Cost to service drum brakes?

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: exranger06
Well, that's definitely not normal, and not typical for drum brakes.

I do agree with you on fuel injection though. I hate carbs.


This is the first time I have ever done them myself. I know they were done correctly as I did it myself.

I'll be interested to see if they work. The backing plates on the new axle are EXTREMELY rusty. But they are greased so we'll see.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Trav

* Adjust the star wheel until the drums go on snug not tight. Install a couple of lug nuts to temporarily secure the drums then click the star wheel with a spoon or screwdriver until there is an equal slight amount of drag on the drums. Reinstall the plugs.


Would that be the spoon I use to eat my corn flakes in the morning, or should I use a brake spoon?

 

[Trav]

I usually use a tea spoon. LOL

 

[Merkava_4]

I have a couple of tool recommendations for you guys. These are both brake spring tools.

This first one is for removing and installing the springs that hook onto the center post: BT11

This second tool is a flip socket for the shoe hold down springs and what you do is connect it onto a 1/4-drive spin handle to make it a complete tool. It takes the place of two tools in case you don't know exactly which size hold down spring tool you need: S6118A

As far as brake spoons go, that's not quite as critical brand-wise. I use either a K-D Tools Part #287 or Part #295.

 

[itguy08]

I didn't find the drums too complicated on the wife's Escape. Take your time and use the other for reference. At 148k the rears work just fine so if yours are not working you did it wrong.

Only thing I learned was NEVER mail order drums. Arrived and one (or both) were out of round and it was a PITA to find a place to turn them around here.

I didn't mind the carb in my 86 Mustang. You adjusted the choke 2x, once in fall and once in spring. You then pushed the gas to the floor, turned the key and she would start right up. Race to 2500 RPM, let it sit there, tap the gas and off you went. Even in the coldest of winters here in PA. If it was way cold you let it warm up a second or it would sputter the first couple times.

Aah, I miss that car. Gutless but reliable!

 

[Lubener]

All good advice. After cleaning the backing plate, I put a thin layer of grease on the backing plate where the shoes contact it.When done properly, you should be able to grab the shoes at 9 and 3 o'clock push back and forth and they should pivot from the top anchoring pin.Not that difficult of a job if you do one at a time.I doubt that you will be able to break the steel line loose without twisting the brake line. Bleeder screws often snap off, so be prepaired if you overhaul the existing ones.

 

[badtlc]

My local shops charge $20 to clean, inspect and adjust my rear drum brakes.

I have never had to replace any so I cannot comment on that price.

 

[SS1970chrysler]

Most of my cars (past and present) have drums and a few have 4-wheel drum brakes. They're not that hard to do once you get used to working with the springs. I won't say they're easier than discs, but easier than some discs. (70's Ford products come to mind) I've found it's good to rebuild or replace the wheel cylinders each time the shoes get replaced. Also, to clean and oil the brake cables and adjuster assembly goes a long way.
I just use slip-joint pliers, a screwdriver, and a spring tool for the upper return springs.

 

[Vikas]

This brings up my favorite question! Why do manufacturers still put drum brakes in the back on some vehicles? Do they have a warehouse full of them sitting somewhere? Or is it because the screw up done by Nissan on its implementation of the cable actuated parking brake directly on the caliper which has soured other manufacturer from trying that approach and have to resort to disk+drums on the rear?

 

[JustinH]

The drum brake is actually a better setup in rusty areas.

Everything is enclosed and won't rot as fast.

That has been my experience.

I only see drums on economy cars now.

 

[eljefino]

Drums don't drag slightly when off like discs and they can fit the e-brake stuff in easily.

We need discs on an axle because they wipe water off themselves quickly after going through a puddle. But it seems like the fronts are often enough.

My mazda b2000 had huge drums, they filled the rear wheels pretty much, and were well engineered. Light years away from the 9" drums you see through cavalier/ sunfire 16" rims.

Though my FIL has rear discs on his 1 ton GMC van.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
I just use slip-joint pliers, a screwdriver, and a spring tool for the upper return springs.


Better you than me. I won't work on cars without the correct tools.

The word improvise is a bad word in my book.

 

[chestand]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Well, that's definitely not normal, and not typical for drum brakes.

I do agree with you on fuel injection though. I hate carbs.


This is the first time I have ever done them myself. I know they were done correctly as I did it myself.

I'll be interested to see if they work. The backing plates on the new axle are EXTREMELY rusty. But they are greased so we'll see.


Often, your statements don't make sense. Earlier you stated that drum brakes, along with timing belts are a "third world cost cutting measure". I would imagine that the cost to manufacture drum brakes is at least as much as the cost of disks if for not other reason than the number of parts involved. And all drum brakes self destruct at 100k? What? I've changed one set of rear brake shoes on my 95 Toyota truck and it has 460k on it.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
This brings up my favorite question! Why do manufacturers still put drum brakes in the back on some vehicles? Do they have a warehouse full of them sitting somewhere? Or is it because the screw up done by Nissan on its implementation of the cable actuated parking brake directly on the caliper which has soured other manufacturer from trying that approach and have to resort to disk+drums on the rear?


Its cheaper, no other reason. One set of shoes takes care of the braking and e brake, not drum in hat with extra shoes or complex calipers.
Many cars use or have used calipers with an e brake mechanism long before Nissan. Subaru. GM, VW, Honda/Acura and lots of others.
Some are better than others, corrosion being the major issue.

 

[supton]

My vintage VW uses rear disc with the caliper doing parking brake too. Corrosion is its downfall; seems like 100-150k is the best it can do (3-5 years?) before these $100 calipers need replacement. OTOH I've never needed to adjust the parking brake, the brakes always work, and it's simple to R&R the setup--just replace everything and bleed the brakes.