Inner cv question

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How free should they slide in and out? I pulled both axles on my VW, and both sides feel like they bind a bit. They seem to have lots of grease in them. But one side feels like it is relatively easy to bind up.

I pulled both axles to try to find a bearing noise. I know one boot is torn so I pulled that side first, but I wanted to check wheel bearings also I pulled both axles. Bearings feel fine. So either the final drive is acting up or I have a bad inner cv I think. Noise comes and goes, but is unaffected by cornering.
 
It might be a dumb question but what do you mean by in and out? Could I try it on an axle that's out of the car? I still have the old axle taken out of the beetle from 2 months ago. Drivers side and torn inner boot, I can take a look at it if it'll help compare to yours.
 
Outer cv's are supposed to turn every which way(but loose). Inner cvs have some play but they are supposed to slide in and out. As the steering knuckle goes up and down the inner slides a bit, in or out, as needed.

I tried working them in and out, to get grease to flow. That helped. But they still feel rough.
 
Ok I just checked, the outer CV had some resistance to turning it, it wanted to spring back straight. The inner CV had no resistance at all, it flopped in and out no problem although that boot is torn at the end all the way and black grease was flopping all around. I guess it could be bad but I didn't notice any weird noises before I changed it. I changed the axle because it was at the dealer 2 months ago with the tranny out and they said $180 to change just the inner boot while the tranny was out. I supplied a brand new axle and they put it in for free. Now I have 2 new CV boots.
 
Got it apart. Three balls were shiny, two gray and one black. But I thought the wear surfaces were not bad.

11252dg.jpg


esudmp.jpg


1ietra.jpg
 
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Wow, had no idea how CV joints worked. Are you rebuilding or buying new axles? I think new axles are like $50-60 each at O'Reillys
 
Not that far yet. Not sure if I want to go OEM or cheap. At this point it would be nice to slap in new grease and keep going.
 
I would not recommend buying new and after-market CV axles for VW. Just reboot yours or replace inner/outer bearings. After-market axles are most likely solid shafts which will cause your drive shaft to vibrate at certain RPMs due to resonance from the transmission. Believe me, I went through this. Good thing I kept mu OEM axle instead of giving it up for the core deposit.

PS. The inner CV should slide in and out without hesitation, but it should not have play when turning. There should be lots of grease on it. Also, my passenger side axle is wider in diameter and hollow compared to the driver side axle. You cab buy boot kits for both inner or outer, or just have it serviced by Raxles.
 
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Boots are cheap, joints not so much. As long as the wear doesn't look bad I will put back together I think. I don't like how this slides, but I don't think it is worth the few hundred to buy new joints at this time. It will probably slide decent enough once back together.
 
Started putting together last night. Not going well. I thought I scored so it would be phased properly but cannot find the mark.

The outers went easily but the inners are giving me grief at the moment.
 
The inner looks okay, did you loose the match mark? Shiny spots are normal and no reason to discard it.
What problem are you having putting it together, i have one here i can take pictures of with the steps to reassemble the joint if you need them.
 
Lost the mark. I can get three balls in, and it will work properly. I can get a fourth in after much effort and it will work. Five and it binds up.
 
Okay i think i know whats wrong. I just took some pictures and tried to put it in mismatched and it wont go.
I will post the pics in a few min.
 
This is the assembled joint axle side up. Notice the number 8 in the lower right hand corner (it could be another number)
SAM_1323.jpg

The inner race, notice it has all different cutouts that correspond to the outer.
SAM_1324.jpg

Axle side outer race.
SAM_1325.jpg

Transmission side of the joint, this is the side you assemble from.
SAM_1326.jpg

Assemble as shown here, leaving the 2 balls out at 1 and 3 o'clock.
SAM_1327.jpg

Rotate the inner race and ring upwards on the 1 and 3 o'clock side and insert the 2 balls at the same time. then rotate it in, use a little wd40 on the balls if you like.
Now it will operate smoothly.
When installing the clip on the axle make sure the flat side of the clip is facing the transmission or it can fly off.
Test it by hitting the joint with a plastic faced hammer like you trying to knock it off. It should stay in place. If the snap ring flies off reverse it.
SAM_1328.jpg

Make sure it looks like this when your done. ^
 
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Ah, thanks!

The big thing: assemble dry *before* pressing onto the shaft. Much easier to move in every which way. I was trying it with the boot in the way, and it was restricting my ability to move it around too much.

Thanks again! One down, one to go.
 
Do not like Rein boots. Wound up reusing one, the inner that doesn't use a clamp, on the other side. The one that uses a clamp is simply too small. And the outers are I think too long. Will see how long they last.

Got both back in, drives ok. Sheared the wires off the brake pad so now I have that warning on, and of course the check engine light came on. Makes the same bearing noise I think. Not surprised, as I think that is the transmission.

Nasty job, grease all over the place. Not sure how much I want to do this job again, if it were ever to arise again.
 
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