get certified, then what can I say? We all know to make money you need to spend money. Imagine if Amsoil could be bought at Walmart or other local retailer. That would be a win-win.
 
Last I checked Amsoil met API AND Dexos 1 certifications.

Which Amsoil and Pennzoil oils were used in that test? It just says Amsoil and Pennzoil. It doesn't say which blend i.e. Amsoil Signature Series, OE, XL, Pennzoil Ultra orUltra Platinum. How are you supposed to know which oils were better than Mobil 1 or GTX?
 
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Originally Posted By: davison0976
Indeed...

When I said no-brainer I meant the price you pay for the same quality oil i.e. oil + shipping (Amsoil) vs Pennzoil at Walmart. I've just checked my records and last case of Amsoil with shipping cost me $101.55 before tax with a preferred customer account. At local Walmart 5qt Pennzoil Platinum runs at $22.66, hence 1case (12qts) equivalent of PP is $22.66 * 12/5 = $54.38, figure half of what Amsoil costs. And PP is API Certified, and exceeds Chrysler's MS-6395 spec officially stated on the bottle. Not the "recommended" statement Amsoil is making.


Dollar wise yep I agree, if you're using the same OCI for both oils.
 
It is true that Amsoil doesn't necessarily stand out from the mass-market synthetic crowd when looking at UOAs posted here, and it is more expensive.

But, if you have a DI engine and are worried about intake valve deposits, the low Noack of Amsoil SS may be attractive enough to justify the price delta.
 
If I had a DI engine and was worried about intake deposits, I would do like I have done to my engine and what others are doing to DI engines... put on a PCV oil catch system to catch most of the crud that comes thru there and leaves all those deposits in the intake. That would do more to help things than some boutique oil would. While low NOACK is an important consideration, even the best PCV system will allow misted oil and such to be sucked up into the PCV line and migrate to the intake. It has nothing to do with the oil itself.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Catch cans don't prevent the deposits.


yep, Here and other places they are frequently held up as the end all be all fix for all things PVC related.

Of course since virtually nobody fits one OEM there are only 53 bazillion cars out there without one.

Wonder how they all keep running?
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
those 3.1 engines run great on anything the only thing you need to watch out for on some of them is the intake gaskets and if they go it don't matter what oil you have, it Must be changed very often until a repair is made. i personally would never pay that much for oil. It's probably good stuff but in any case if it gets antifreeze or other things in it the oil is done. I have been in the engine business for years and found if you change your oil when you are supposed to and use the stuff that the engine company tells you to your engine will out last the car in most cases
Yes, I just replaced the intake gaskets on my 3.1 about a month ago. I used Fel Pro gaskets when they were replaced.
 
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Amsoil is for people that want to pay twice the price to be seen as different
That's a very broad and inaccurate stereotype. I tried Amsoil because of its quality reputation. I couldn't care less about being seen as different.
 
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