Please Guide Me on Paint Maintenance

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Meh. If it really is just waxed, I would defer for awhile. It may not be a really high quality job, but the wax is on there doing its job protecting. After a couple of months it will be that much easier to take off the wax. In the meantime, spend your time doing the overlooked maintenance chores instead.

When I got ready to give it a going over, I would give it a really careful wash, with microfiber mitt, using quality car wash. I would do another with rinseless car wash. I like the "Garry Dean" method. If it needs an abrasive polish, by all means do so, but I wouldn't just automatically do that. Then I would claybar or nanoskin it. Then I would give it a good sealant coat with one of the better quality waxes/sealants Collinite, Duragloss two part system, Klasse Twins, Meguire's Ultimate. You can put a beauty wax on top, but I've usually had it by then. You might instead spray a shiny spray wax on it, Duragloss Aquawax works pretty well and doesn't take too long. A lot of people like the Optimum spray wax.

After that, I do rinseless washes every week or two. You can do that at night in your garage, so that's a big chunk of your weekened you saved. Spritz that with the spray wax and you are good for another week or two.

The results are good and the time committment is overall pretty reasonable.
 
Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
I would give it a really careful wash, with microfiber mitt, using quality car wash. I would do another with rinseless car wash. I like the "Garry Dean" method. If it needs an abrasive polish, by all means do so, but I wouldn't just automatically do that. Then I would claybar or nanoskin it.



Why would you waste the time to do a second wash with a rinseless wash? There is no point. Do the job properly with the conventional wash and there is nothing further needed.

Also, you would clay the car before polishing it, not after.
 
Originally Posted By: Zeus33
Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
I would give it a really careful wash, with microfiber mitt, using quality car wash. I would do another with rinseless car wash. I like the "Garry Dean" method. If it needs an abrasive polish, by all means do so, but I wouldn't just automatically do that. Then I would claybar or nanoskin it.



Why would you waste the time to do a second wash with a rinseless wash? There is no point. Do the job properly with the conventional wash and there is nothing further needed.

Also, you would clay the car before polishing it, not after.


Why? Conservatism. Missing a spot is probably the best way to mess up your overall job. For something I do three times per year, its worth it.
 
Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
Originally Posted By: Zeus33
Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
I would give it a really careful wash, with microfiber mitt, using quality car wash. I would do another with rinseless car wash. I like the "Garry Dean" method. If it needs an abrasive polish, by all means do so, but I wouldn't just automatically do that. Then I would claybar or nanoskin it.



Why would you waste the time to do a second wash with a rinseless wash? There is no point. Do the job properly with the conventional wash and there is nothing further needed.

Also, you would clay the car before polishing it, not after.


Why? Conservatism. Missing a spot is probably the best way to mess up your overall job. For something I do three times per year, its worth it.


Just remember - the more contact you have with the paint, the more likely that you will inflict defects.
 
Yup-clay bar-and yes, a guy can try different things without doing the whole car-like a spot area on a lower side panel-rather say, than the hood!see what works-or doesn't. I didn't think it was ok for folks with German marque cars to work on them themselves tho!
 
Mud,

Slightly off-topic:

When you post a picture of your results on the 'Benz, kindly post a picture of your '57 Chevy, too.

What kind of detailing routine, if any, do you use on THAT bad boy?
 
LOL I was in the auto parts getting a filter wrench for the car, the guy looked at me like I was crazy working on "this kind" of car. It's still under warranty, I'll take advantage of that of course, but I just like being able to do my own work when feasible.

I'll only do a small less-visible area first to see how it goes and will be happy to follow up on results.

The 57 is kept indoors when not being driven and I try to avoid taking it in bad weather, so it's pretty pampered. Once a year I go over it with McGuires cleaner/wax, in between I use Wet Paint Glaze to keep it shiny. I built the car 1985-1990, painted in 1987, paint is still in good shape.

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Here's what Mr. UPS brought me yesterday, I'll give it a shot this weekend.
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I got out there this morning and got the car done - the results exceeded my expectations
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I know these pics are pretty much typical "shiny car" pics but wanted to show the end product.

I washed it with the McGuires Ultimate wash, then tried a test panel with the claybar with optimum no-rinse as lube, followed by the collinite. Test panel turned out good so on the to the rest of the car.
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Interior - I used the Aerospace 303 on all surfaces and seats. Perfect end result of clean and non-slick surfaces, very nice.
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I used a light touch with the clay bar, just enough to get the surface smooth. Every surface had an initial grit feel to it, within a few strokes I could tell the clay bar was doing its job. Then I dried the surface and applied the collinite. I really liked this wax, I noticed that after it dried to haze, it had some "tooth" to it, which I took to be that it had really gotten into the freshly cleaned surface. I used a cotton towel to take the first haze off, then followed with microfiber towel for the final polish.
Surface is buttery-smooth, feels clean and like a freshly waxed new paint job. Color depth is great, the micro-flake in the paint really pops. Thank you very much for the great suggestions, I could not be more pleased, looks like a brand new car.
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I assume that next wash (Optimum no-rinse) is followed by collinite again to keep the finish?
 
Only if you wait six months to wash it.

I have found that 845 gives me an easy six to eight months of durability which is great for a wax. I see no reason to have to re-apply the 845 after each washing.

I'm glad the clay bar worked for you.

An unsolicited suggestion for a few months from now would be to wash, clay, then use Pinnacle's Advanced Finishing Polish (or something similar), followed by the Collinite 845. Your paint will appreciate the polish and the 845 will protect your polishing result.

While the 'Benz looks good, Mud, I still have to give two thumbs up to the '57 Chevy!
 
LOL, thanks
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My only question is there a possibility of overdoing it with the clay bar if I use it every few months? In my head I regard the clay as being maybe once a year or more depending on how much gunk gets into that topcoat. Provided I keep up with wash/wax of course.
 
Mud, do the sandwich bag or cellophane wrapper test: Slides over finish smoothly without snagging - skip the clay bar. I guess you can abrade the finish if you don't use enough lubricant while clay baring. I normally do it prior to the spring and fall wax treatment on our vehicles.
 
Thanks Bear, I had done that bag test prior to Saturday's entertainment,
Before - lots of snagging, after - like butter
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That's good check though.
Going to follow up next with the truck.
 
Originally Posted By: Mud
..Every surface had an initial grit feel to it, within a few strokes I could tell the clay bar was doing its job..


Nice...your M-B looks great.

Well done!
 
Thank you, it's always a nice feeling to be in a freshly detailed vehicle.

PS - ditto on the M1 0W40
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Originally Posted By: Mud
LOL, thanks
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My only question is there a possibility of overdoing it with the clay bar if I use it every few months? In my head I regard the clay as being maybe once a year or more depending on how much gunk gets into that topcoat. Provided I keep up with wash/wax of course.


It really depends on the type of clay used (fine grade or medium grade, actual clay or clay alternative), your technique and the paint finish itself.

Generally, most clay or clay alternative products will leave some amount of marring. I will say that most of the MB finishes that I've seen are on the harder side, so they tend to be less susceptible.

I usually clay about every 3 months if the car does not have a paint coating (i.e. Opti-Coat Pro, CQuartz UK or Finest) and apply fresh sealant at that time. More frequent claying may be needed if the car is not washed enough and contaminants bond onto the surface.
 
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