So I have a little bit of DIY plumbing knowledge (emphasis on little bit). I noticed what appeared to be a leak in our shower at home. In the process of rounding up what I thought to be the usual possible suspects I attempted to pull the shower stems in order to check for signs of wear. The cold water stem and diverter stem are pretty well stuck in place, and I've had 0 success breaking them free (hot water I got without issue). Anyone have any tricks/recommendations as to how to go about this? The wall is an insert rather than tiles, so working space is fairly limited.
Stuck Shower Stems
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Some sort of pully puller?
I think they sell one for the purpose? May get away with renting an AZ one.
I think they sell one for the purpose? May get away with renting an AZ one.
Rap it with rag. Heat Vinegar to just below the boiling point on the stove then slowly pour it on the rag. Let it soak for awhile. That just may do the trick. Worked for me.
Are these the old-style screwed in brass stems?
Originally Posted By: Stelth
Are these the old-style screwed in brass stems?
Good question. If this is a Moen they have a kind of lock tab, sort of like a C-clip.
Are these the old-style screwed in brass stems?
Good question. If this is a Moen they have a kind of lock tab, sort of like a C-clip.
Originally Posted By: Stelth
Are these the old-style screwed in brass stems?
Yes screwed in brass stems. I'm fairly certain these have been in a lonnng time, by the looks of the handles, sleeves and some of the buildup I see. I'm sure these haven't been touched often.
Are these the old-style screwed in brass stems?
Yes screwed in brass stems. I'm fairly certain these have been in a lonnng time, by the looks of the handles, sleeves and some of the buildup I see. I'm sure these haven't been touched often.
Did you try: putting the faucet handle back on and turning it a bit. One of mine (it's an older shower) needs to have the handle "played with" to back out the stem.
Originally Posted By: Rick in PA
Did you try: putting the faucet handle back on and turning it a bit. One of mine (it's an older shower) needs to have the handle "played with" to back out the stem.
I'll try that - handles turns freely but I know often it's just trial and error to it catches right.
Originally Posted By: SrDriver
Rap it with rag. Heat Vinegar to just below the boiling point on the stove then slowly pour it on the rag. Let it soak for awhile. That just may do the trick. Worked for me.
Thanks, I'm not sure that there is enough room on the diverter stem to get in there, but will try that on the cold water. To make matters worse, stems are recessed (I meant to put that in with the lack of working space) so it is difficult to get a bite on the hot and cold. I mention it because the place I want to treat with the vinegar is on the backside (internal side) of the wall.
Did you try: putting the faucet handle back on and turning it a bit. One of mine (it's an older shower) needs to have the handle "played with" to back out the stem.
I'll try that - handles turns freely but I know often it's just trial and error to it catches right.
Originally Posted By: SrDriver
Rap it with rag. Heat Vinegar to just below the boiling point on the stove then slowly pour it on the rag. Let it soak for awhile. That just may do the trick. Worked for me.
Thanks, I'm not sure that there is enough room on the diverter stem to get in there, but will try that on the cold water. To make matters worse, stems are recessed (I meant to put that in with the lack of working space) so it is difficult to get a bite on the hot and cold. I mention it because the place I want to treat with the vinegar is on the backside (internal side) of the wall.
What I would do first is get some plumber's sockets. This can give you a good grip on the stem so that you can apply some torque without slipping. You have to use some judgment here, as it's possible to twist off the copper in the wall if you crank too hard. However, that's pretty unlikely on a three-handle valve like you describe. Also, the sockets come drilled so that you can stick a rod or screwdriver through them to use as a handle, but I usually use a big crescent to turn them.
And yes, make sure the stems are "open" when you're removing or installing them.
And yes, make sure the stems are "open" when you're removing or installing them.
Originally Posted By: Stelth
What I would do first is get some plumber's sockets. This can give you a good grip on the stem so that you can apply some torque without slipping. You have to use some judgment here, as it's possible to twist off the copper in the wall if you crank too hard. However, that's pretty unlikely on a three-handle valve like you describe. Also, the sockets come drilled so that you can stick a rod or screwdriver through them to use as a handle, but I usually use a big crescent to turn them.
And yes, make sure the stems are "open" when you're removing or installing them.
Unfortunately, I've tried all of the above before I started the thread, that's actually what prompted my question. I started off with a 12 inch crescent wrench, hot water stem successful, no problem. I believe the bonnet is the term for the nut that sits on top of the stem? Trying to remove the cold water stem I removed this piece (the bonnet) but could not break the stem free. There is a 6 point nut recessed into the wall, so I went to Home Depot in an attempt to pick up new stems and plumber's sockets. I didn't get a good bite with the first socket I picked up, so (even though I had tried the other 4 of the 5 sockets for size) I picked up a different brand with all 5 sizes. Attempted with rod for leverage, bent the rod - at this point I stopped with the thought that I applied enough pressure that I should stop and reevaluate as my concern was needing to open up the wall if I did real damage (probably should have stopped before I bent the rod but hindsight...).
What I would do first is get some plumber's sockets. This can give you a good grip on the stem so that you can apply some torque without slipping. You have to use some judgment here, as it's possible to twist off the copper in the wall if you crank too hard. However, that's pretty unlikely on a three-handle valve like you describe. Also, the sockets come drilled so that you can stick a rod or screwdriver through them to use as a handle, but I usually use a big crescent to turn them.
And yes, make sure the stems are "open" when you're removing or installing them.
Thread revival/random update, ended up taking care of this a while back, but in case it helps anyone else - I picked up and succeed with a set of pass through sockets.
Bostitch 65- Piece Pass Thru Socket Set (3/8” & 1/2")
Pretty neat set IMO too.
Bostitch 65- Piece Pass Thru Socket Set (3/8” & 1/2")
Pretty neat set IMO too.
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