Best synthetic oil for 240K mile truck?

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It's a good bet that your truck saw nothing more than inexpensive oils for at least a couple of hundred thousand miles before you bought it.
These oils apparently worked fine, since they've brought the engine to this point.
My two cents would be to use either Maxlife or Defy in a 10W-30 grade.
There's no real advantage in a 5W-30 in Florida.
I'd prefer Defy ATM, since it contains moly and Maxlife no longer does.
Using a syntheric oil will not necessarily reduce wear or deposits, if that's what you're after.
Happy motoring and good luck reaching your goal.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
It's a good bet that your truck saw nothing more than inexpensive oils for at least a couple of hundred thousand miles before you bought it.
These oils apparently worked fine, since they've brought the engine to this point.
My two cents would be to use either Maxlife or Defy in a 10W-30 grade.
There's no real advantage in a 5W-30 in Florida.
I'd prefer Defy ATM, since it contains moly and Maxlife no longer does.
Using a syntheric oil will not necessarily reduce wear or deposits, if that's what you're after.
Happy motoring and good luck reaching your goal.


+1
 
My only concern with this truck would be regarding possible new leaks. I have seen older cars with a dry oil pan develop leaks once switched to synthetic. If this happens try going back to conventional or high mileage conventional.
 
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Why in the world would you use one of the most expensive syn oils on the market on an old truck with 240k on it ?
Its your money but it is way overkill
If your truck has no leaks or alot of consumption I think you will be fine with just a name brand dino oil
My 2 pennies


+1 Use whatever got your truck up to 240k. If it ain't broke.....
 
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
This archoil looks interesting,but very expensive!


lawnguy I really like the specs (.003 coefficient of friction) of the AR9300 but due to cost I just ordered a gallon of Archoil AR9100 with .03 coefficient of friction and a quart of AR6200 fuel additive. Winter is coming on and I have a lot of engines that have not had the oil changed in a few years around the place.

By going with the gallon size AR9100 is $2-3 less expensive for a 5 quart engine than MoS2 the way I was buying it and it has a lower coefficient of friction the best I can tell. It is about $20 less expensive than Ceratex for the same engine yet is still a nano technology additive with a lot of usage history on the web.
 
As was mentioned in another thread, how is the COF being measured, and is the method relevant to an ICE? Do you know?

Also, the claimed improvement - did you notice that their website says:

Quote:
AR9100 Nanoborate reduces friction to coefficients of 0.037, half again the friction coefficient of 'micro boron', and a fraction of traditional lubricants like zinc, phosphorous and other additives presently used in popular oil and grease formulations.

Read that carefully and note that it give the COF relative to additives, not to oil? Is that correct?


Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
This archoil looks interesting,but very expensive!

lawnguy I really like the specs (.003 coefficient of friction) of the AR9300 but due to cost I just ordered a gallon of Archoil AR9100 with .03 coefficient of friction and a quart of AR6200 fuel additive. Winter is coming on and I have a lot of engines that have not had the oil changed in a few years around the place.

By going with the gallon size AR9100 is $2-3 less expensive for a 5 quart engine than MoS2 the way I was buying it and it has a lower coefficient of friction the best I can tell. It is about $20 less expensive than Ceratex for the same engine yet is still a nano technology additive with a lot of usage history on the web.
 
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
I think I'm going to stop doing business at walmart regarding Mobil 1. I'm going to start using royal purple hmx 5w 30. I will be ordering it online from jegs. They have good prices,and it's free shipping to my house.

a lot will criticize you for that, I will not.
I have been using Royal Purple 10w30 HMX in both of my trucks, Isuzu 2.6 and Ford 302, both with over 200k, they are noticeably quieter than they were on Mobil 1 HM, the Ford consumes less (1.5k-2k per quart vs. 1k per quart with mobil 1)

and the big thing for me, is I'm not supporting Wal Mart, the price doesn't really bug me, changing it once a year at about 10k miles.
 
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Originally Posted By: snowflake
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
I think I'm going to stop doing business at walmart regarding Mobil 1. I'm going to start using royal purple hmx 5w 30. I will be ordering it online from jegs. They have good prices,and it's free shipping to my house.

a lot will criticize you for that, I will not.
I have been using Royal Purple 10w30 HMX in both of my trucks, Isuzu 2.6 and Ford 302, both with over 200k, they are noticeably quieter than they were on Mobil 1 HM, the Ford consumes less (1.5k-2k per quart vs. 1k per quart with mobil 1)

and the big thing for me, is I'm not supporting Wal Mart, the price doesn't really bug me, changing it once a year at about 10k miles.


I've been considering getting HMX 10W-30 on Amazon for the Firebird and just doing once-a-year OCIs. It's good to hear some testimonials on it as I never hear anything about it on this site. I've used Mobil 1 HM and Pennzoil HM, but I wasn't all that impressed with the Mobil 1 HM and how it almost seemed to increase the leaks in the car rather than slow them down. Pennzoil HM slowed it down almost completely, but I'd feel more comfortable using a synthetic for a once-a-year change (7000-8000 miles or so). I really didn't notice a difference in engine noise or how it ran, however.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
As was mentioned in another thread, how is the COF being measured, and is the method relevant to an ICE? Do you know?

Also, the claimed improvement - did you notice that their website says:

Quote:
AR9100 Nanoborate reduces friction to coefficients of 0.037, half again the friction coefficient of 'micro boron', and a fraction of traditional lubricants like zinc, phosphorous and other additives presently used in popular oil and grease formulations.

Read that carefully and note that it give the COF relative to additives, not to oil? Is that correct?


Originally Posted By: GaleHawkins
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
This archoil looks interesting,but very expensive!

lawnguy I really like the specs (.003 coefficient of friction) of the AR9300 but due to cost I just ordered a gallon of Archoil AR9100 with .03 coefficient of friction and a quart of AR6200 fuel additive. Winter is coming on and I have a lot of engines that have not had the oil changed in a few years around the place.

By going with the gallon size AR9100 is $2-3 less expensive for a 5 quart engine than MoS2 the way I was buying it and it has a lower coefficient of friction the best I can tell. It is about $20 less expensive than Ceratex for the same engine yet is still a nano technology additive with a lot of usage history on the web.


kschachn your question is one I have been trying to find the answer to but I have found no lab results just marketing statements. What is needed is data using the treated motor oil that will be in the engine.

It is so much less expensive than the Ceratec for a nano additive but the main attraction is its internal cleaning ability if the marketing hype is remotely true.

Our engines that we service around the place are 70's through early 90's for the most part so I would like to clean them up but after running the Rotella 5W-40 T6 for a few years they may be clean to the max. In that they can set without starting for 6 months or longer having the parts coated with lube should stop/reduce cold start ups is a major reason I want to try the Archoil 9100 at this time plus some only get the oil changed every 5 years or so.

The Archoil AR6200 is less expensive than Seafoam to keep gas fresh and should be good for the diesel injectors and injector pumps.

If pressed for time I may just change filters for now and add the AR9100 in the tractors and F700 truck so some of the cleaning can happen before going with new oil next spring.

I have mixed feeling about the value of most additives when using a top notch oil like Rotella T6 especially. I like doing is as a hobby and it is cheaper than some hobbies.
smile.gif
 
Being that my truck has over 200K miles, is it ok for me to extend my oil changes? Can I change my oil 1 time a year,being I drive about 10k miles per yr?
 
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If you want to go 10k on changes you need to use a name brand synthetic and a top line filter that is made for that mileage
Dont use an entry level filter
 
Do you want to extend your oil changes or extend your engine life?

Sometimes it's hard to do both

If you engine is running clean and sweet after 200K plus miles I'd be reluctant to change anything personally

To find the very best oil, first you must know the application

What Nissan is it? Model? Engine? etc.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Supertech synthetic 5w30


Isn't Supertech synthetic low grade synthetic oil?
 
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Supertech synthetic 5w30


Isn't Supertech synthetic low grade synthetic oil?


Nope...good stuff
 
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