How long did you go on factory fill?

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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Oily_hair
I never knew that I was killing my vehicles and that the dealers, manufactures and engineers have formed a conspiracy to destroy our cars.


Wow, what a logical and rationally reasoned argument...congratulations.

Part of selling cars is marketting.

When my Brother's company were looking at vehicles, they looked at Toyotas and the like, but bought Mitsubishi diesels because:
a) they didn't have a 1,000km service;
b) didn't have a "severe service" 5,000km regime, but "regular" services at 15,000km;
c) that was with regular dino oils; and
d) had 100,000km powertrain warranties...

It was all about marketting and normal distribution of failures...and consumers wanting to feel that not doing things is better than doing them.

Nearly every piece of industrial equipment I'v ever installed has a short initial OCI/service, if it doesn't have a specific flushing regime that may take days or weeks before first turning the shaft.

There's nothing "optimum" (nor even magic) about a regular OCI for the very first interval on a new car...it's marketting.

And it obviously works, as you are creating conspiracy strawmen in your defence of it.




No kidding.

Let's address this leveraged wear metals at break in and their abrasive ness. Are we to believe those abrasive particulate isn't being filtered out and if it is then running a longer first interval is smarter because the filter loads fast and thereby filters better which keeps that particulate out of the engine itself,and when you drain the factory fill you also wash out all that extremely high moly assembly lube which I'd rather try to keep in as long as possible.

I've learned that Honda doesn't use a special break in oil,that high moly from the factory fill is from the assembly lubes used.
I've got friends in Allston that work for Honda and they made inquiries to power train.
Do no special break in oil,just special assembly lubes which are why the oil has such a high level of friction modifiers.

And let's address that post about pouring 1000 mile oil back into the dump. Sure it'll look ugly but that's the assembly lubes and greases making it look that way.

When I put the new cams and 106 kit on my harley I fell for the early change ideas but I kept the same filter and my oil looked great,no metallic flecks and pretty much clear,as 100 mile oil should look so after seeing with my own eyes I'm drifting over to the leave it alone camp now.
Sure an engine is shredding metal when new but I saw no evidence of that metal in the drained oil,the filter once cut open was sparkling though but the oil looked like oil to me.
 
My wife bought a new MY 2005 Ford Explorer 4.6 V-8 in July of 2005. It was manufactured in October of 2004. We're in northern NJ, where it's cold and snowy. They admitted to constantly starting and moving the Explorer within their lot for the 8 to 9 months they had it before my wife bought it. In fact they killed the factory battery, we got a new one. They agreed to change the factory fill upon purchase. After that it was changed every 5,000 miles, approximately 3ish months while in warranty for 75,000 miles. After that it's been every 9,000+/- or 6 months approximately. At 160,000 miles now it burns no oil and runs like a champ. For the first 75,000 miles it got Motorcraft 5W-20 oil and filter. After that it got various synthetic oils and filters.

Whimsey
 
I've always gone by the manual. My Jetta still has its original camshaft after 300kmiles, but did break a turbo at 249k (snapped the shaft) and now seems to blow blue on a cold start (i'm starting to fear loss of compression). My Saturn was doing like 2kmiles/qt after 100k--but I did 3k OCI's on bulk dino (dealership and then iffy lube). My Toyota's are at 80&90kmiles and don't seem to use oil though. With any luck I'll get rid of them around 200k and hopefully with no issues.

I have to wonder how many people here are wringing their hands about when to do the first change when they have no plans to drive past 150k...
 
2013 Odyssey with VCM - I changed the FF at 5k miles and the MM was at 30%. I would have had no problem letting the MM go to the 15% mark and change it then, had it not been for the VCM. I'm at 17k miles now and did OCs at 10k, and 16.4k miles, the first being another 5k and the latter according to the MM at 15%.

I'll just stick with the MM from now on as with our duty cycle it will trigger at 6-6.5k miles and that's fine by me. Had our usage pattern caused the MM to go off at 8 or 9k miles, I would have stuck with the 5k changes.

Does the 2.4 have VCM?
 
We didn't buy our CR-V new, but I have all of the OP's service records. And the FF was changed at or around 7,000 miles...whenever the MM told them to.

Myself, I'd probably have changed it at 5k, only because I do my maintenance at 5k mile intervals (oil/filter/tire rotation) to keep it easy. Maybe one day, I'll downgrade and maintain a car by the book.

Nah...probably not...
 
First week I drove it home. Started stewardship with 12 miles on its clock so inside of a hundred miles. Almost a year after its build date, though.

Machining debris, casting sand, lint, errant cigarette butts and low flying insects all flushed away.
Got ~245,000 miles from our previous never opened GM V8 long block before donating to charity.

‘Learned’ the early and often fill and drain regimen/scheduling from fellow hot rodders back in the day.
Hasn’t yet failed to deliver long and happy lives from my engines. And it’s cheap insurance imho. ymmv

Absolutely necessary for the non-anal retentive? No. Does doing so make me feel good? Indeed.
 
splinter,
I agree...the change early isn't due to parts machining in...nobody would want their careful shapes and finishes to be rounded off approximations during run-in, it's to flush stuff that has no reason for being in an engine.
 
Here is another challenge;

I'll change the oil on my next new vehicle at 1,000 miles
and send it to anyone who thinks it is good, and they can pour
it into their new car or truck engine.

How much would it cost to send 2 gallons of oil to Richmond VA?
 
I've never owned a brand new car, but If I did I'd drain the FF as soon as I got home then do drain & fills at 100, 200, 500, 750 & 1000 for my own peace of mind, then onto a 5k schedule starting at 5k.
 
Originally Posted By: used_0il
I'll change the oil on my next new vehicle at 1,000 miles and send it to anyone who thinks it is good, and they can pour it into their new car or truck engine.


If you fall back on this logic, then no oil change you ever perform was done early enough. So you change your FF at 1,000 miles. Okay, fine. When's your next oil change? 5,000 miles? Would you pour it back in? No? Then it's not suitable lubricant for the engine; you waited too long. 3,000 miles? Would you pour it back in? No? Then it's not suitable lubricant for the engine; you waited too long.

If you think about it, your logic will spin you in circles. On the one hand, if you'd use the oil again, then why are you changing it so soon? And on the other, if you wouldn't use the oil again, then it shouldn't be in your engine to begin with; why'd you wait so long. Where do you draw the line in the sand between "you changed it too early" and "you changed it too late"?

The only "right" answer to this question is to change the FF when you are personally comfortable doing it. To some people, that may be when the MM or OLM tells them to do it. And the engine will outlast their ownership. To others, that may be as soon as they get the car home. And the engine will outlast their ownership, too.

Do what you like; sleep well at night.
 
Come on, you take all the fun out of this discussion by being logical! You should know that this is religion and logic does not play a role here.
 
If I remember correctly, I changed factory fill at approximately 1500 miles courtesy of dealer complimentary.

Then had another complimentary change before I transitioned to full synthetic at 7K miles or there abouts.

The second was overkill but dealer was using dino oil at the time and I'd been using synthetic for many years.
 
It kind of depends on how long the vehicle was on the lot. Some of my recent new ones have been on the lot for quite some time. Thus, I changed at ~1500 mi. I remember when I test drove my '10 MKZ, the oil change indicator came on. The car was on the lot for about a year, and had 700 miles on. I changed it the weekend I brought it home.
 
Here is logic;
If I am wealthy enough to afford new vehicles, put $250.00 worth of ammo
through a .338 Lapua in one day and own XXX houses......
The last thing I'm going to do is pour used oil back into an engine.

But, if anyone thinks that recycling 1,000 mile old oil is waste of money and resources,
I'll gladly send them the used oil and they can pour it into their new car or truck.

Quite the opposite of how some members are reading the challenge.
After looking at the oil with only 1,000 miles on it, I'm through with it.

Never have I said that I would pour used oil back into the engine it just came out of.

The hard part is coming up with new material to entertain you folks.

My posts are original.
 
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