2010 Camry, Amsoil Signature 0W-20, 10.1K miles

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 10, 2004
Messages
780
Location
Phoenix, AZ
I was a bit surprised with this UOA - I am not sure where the copper is coming from, but more importantly, I am not sure what the deal is with the Silicon. If it's dirt, I would have expected to see higher wear metals with that much Silicon. On the other hand, I wouldn't think internal sealers would raise the Silicon level this high at this point in the engine's life. I have seen elevated Silicon with Toyota engines before, so they DO use Silicon for internal sealers, but I haven't seen this much before. I was also a bit surprised at the TAN level. Note that Virgin TAN for this Amsoil is about 4.6, from a VOA I had Blackstone perform on 9/1/2012. No engine work has been performed on this vehicle. Comments?

 
The OEM air filter on my Toyota truck did not seal well. I noticed some dirt making it past the seal. I replaced it with a Mahle, which has a nice foam seal. I just sent a sample off to [censored] today. We'll see the effect on silicone, but it was never really that high to begin with.
 
JerryBob -

I like your idea, but I went to the Mahle website and it appears Mahle does not have a replacement air filter that fits the 2.5L Camry. Do you (or anyone else out there) have any thoughts regarding a good replacement engine air filter with foam (or otherwise enhanced) seals that fits the 2.5L engine?
 
Clean the housing where the filter sits[the clean side] Put a layer car wax or a spritz of light oil [as a release agent] and RTV the the air filter in. I have been doing this for years to seal the air filter where it mated to the housing.
 
Get an amsoil EAO air filter, best air filter you can put in your car, they use nano-fibers in theirs... better at fast, cuz they are discontinuing them, they can't compete in the air filter market anymore. Go find an amsoil dealer and get a membership and buy a bunch of supplies, oil, filter, air filters, etc... stock up!
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't worry about it too much this time around... if it's that high next time, or goes up even, I would look into it.
 
FYI -

I have not yet opened the air filter compartment to examine it yet, but it has been about 25K miles since the air filter was replaced. For that reason, plus the fact that Silicon is so high, I have ordered a WIX replacement filter, along with some K&N air filter gasket sealer grease and will replace it when they arrive. Problem is we won't see its effect (if any) until the next UOA, which will happen almost a year from now.
 
I'd go back to the TGMO 0W-20 or try some M1EP 0W-20 in your 2010 Camry.

I'm running Castrol Edge right now but not pushing out to 10,000 miles between changes.

Castrol Edge Titanium would be more than satisfactory too.

Do replace the air filter.

The air box on that Camry is a little tricky to get buttoned up correctly.

Chances are, the tech that replaced the original filter didn't get it back together properly.
 
As a follow up, I did remove the air filter and examined it closely, especially at the edges (Sorry, no pics).

It was moderately dirty, but not terribly so, certainly not enough to account for the elevated Silicon. There was also no indication of leaks, and the air filter box was properly seated and was tight.

As a precaution, I cleaned out the filter box with compressed air, installed a new Wix filter, and used K&N air filter sealing grease to ensure a good seal. We'll see what happens on the next UOA a year from now.

SilverC6 - what's the justification for going to TGMO or Mobil 1? Just curious.
 
Originally Posted By: JerryBob
The OEM air filter on my Toyota truck did not seal well. I noticed some dirt making it past the seal. I replaced it with a Mahle, which has a nice foam seal. I just sent a sample off to [censored] today. We'll see the effect on silicone, but it was never really that high to begin with.



My silicone went from 12 down to 8 after replacing the air filter. This was per the UOA that I did a month ago. Not sure how much is the better filter, and how much is just the dissipation that would have happened anyway.
 
No fuel or oil additives have been used at any time, prior to my ownership of the vehicle (which began at about the 11,000 mile mark)
 
Engine break-in wear is still rinsing out.
Is nothing to worry about since fe+al+cu is miniscule for a 10k run, especially considering UOA accuracy.

Add the wear metals:
18ppm in 9773 miles
17ppm in 10114 miles

Time to uoa the trans fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: MobilinHyundia
Cant understand why the TAN can be that high too. The last UOA of my car engine with Amsoil 5w20 doing a 15 000 miles run, TBN was 2.1 and TAN 1.8.
Is not the Signature Amsoil a majority % Ester base oil "blend", IIRC. Do not redline ester oils exhibit high starting TAN?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top