99 Malibu 2.4l long crank time to sometime start

[Bud_One]

I also found this link... I've never done this , but it looks like a common enough issue that there is a work around that people have found out.

http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/

 

[Virtuoso]

Originally Posted By: Arctic388
I'm pretty sure I have found problem.

That $&*(%$=^*'"":=-+"'
When it is on it won't start. When it's off it fires right up.

I never knew it had the worthless theft carp on it. How do I fix that?


Yep, the legendary Passlock system.

I had a '99 Malibu as well. I really loved that car... and this problem was my biggest complaint about that vehicle. It would hit me every so often. Usually what would happen is everything is fine.. I go to start the car, and it would *almost* fire right up, but something amiss would trigger that Passlock system, it would cut fuel/spark and the theft light would flash for ten minutes.

After that ten minutes, generally I would be able to start the car. There were a couple times I couldn't and it would re-activate.

Usually if I had a new key cut it wouldn't happen again for 6-9 months. Eventually I took some spray lubricant of some sort and shot it right into the ignition key hole. I don't remember having a problem with it after that, honestly.

But the real fix is a new key cylinder and ignition key itself, IMHO.

 

[Silverado12]

I had an Impala that had the intermittent Passlock issue, and the dealer cleaned connections and did something to the computer and it worked fine until I traded it. Cost 100 bucks at dealer.

 

[Arctic388]

I plan to run this car until the wheels literally fall off. it serves it purpose well.

I got a letter from GM saying the ignition was part of the recall a few weeks ago but never thought if the key wears down it would crnak and not start.

does anyone know what is fixed with the recall? is it a new switch?

 

[Silverado12]

BTW my problem was the car wouldn't do anything for about 10-15 minutes if it was acting up. Turn the key and nothing would happen just like a dead battery.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: Bud_One
I also found this link... I've never done this , but it looks like a common enough issue that there is a work around that people have found out.

http://www.bergerweb.net/AleroSecurity/



I cannot recommend this procedure enough. Got my BILs 04 malibu up and running.

 

[Arctic388]

right now i am just using the second key that i have. I have been using the first key and it starts it about 80% of the time, the other times i just swap to my second key and it starts every time. I havent had a chance to find out about switch recall yet.

the thing that is really irritating me now is the gas gauge is not working correctly. when i first got it i filled it up it took 4 miles for it to go from 1/4 to full. and then in less than 100 miles it has fluctuated around to 3/4 and down under 1/2 then i filled up again, 8 gallons used, and not even 50 miles it hovers down to 3/4. i was really hoping the gauge would have been correct with new pump.

 

[Arctic388]

update since last post. I took my 99 Malibu to the dealership to diagnose an issue. it takes multiple cranks to start which i was tolerating but then it started dieing as i as driving and that was just dangerous so i broke down and took it to them. the first day they call and want $590 to change coil cover, coils, spark plugs and boots. i had just changed one coil, spark plug and boots less than 11k ago so i ordered a coil cover ($43.00 compared to there $134) and i already had another coil i had bought for $24.00 vs them wanting $89.00 each so i took the parts to them and they call and say that didnt correct issue { i knew it wouldn't } then they want $480 for a ignition module so i tell them i need a part # and i ordered it for $115.00 so i took this to them and they call me and say the module i bought is bad. so at this point i get a little vocal and voice my opinion cause i think its the ignition switch pass lock [censored] that is bad but then they tell me he put a known good module on it and it fired right up and its not the switch bad. so. . . . i tell them to go ahead and put on their expensive module and if it will start 20 times without missing a lick i will pay them extra for it. she says ok and she would call me when its ready. all day no call. the next day no call so i call and guess what. she says something is still wrong. she thanked me for asking them to start it 20 times because their is still something wrong and they cant figure it out. then she says "but he is sure its not the ignition switch"
finally 2 days later they give me a call and say it is starting every time. supposedly they ordered a new module and put in on. so i go and get it and it starts every time so far.

do i believe that 3 ignition modules were bad. nope.

when i ordered the module i also ordered the crank position sensor cause i was sure that's what they would ask for next. i think when they put it in it corrected issue.

of course there are no notes on bill i got. they charged me $297.50 labor and $304.42 for parts.

then $19.29 for freight and $20.00 environmental fee (she said this was any lubes or rags they use)

so ended up total $700.32 which is less than half what it could have been if i didn't supply my own stuff and being that it has been 15 years since that car has been to a dealership for repairs it wasn't to bad. i know i will never use that place ever again.

 

[The_Eric]

Intermittent issues like that can be a bear to diagnose, especially for a dealership/indy shop who needs to keep moving. It really encourages throwing of parts- just like you saw. The mech needs to stay the course and continue with a systematic approach (which they didn't appear to do).

Glad you got it worked out!

 

[Arctic388]

drove car home didnt really notice issues

next morning on start up the idle bounces from 1100 - 2000 RPM on its own. check engine light stating unexpected high idle. while driving it when i go to stop it just revs above 1700 and wants to pull me through stop. when i am driving i can put it in neutral and the revs bounce constantly and my cruise control doesn't work anymore. also my brake and ABS light will flash randomly then go off. also before they touched it when i was driving at normal speed and let off gas pedal it would coast smoothly. now its like the torque converter is locked up and when i let off pedal the whole car suddenly jerks and slows.

i have had this car for 15 years and it has never had any problems until i let them touch it one time. it will never be right again.

 

[Arctic388]

took off intake duct and found a hose behind throttle body that was not reattached when they put it back together. once i reconnected that it idles fine and cruise works and not more hard shifting.

all that from one hose not being reconnected.