Proper torquing of oil filter

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The DENSO oil filters have a built in torque stop so overtightening one is impossible.They always come off with little more than minimal effort. I was somewhat disappointed this week to see some excessive adhesive on the filter media of the Denso oil filter removed from my Camry. Haven't seen that before. If I see the same thing next spring, I think I might go back to using the OEM oil filter(also Denso but without end caps).
 
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
The DENSO oil filters have a built in torque stop so overtightening one is impossible.


The "torque stop" is simply the metal edge of the can coming into contact with the filter mount face on the engine. If too much torque is applied after the can starts contacting the filter mount, then it could really be hard to remove. The key is to stop tightening just a hair after the can starts hitting the seat.

The Denso Toyota filters are like this. I stopped using them for a couple of reasons: 1) their efficiency is low, and 2) I didn't like the can digging into the filter seat.
 
Just tightened a spin-on as much as you can using one hand and not in the gorilla mode.
You may or may not be able to remove it without a tool.
A good filter wrench makes removing even the most stubborn oil filter pretty easy.
I have three different types of filter removal tools and all have come in handy now and then.
A tool should never be used to install a spin-on and a torque wrench is probably not needed for cartridge filters either.
I've had these on my current BMW, an earlier 733i, and a couple of Benz diesels.
I changed an Ecotec once and the threads on the filter cap were so fine that, along with the o-ring, it probably wouldn't have leaked even if only hand tight. Plastic as well, unlike what I've seen on my old BMWs and Benzes, which also use threaded fasteners to hold the cap in place rather than a threaded cap.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
The DENSO oil filters have a built in torque stop so overtightening one is impossible.


The "torque stop" is simply the metal edge of the can coming into contact with the filter mount face on the engine. If too much torque is applied after the can starts contacting the filter mount, then it could really be hard to remove. The key is to stop tightening just a hair after the can starts hitting the seat.

The Denso Toyota filters are like this. I stopped using them for a couple of reasons: 1) their efficiency is low, and 2) I didn't like the can digging into the filter seat.


curious on the Toyota oil filter. I use their cartridge filter in my Camry 2.5. are you talking spin on?
 
Originally Posted By: Jeepjorge
...However, consider for a moment the barely trained quick change guys who over or under tighten filters. Do you think a quick change outfit would use those filters if for no other reason than to limit lawsuits from improperly installed filters?

Surely tightening 3/4 of a turn by hand after the gasket touches is about as simple as one could get? It works for consumers, why not so-called "pros?"
Introduce any more tools to the mix and it just gets more complicated, especially when discussed on this forum.
The gasket does not depend entirely on tightness to seal, oil pressure does that, which is why so few people get leaks despite the variation in techniques.
 
Originally Posted By: Kiwi_ME
The gasket does not depend entirely on tightness to seal, oil pressure does that, which is why so few people get leaks despite the variation in techniques.


I don't see how oil pressure will help make a filter base gasket seal better. The oil pressure is only acting on the inside surface area of the gasket, and is trying to leak past where the gasket contacts the filter seat, and also on the opposite side of the gasket where it contacts the gasket groove in the filter base.
 
^^^ Ah yes, but by how much would depend on just how compressible the O-ring is. Most of the large square type base gaskets are pretty darn stiff and doubt that the oil pressure helps much at all.
 
I have been changing my own oil and filters for over 40 years and I always use the wrench for an extra 1-2 inches of tightness
Never had any issue with leaks or removing later
 
The GM shop manual for my 4.8L indicates 22 lbs/ft for filter tightening. I used to use a torque wrench, now that I have a feel for it I use a cap wrench with a small ratchet handle to get to approx. the same torque.
 
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