I have considered a second opinion. He did show me the leak this morning and we haven't given up hope. Personally I think its the main seal. When running it slings oil off a sprocket on the drive shaft. He didn't notice that until he showed me. All he saw was what appeared to be oil weeping from the block, and it did appear that way. I agree a cracked Subaru block is unheard of, so I'm still hopeful.
Bad day - cracked block
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A seal with the oil travelling to where he saw it is exponentially more likely than a cracked block.
I thought those engines were case and barrel, like the old VW bug, but with water cooled barrels.
Originally Posted By: bvance554
I'm thinking its an anomoly. I just got a bad one - it happens.
Not really... it's a Subaru. They like to do this.
I'm thinking its an anomoly. I just got a bad one - it happens.
Not really... it's a Subaru. They like to do this.
Originally Posted By: Trav
No offense to the mechanic but i would seriously consider getting a second opinion.
I cant imagine it just developing a crack in the block after 185K out of the blue.
Agreed.
A possibility is that the mech created the oil leak when he fixed it. Not familiar with this particular engine, but if he over tightened the "plug", he may have damaged the threads or seal.
Of course, this is all guesswork and not to be taken as an arbitrary indictment.
No offense to the mechanic but i would seriously consider getting a second opinion.
I cant imagine it just developing a crack in the block after 185K out of the blue.
Agreed.
A possibility is that the mech created the oil leak when he fixed it. Not familiar with this particular engine, but if he over tightened the "plug", he may have damaged the threads or seal.
Of course, this is all guesswork and not to be taken as an arbitrary indictment.
The front seal is in the oil pump housing. There is a small o ring between the block and the oil pump housing that is IIRC a common source of leaks.
Sealing the oil pump and installing the front seal requires a lot of care or it will leak.
It must be perfectly clean, and the o ring a OE Subaru blue must be used and held in place with a little Vaseline.
Use Permatex anaerobic sealer not RTV, it works a lot better and is safer.
This is important. Install the front seal after the pump is installed. If the seal is installed in the pump housing and then mounted there is a good chance of knocking the spring of the rear of the seal! This will leak 100%.
This is from memory so check out the exact procedure on a Subaru forum.
Also it is easy to screw the pooch doing cam seals on these, the housing or cam is easy to scratch trying to get the seal out.
The seals should be installed with some RTV or Indian Head on the outside and if the shaft surface is scratched a sleeve should be installed. I have seen both at some point.
Sealing the oil pump and installing the front seal requires a lot of care or it will leak.
It must be perfectly clean, and the o ring a OE Subaru blue must be used and held in place with a little Vaseline.
Use Permatex anaerobic sealer not RTV, it works a lot better and is safer.
This is important. Install the front seal after the pump is installed. If the seal is installed in the pump housing and then mounted there is a good chance of knocking the spring of the rear of the seal! This will leak 100%.
This is from memory so check out the exact procedure on a Subaru forum.
Also it is easy to screw the pooch doing cam seals on these, the housing or cam is easy to scratch trying to get the seal out.
The seals should be installed with some RTV or Indian Head on the outside and if the shaft surface is scratched a sleeve should be installed. I have seen both at some point.
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
A seal with the oil travelling to where he saw it is exponentially more likely than a cracked block.
That is exactly what it was. He called today and said he replaced the crank seal. In defense of the mechanic i can see why he initially thought it was the block. It wasn't until he showed me the leak that he saw the oil slinging off the crank. Today is a better day
A seal with the oil travelling to where he saw it is exponentially more likely than a cracked block.
That is exactly what it was. He called today and said he replaced the crank seal. In defense of the mechanic i can see why he initially thought it was the block. It wasn't until he showed me the leak that he saw the oil slinging off the crank. Today is a better day
I was gonna suggest bad CKP sensor oring.
I have heard of fixing iron engines with Lock-N-Stich pins, but I have never heard of it being used on an aluminum engine. Maybe an equivalent exists for aluminum engines, but I have never heard of it.
Where I worked, if and engine or major part was cracked, the engine or part was junked to avoid future problems.
Where I worked, if and engine or major part was cracked, the engine or part was junked to avoid future problems.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I have heard of fixing iron engines with Lock-N-Stich pins, but I have never heard of it being used on an aluminum engine. Maybe an equivalent exists for aluminum engines, but I have never heard of it.
Where I worked, if and engine or major part was cracked, the engine or part was junked to avoid future problems.
Lock n' stitch makes aluminum plug. We sent a Porsche engine with a crack in an oil galley down to them and they fixed it without disassembling the engine. Saved us a ton of money. We also used them when we were restoring the first Duesenberg. They fixed a crack in the block at a head bolt hole and it came out good as new.
I have heard of fixing iron engines with Lock-N-Stich pins, but I have never heard of it being used on an aluminum engine. Maybe an equivalent exists for aluminum engines, but I have never heard of it.
Where I worked, if and engine or major part was cracked, the engine or part was junked to avoid future problems.
Lock n' stitch makes aluminum plug. We sent a Porsche engine with a crack in an oil galley down to them and they fixed it without disassembling the engine. Saved us a ton of money. We also used them when we were restoring the first Duesenberg. They fixed a crack in the block at a head bolt hole and it came out good as new.
Originally Posted By: Scott_Tucker
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I have heard of fixing iron engines with Lock-N-Stich pins, but I have never heard of it being used on an aluminum engine. Maybe an equivalent exists for aluminum engines, but I have never heard of it.
Where I worked, if and engine or major part was cracked, the engine or part was junked to avoid future problems.
Lock n' stitch makes aluminum plug. We sent a Porsche engine with a crack in an oil galley down to them and they fixed it without disassembling the engine. Saved us a ton of money. We also used them when we were restoring the first Duesenberg. They fixed a crack in the block at a head bolt hole and it came out good as new.
In that case, it looks like the OP can have his cracked block fixed without complete engine removal. All he would have to do is find someone who knows how to use aluminum Lock n' Stitch plugs.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I have heard of fixing iron engines with Lock-N-Stich pins, but I have never heard of it being used on an aluminum engine. Maybe an equivalent exists for aluminum engines, but I have never heard of it.
Where I worked, if and engine or major part was cracked, the engine or part was junked to avoid future problems.
Lock n' stitch makes aluminum plug. We sent a Porsche engine with a crack in an oil galley down to them and they fixed it without disassembling the engine. Saved us a ton of money. We also used them when we were restoring the first Duesenberg. They fixed a crack in the block at a head bolt hole and it came out good as new.
In that case, it looks like the OP can have his cracked block fixed without complete engine removal. All he would have to do is find someone who knows how to use aluminum Lock n' Stitch plugs.
Originally Posted By: bvance554
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
A seal with the oil travelling to where he saw it is exponentially more likely than a cracked block.
That is exactly what it was. He called today and said he replaced the crank seal. In defense of the mechanic i can see why he initially thought it was the block. It wasn't until he showed me the leak that he saw the oil slinging off the crank. Today is a better day
Good to hear...back on the road!
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
A seal with the oil travelling to where he saw it is exponentially more likely than a cracked block.
That is exactly what it was. He called today and said he replaced the crank seal. In defense of the mechanic i can see why he initially thought it was the block. It wasn't until he showed me the leak that he saw the oil slinging off the crank. Today is a better day
Good to hear...back on the road!
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