0w20 in Toyota 4.7 (2005)

[DirtyMoe21]

I know that it's spec'd for 5w30 and 5w20, but is there anyone on here that has experimented with running 0w20 in the 4.7? Currently running 0w30 AFE, I do admit to becoming a fan of 0w20 after the switch in my wife's Corolla. I'd like to hear opinions as well.

Thanks

 

[gregk24]

If it was backspec'd for 5w20 then M1 0w20 should work. They are the only ones AFAIK that guarantee the use of 0w20 in 5w20 applications.

 

[Hermann]

If it was spec'd for 5w-20, 0w-20 is no problem. Probably better oil as the base stock is better. my 2¢

 

[timeau]

You know, if I do something, I do it for some reason. Just write down on a piece of of paper all advantages and disadvantages of using 0W20. It will look like this:
Advantages:
1. 1.5% of fuel economy
2. Fashionable in this season (same as pink pants, blue boots, etc.

)
2.

Disadvantages:
1. Not recommended by manufacturer.
2. Increased oil consumption.
3. Higher price comparing to excellent dyno oils (PYB of Mobil Super)
4. IMO, it is time to switch to something like QS Defy with higher zinc content, but you are going to go into opposite direction.

P.S. 0W20 oils are made for CAFE, not for cars. The whole Europe has no idea what 0W20 is for.

 

[gregk24]

Originally Posted By: timeau
You know, if I do something, I do it for some reason. Just write down on a piece of of paper all advantages and disadvantages of using 0W20. It will look like this:
Advantages:
1. 1.5% of fuel economy
2. Fashionable in this season (same as pink pants, blue boots, etc.

)
2.

Disadvantages:
1. Not recommended by manufacturer.
2. Increased oil consumption.
3. Higher price comparing to excellent dyno oils (PYB of Mobil Super)
4. IMO, it is time to switch to something like QS Defy with higher zinc content, but you are going to go into opposite direction.

P.S. 0W20 oils are made for CAFE, not for cars. The whole Europe has no idea what 0W20 is for.


For some, 0w20 just makes since. I do a lot of short trip driving, usually around 5 miles or less. Since the oil hardly reaches operating temperature, the oil is already thicker than necessary so a 20 weight suits my cars needs. No need for something thicker when it hardly reaches operating temp.

 

[OneEyeJack]

I'll have a UOA on Red Line 0w-30 in a 03 4.7V8 4Runner pretty soon. It'll have about 135K's worth of hard work, towing and dirt roads with a lot of short runs. I'll be sending a sample out in a couple of weeks.

 

[Hermann]

Originally Posted By: timeau
You know, if I do something, I do it for some reason. Just write down on a piece of of paper all advantages and disadvantages of using 0W20. It will look like this:
Advantages:
1. 1.5% of fuel economy
2. Fashionable in this season (same as pink pants, blue boots, etc.

)
2.

Disadvantages:
1. Not recommended by manufacturer.
2. Increased oil consumption.
3. Higher price comparing to excellent dyno oils (PYB of Mobil Super)
4. IMO, it is time to switch to something like QS Defy with higher zinc content, but you are going to go into opposite direction.

P.S. 0W20 oils are made for CAFE, not for cars. The whole Europe has no idea what 0W20 is for.


Know of any cars blowing up because they used 0w-20 instead of 5w-20? Mmmm I have not.

 

[supton]

I have no doubt that older iron here has problems with thinner oils. But newer motors? Last I knew we drove more miles than Europe does, and own vehicles longer--and yet it seems few cars die from wiped bearings. Rust, neglect and bad transmissions, yes. Bad engine bearings?

Might as well argue also about how "over there" they run 12k to 20k OCI's as opposed to our 5 to 10k. I wonder what the thick oil crowd thinks of that!

*

I'm curious if the 4.7 takes to the 0W20. I'm guessing it will not care.

Side note: was at Walmart and the M1 0W20 with the green label and "meets Toyota specs" or somesuch was $22.63 or $4.53/qt. Called my local Toyota dealer and 0W20 was $5.39/qt. YMMV, just pointing out the costs here with minimal/zero shopping.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

My Nissan get better mileage* with 5w30 gold bottle SS dexos1 Pennzoil for 17 bucks for 5qts. - but its still breaking in and its not too cold yet

*50mpg at 45 -55 mph flat road. 38mpg overall.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: supton
I have no doubt that older iron here has problems with thinner oils. But newer motors? Last I knew we drove more miles than Europe does, and own vehicles longer--and yet it seems few cars die from wiped bearings. Rust, neglect and bad transmissions, yes. Bad engine bearings?

Might as well argue also about how "over there" they run 12k to 20k OCI's as opposed to our 5 to 10k. I wonder what the thick oil crowd thinks of that!

*

I'm curious if the 4.7 takes to the 0W20. I'm guessing it will not care.

Side note: was at Walmart and the M1 0W20 with the green label and "meets Toyota specs" or somesuch was $22.63 or $4.53/qt. Called my local Toyota dealer and 0W20 was $5.39/qt. YMMV, just pointing out the costs here with minimal/zero shopping.


It's a pretty well known fact that the only way to get 100K out of an engine is to run 20w-50 (none of that water CAFE oil!!!!) and change it out every 3000 miles.

 

[timeau]

Originally Posted By: Hermann
Know of any cars blowing up because they used 0w-20 instead of 5w-20? Mmmm I have not.

Why are you talking about 5w20? Did anybody mention it? And how many people did report you about their issues? How did you gather your statistics?
This car is 10 years old. Still good for 0W20, huh?

Originally Posted By: Miller88

It's a pretty well known fact that the only way to get 100K out of an engine is to run 20w-50 (none of that water CAFE oil!!!!) and change it out every 3000 miles.

Exactly. You forgot to mention watching TV where newbie actor in the role of engineer advertise you "the new super-duper technology oil, that fits any car in any driving conditions, and just for $8 for quart!"

And he expects yours "ye-e-ah, cool oil, let's buy it!
BTW, my 5 years old cell phone makes call as good as "super-duper" iPhone6. Should I dispose it and spend $700 for geek's toy? No way...

 

[Capa]

Originally Posted By: Hermann
If it was spec'd for 5w-20, 0w-20 is no problem. Probably better oil as the base stock is better. my 2¢


Actually Toyota back spec'd my Lexus GS400 for 5W-20 but not their 0W-20. There is another toyota car that fits that bill as well but I cant remember which. Mobil 0W-20 would probably work or if you want to use Toyota synthetic and then maybe add one quart of Mobil 0W-40, which is exactly what I am running in my GS400 right now.

 

[DirtyMoe21]

Thanks for all the input guys, I now have a full sump of 0w20 EP and a fresh Fram Ultra. I will definitely do a UOA on this when the time comes.

 

[Hermann]

Timeau,

5w-20 was mentioned in the first line of the OP's initial post.


That is why I made that statement.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: Capa
Originally Posted By: Hermann
If it was spec'd for 5w-20, 0w-20 is no problem. Probably better oil as the base stock is better. my 2¢


Actually Toyota back spec'd my Lexus GS400 for 5W-20 but not their 0W-20. There is another toyota car that fits that bill as well but I cant remember which. Mobil 0W-20 would probably work or if you want to use Toyota synthetic and then maybe add one quart of Mobil 0W-40, which is exactly what I am running in my GS400 right now.



I almost wonder if some vehicles not being back spec'd to 0w-20 is for cost or different additives that may be found (or lack of) in a 5w-20 vs 0w-20.

 

[Climb14er]

Originally Posted By: DirtyMoe21
I know that it's spec'd for 5w30 and 5w20, but is there anyone on here that has experimented with running 0w20 in the 4.7? Currently running 0w30 AFE, I do admit to becoming a fan of 0w20 after the switch in my wife's Corolla. I'd like to hear opinions as well.

Thanks


Seems like you asked and answered your own post in no time at all. Looking forward to seeing a report after some good miles on the oil.

Up here in Denver, I've been running 5W-30 Synthetic Platinum all year round. Still on extended warranty a few more months.

The 5W-30 starts up smoothly in all temps and the easy on oil 4.7 V8 just purrs along fine.

If I can see really good numbers on 5W-20 or even 0W-20 I might consider these.

There's been no need to switch even among my other friends who have similar vehicles and engines.

Hope things work out well and that your testing numbers show real positivity to the thinner oils.

 

[DirtyMoe21]

Originally Posted By: Climb14er
Originally Posted By: DirtyMoe21
I know that it's spec'd for 5w30 and 5w20, but is there anyone on here that has experimented with running 0w20 in the 4.7? Currently running 0w30 AFE, I do admit to becoming a fan of 0w20 after the switch in my wife's Corolla. I'd like to hear opinions as well.

Thanks


Seems like you asked and answered your own post in no time at all. Looking forward to seeing a report after some good miles on the oil.

Up here in Denver, I've been running 5W-30 Synthetic Platinum all year round. Still on extended warranty a few more months.

The 5W-30 starts up smoothly in all temps and the easy on oil 4.7 V8 just purrs along fine.

If I can see really good numbers on 5W-20 or even 0W-20 I might consider these.

There's been no need to switch even among my other friends who have similar vehicles and engines.

Hope things work out well and that your testing numbers show real positivity to the thinner oils.


Yea, just wanted to hear others opinions for the final push towards the switch. So far so good with the 0w20, the engine is still as smooth as usual. Hopefully I can rack up some miles quickly on the oil with hunting season starting up soon. These 4.7s seem to to be extremely easy on oil from what I've read so far.

I haven't had any oil consumption since I've owned it, the previous owner (original) had the oil changed every 5k right on the dot at the Toyota dealer. I'm not sure what the dealers use, but the engine looks like new inside the oil fill hole.

How many miles do you have on your 4.7 Runner?

 

[Capa]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: Capa
Originally Posted By: Hermann
If it was spec'd for 5w-20, 0w-20 is no problem. Probably better oil as the base stock is better. my 2¢


Actually Toyota back spec'd my Lexus GS400 for 5W-20 but not their 0W-20. There is another toyota car that fits that bill as well but I cant remember which. Mobil 0W-20 would probably work or if you want to use Toyota synthetic and then maybe add one quart of Mobil 0W-40, which is exactly what I am running in my GS400 right now.



I almost wonder if some vehicles not being back spec'd to 0w-20 is for cost or different additives that may be found (or lack of) in a 5w-20 vs 0w-20.


No one has been able to adequately answer this perplexing question. Would love to hear opinions from some heavyweights here.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: timeau
You know, if I do something, I do it for some reason. Just write down on a piece of of paper all advantages and disadvantages of using 0W20. It will look like this:
Advantages:
1. 1.5% of fuel economy
2. Fashionable in this season (same as pink pants, blue boots, etc.

)
2.

Disadvantages:
1. Not recommended by manufacturer.
2. Increased oil consumption.
3. Higher price comparing to excellent dyno oils (PYB of Mobil Super)
4. IMO, it is time to switch to something like QS Defy with higher zinc content, but you are going to go into opposite direction.

P.S. 0W20 oils are made for CAFE, not for cars. The whole Europe has no idea what 0W20 is for.


Almost everything you said is wrong.

 

[Hermann]

Originally Posted By: Capa
Originally Posted By: Miller88

No one has been able to adequately answer this perplexing question. Would love to hear opinions from some heavyweights here.


I weigh 225 lb, is that heavy enough.