What brakes for VW CC?

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Ok guys,

Last 25K I was running EBC Ultimax slotted rotors with EBC Red Stuff pads. It seems that pads are too much for those rotors, since one started to wrap.
Anyway, I think I might upgrade to Brembo slotted rotors, but not sure on pads.
EBC Red Stuff are good, above average.
What would be your recommendation on HAWk HPS or HP+? Brembo offers their Ceramic performance pads, but this is honestly first time I see Brembo pads available on the market.
I do a lot of spirited driving on Colorado mountain roads so there is a lot of braking before corners. EBC proved up to the task (braking fluid is changed every 2 yrs) so I never experienced fading, just fw times, but nothing alarming.
Anyone can give some advice?
 
Probably nothing wrong with the rotors, you might just have some runout.

I would stick with the same combo, hard to find rotors that are better, ebc are good.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Probably nothing wrong with the rotors, you might just have some runout.

I would stick with the same combo, hard to find rotors that are better, ebc are good.

Going on monday to see what the deal is. They are not shaking, vibrating, just making sound like wheel bearing is gone, but only when brake.
 
Use solid blanks. Skip the slotted fad.

If thick enough, turn rotors, measure runout, slap on new pads, and replace all in the future. No point in tossing overpriced rotors with only 25k.

My experience with vw is that their wheel bearings sux. Maybe a curb or pothole took one out?

I've also seen slots and drilled rotors wear pads rapidly. Could just be worn out pads.
 
Rockauto has the AC Delco professional durastops which are supposed to be pretty nice for a non slotted rotor if you do replace the rotors. Apparently there's multiple diameters for the VW cc model though, I'm sure you already know you're diameter. Looks like either 340 or 312mm
 
Originally Posted By: Greasymechtech
Use solid blanks. Skip the slotted fad.

If thick enough, turn rotors, measure runout, slap on new pads, and replace all in the future. No point in tossing overpriced rotors with only 25k.

My experience with vw is that their wheel bearings sux. Maybe a curb or pothole took one out?

I've also seen slots and drilled rotors wear pads rapidly. Could just be worn out pads.

Pads are more then fine. They have a lot of meat left. Also, when I take fast sharp turn to the left, and put weight balance on the right side, I cannot hear any wheel bearings.
We will see, tomorrow I will disassemble everything and see what's going on.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Rockauto has the AC Delco professional durastops which are supposed to be pretty nice for a non slotted rotor if you do replace the rotors. Apparently there's multiple diameters for the VW cc model though, I'm sure you already know you're diameter. Looks like either 340 or 312mm

No I am staying from those manufacturers. Learned that lesson long time ago.
 
If you're not prepared to use proper brakes from the likes of AP, Tarox or Wilwood then the best you can do is brembo discs and pagid pads.
 
I don't think he'll be able to find Pagid pads in the U.S. OEM pads are going to be the best bet along with Brembo rotors.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
I don't think he'll be able to find Pagid pads in the U.S. OEM pads are going to be the best bet along with Brembo rotors.


eBay, amazon, rennstore.com and pagidpads.com all have stock in the US, and there is no doubt that they stop you quicker than OE pads..
Or, wait until you need to do an emergency stop when a kid runs into the road after his ball. After you kill the kid because you couldn't stop in the time/distance, then you'll agree with me that bigger/better brakes are the most important aspect of anything used on the road.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
Or, wait until you need to do an emergency stop when a kid runs into the road after his ball. After you kill the kid because you couldn't stop in the time/distance, then you'll agree with me that bigger/better brakes are the most important aspect of anything used on the road.


Sarcasm? The stock brakes on modern VW products are a lot better than most of their competition. Besides, if you got bad tires, you can have the best brake combination in the world and it wouldn't mean jack.

That being said, edge/DOT codes are pretty important when buying brake pads and I think it should be mandatory to disclose this information on the packaging - especially if you're buying them online.
 
No, not sarcastic, I'm serious.

Standard VW brakes are good but there is always room for improvement - especially when accountants have been involved after the designers..

Pagid make excellent pads in a variety of compounds, all of which stop quicker than the OE pad. I agree with your point about tyres, but perhaps mistakenly, I assumed that someone on Bitog who asks about which brakes to use is probably quite welll informed on maintenance and isn't running around on nearly bald ditch finders..

Of course I may be wrong.. So let's ask the OP.

@ The OP;

What tyres have you got? At what PSI and what tread depth?
 
One of his recent previous posts mentions Michelin PSS, so my assumption was correct and therefore so was my recommendation re friction material.
 
Slotted rotors are almost surely your culprit. They build up with friction material, let alone other road dirt and rust, and then they don't necessarily self-clean. No holes to the interior means junk can't be pushed in under compressive force either. Worst of all worlds. Build up too much on one side due to less hydraulic force or something, and then it gets worse.

IMG_3034_zps46955a0a.jpg


Get some plain rotors, check the runout, check the bearings and steering, then replace everything after fixing anything in need, and all should be well.
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
No, not sarcastic, I'm serious.

Standard VW brakes are good but there is always room for improvement - especially when accountants have been involved after the designers..

Pagid make excellent pads in a variety of compounds, all of which stop quicker than the OE pad. I agree with your point about tyres, but perhaps mistakenly, I assumed that someone on Bitog who asks about which brakes to use is probably quite welll informed on maintenance and isn't running around on nearly bald ditch finders..

Of course I may be wrong.. So let's ask the OP.

@ The OP;

What tyres have you got? At what PSI and what tread depth?

You are right, there is always room for an improvement.
Yes I run Michelin PSS, still enough depth no issues with tires, they are top notch.
The combination of EBC Ultimax rotors and EBC red stuff is MUCH better then OEM. Pedal feel is better, reaction is better, they dust more, but I care about stopping distance not looks.
I had chance to run Pagid while I lived in Europe, not quite impress with them that much. They are VERY good, but not on par with EBC, HAWK etc. The reason why I am asking this question is to see whether anyone else ran HAWK which seem very good by the reviews. Now, asking that question here means I will get probably answer from someone who has understanding what I am looking for and give me that answer based on that understanding.
Someone mentioned bearings etc. Sure I will check that, though considering that no noise is coming out of the wheel during sharp fast left turns, I doubt it.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Slotted rotors are almost surely your culprit. They build up with friction material, let alone other road dirt and rust, and then they don't necessarily self-clean. No holes to the interior means junk can't be pushed in under compressive force either. Worst of all worlds. Build up too much on one side due to less hydraulic force or something, and then it gets worse.

IMG_3034_zps46955a0a.jpg


Get some plain rotors, check the runout, check the bearings and steering, then replace everything after fixing anything in need, and all should be well.

Could be, we will see. As of today, cannot see any strange signs on rotors. They look good, no excessive wear, no any strange lines etc. Car brakes on the dime. No any sounds from steering, no wheel bearing sound when I hit left turn very hard (tried that with purpose).
If it turns out rotors picked up something, probably I will get plain OEM rotors with upgraded pads (probably will stay then with EBC red stuff).
 
So everything is OK with suspension, tires, bearings, The culprit is probably flat spot on the rotors or material in the pads, that pads reached point where another layer is used. Pads have approx. 10K life left in them. Car brakes on the dime, but there is that noise going on. Anyway, I will be replacing both rotors and pads. Right now trying to figure out whether plain ATE rotors would be good pair with HAWK HPS or HP+ pads, or go with Red stuff again.
What do you guys think?
 
Originally Posted By: Olas
Pagid make excellent pads in a variety of compounds, all of which stop quicker than the OE pad.


I don't mean to stray off-topic, but if you're in a panic stop situation where your ABS has kicked in, meaning that your braking ability has exceeded your tires' grip, will better pads still improve your stopping performance?
 
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