Nothing very difficult about drum brakes. When i first started in the business drums front and rear were still common on many used cars.
The disc equipped cars were almost exclusively up front (Corvette and a few other sport cars were an exception) and used rear drums.
There are 2 common pitfalls i see on older vehicles with rear drums, rotten e brake cables and rounded off fittings or broken likes trying to remove the line from the wheel cylinder.
I usually rebuild the cylinders right on the car if the lines are looking really evil. Very easy and very cheap and just as good as result without messing around with 22 yr old lines. Rock has the kits for a buck and change per wheel.
This is not a hack repair, it is accepted industry standard, two things about this, make sure the bleeder is free and you will need a cheap brake hone like this one.
You may be able to rent this and a brake service set from AZ or AA for nothing.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-10000-Brake-Cylinder-Hone/dp/B0002SQUG8
If i were doing this job this is how i would do it..
* remove the drums and assess the condition of the following parts. Brake cable, lines and backing plate for rot.
To remove the drums you may need to back the self adjuster off. Remove the rubber access plug from the rear Use a longer thin screwdriver to push the adjuster lever off the star wheel and use another stubby screwdriver or a brake spoon to turn the star wheel.
Turning the wheel upward should be loosening but check by turning the drum slightly after a few cranks if its getting tighter go the other way.
If the backing plate is crispy you will need a new one, if the line rusted badly consider cylinder rebuild. brake cables should move freely, be rust free without any fraying.
* Measure the drum. This car used either 9x1.5" or 11x2" drums. You will need the correct size drums and shoes.
* At this point spray the line and bleeder with penetrating fluid and let it sit for an hour.
Put a tight fitting wrench or 6 point socket on the bleeder and tap the wrench or ratchet with a hammer in a counter clockwise direction, lots of light taps. If it breaks free just tighten it again until you do the job. If it wont budge try soaking it over night and repeat.
If it still wont budge replace the cylinder. This is best done by removing the mounting bolts and holding the line with a flair nut wrench while you turn the cylinder enough to crack the line loose. Do this when you do the job.
* Order the parts. Drums, shoes, adjusters with kit, mounting hardware, cylinders/kits,
Cables if needed (i usually do them unless the old ones are pristine), i don't want to go back in later to do them, stay clear of no name relines.
* With the car on stands remove the drums and start stripping one side only, take a picture. Remember the self adjuster may be be on the opposite side of the shoes on the other side.
Start by closing the star wheel completely and remove it and the spring above it, note the direction of the spring, it will have a long and short side.
Remove the long springs holding the shoes to the top pin then lastly the hold down springs and retainers (these are half turn).
Lay the parts out exactly as you took them apart, noting the thread of the star wheel (left or right hand thread).
The parking brake lever will be attached to the rear shoe either by a pin with horseshoe clip or a hook in, remove it from the shoe. Now replace the cable if need be.
* Clean the backing plate with brake cleaner.
* Rebuilt or replace the cylinder. Note the slotted slugs that go into the cylinder, some have a wider slot for the e brake lever as well as the shoe.
* Attach the brake cable to the lever if removed otherwise attach the lever to the shoe. Short shoe if there is one always goes to the front.
* Uses a little brake grease on the mounting points of the backing plate, make sure you have any hardware for the adjuster mounted, its usually just a slide for the cable mounted under the hold down spring.
* Attach the shoes to the plate with the hold down springs.
* I usually attach the long upper springs first but depending on access you may want to do the lower and star wheel first.
* Pay careful attention to the location of the adjuster mounting behind the upper spring and down at the star wheel. before installing the springs on the pin.
* Install the star wheel and spring, you can use a little never seize on the threads and cap if you want.
* The shoes will be moving all over the place as you attach the springs, once its all together center them and check the operation of the star wheel adjuster by pushing the cable to make sure it is moving the wheel.
* Do not check the e brake or try to bleed the brakes at this point do the other side, when complete.
* Adjust the star wheel until the drums go on snug not tight. Install a couple of lug nuts to temporarily secure the drums then click the star wheel with a spoon or screwdriver until there is an equal slight amount of drag on the drums. Reinstall the plugs.
* Check the e brake operation and adjust in necessary then bleed the brakes.
I didn't read the whole thread. I'm sure all these points were covered by someone.
This is just another long winded post. LOL
