Video review/test - Noco Genius Boost

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A proper test would take place with a dead battery connected. You should never boost a car the way the video shows. If the positive leads shift and touch any part of the car....you would a serious problem.
 
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
A proper test would take place with a dead battery connected. You should never boost a car the way the video shows. If the positive leads shift and touch any part of the car....you would a serious problem.


If i had a dead battery to test with i would. You can find tons of videos already on the web with them testing it with a dead battery.

I made sure the leads weren't moving anywhere, which is why i put them by the case of the battery and the air box which are both plastic.

I don't really want to kill a battery just to test it though... If i come across a dead battery i will test it.
 
I'm sold. Just waiting for Christmas
grin.gif
 
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I'm checking on the G26000.
I have two of another make and actually jumped 1 vehicle with one so far. Worked well. But the G26000 has features I like.......thinking
 
Originally Posted By: Errtt
I'm checking on the G26000.
I have two of another make and actually jumped 1 vehicle with one so far. Worked well. But the G26000 has features I like.......thinking


G26000...drool!

I wish i had one of those chargers. Freaking gotta be the best charger on the market.

They are on sale at newegg for $199.... But the G7200 does pretty much everything the 26000 does for half the price.
 
Someone should loan you a early-90's Ford diesel for you to test, just to test the max limits.

The GM LS (LQ4) 6.0L no-battery test at NOCO's website is too easy. GM LS engines don't require a lot of cranking power since the compression isn't too high (trucks 9.5:1.) Test it on a high compression engine then it might have a hard time.
 
Originally Posted By: wirelessF
Someone should loan you a early-90's Ford diesel for you to test, just to test the max limits.

The GM LS (LQ4) 6.0L no-battery test at NOCO's website is too easy. GM LS engines don't require a lot of cranking power since the compression isn't too high (trucks 9.5:1.) Test it on a high compression engine then it might have a hard time.



Since they specifically say it's for up to a 6.0 engine, i am guessing they did some R&D to know it does have limits around that size.

I would venture to say it could start a larger engine that is low, but not really low on battery. Like maybe one that cranks slowly on its own battery, but not one that just goes "CLICK CLICK"
 
I recall Chris142 starting his IDI Ford on a similar boost pack, when a sales rep came around to his shop.

I know that the one we bought was demo'ed several times over the course of a day and (barely) failed to start a diesel powered compact tractor with a dead battery.
 
Your engine is already at 600 rpm even before starting the car! (well, at least the tachometer is showing 600 rpm before you even crank the engine)
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Your engine is already at 600 rpm even before starting the car! (well, at least the tachometer is showing 600 rpm before you even crank the engine)



I took the dash apart to replace the bulbs and it never worked right since. Never bothered to fix it. It works past 1,000 rpm okay but sticks slightly.
 
I am still waiting for my insurance money pay out :)

Seriously, do you really want to try shorting it? I probably will not but you might have more guts than I do!
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am still waiting for my insurance money pay out :)

Seriously, do you really want to try shorting it? I probably will not but you might have more guts than I do!



How would you want me to short it?
 
touch positive and negative
put red on the battery negative and black on battery positive
etc;

I am little disappointed that they do not supply A/C charger for charging.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
touch positive and negative
put red on the battery negative and black on battery positive
etc;

I am little disappointed that they do not supply A/C charger for charging.


I already did that with the unit on it just lights up the idiot light.

If you're asking me to hook it up in reverse and switch it on with manual over ride I won't. I don't want to destroy the unit and manual over ride disables the reverse polarity protection for batteries under 2v that can't be detected.


I was a little upset about the lack of ac power supply too, but who doesn't own a USB port on a laptop, desktop, android charger or apple charger? If you don't own any of those then you're probably not in to cool products like this. Theuunit works with any 5v usb from 500 mah up to 2100 mah.

I own tons of power supplier and have a laptop and desktop I could use if need be. I prefer to use my best ac power supply which is the oem Galaxy s5 unit that can output 2.1A or 10 watts.

In any event the 12v car charger would easy charge the unit in 3 hours without taking much amp hour's from the car battery.
 
Using usb charger seemed to be counterproductive. 5V to charge a 12V battery takes a lot of current and time.

Other jump starter use 12V to charge, which takes a shorter time and lower current.
 
Are you going to keep this in the glove-box? If so, will you periodically check it to see if it is still holding the charge?

Does it have cigarette lighter socket? That is can I plug in a 12V accessory to it?
 
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