SL-rated Subaru

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Nobody on BITOG talks about Mobil 1's new(er) ESP line of oils. These oils appear to be top shelf stuff. Limited applications and I certainly have little use for them, but this would be the perfect oil for this application.
 
Originally Posted By: Concours14
I don't think anything necessitates any product, just wondering if the engine (ok, the builders of the engine) want me to stick with SL-levels of zinc, etc. or if none of it matters at all.

I doubt it matters in the least. Remember, most manual verbiage is to use, for example, SL/GF-3 or better. It won't usually say to avoid all newer oils, since that's not always (or even often) feasible. And I certainly wouldn't dose anything.

Oil Changer: What would one exactly be trying to achieve by using an expensive, hard to find, low SAPS ACEA oil in a ten year old Subaru?
 
Forget zinc. Nothing in oil stands alone. There is plenty of zinc and other antiwear agents in modern oil. Each upgrade to the oil standards is better than the previous. There might be a few engines, especially ones that have been rebuilt for more power, might need something special. Usually not, but the modification brings out any weak points. Use the latest oil and your engine will be happy.
 
Running Pennzoil High Mileage conventional 5W-30 in my daughter's 150k mile 2000 2.5 RS with no complaints.

-Dennis
 
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This NA Subie isn't going to be real picky about oil.
This is the same engine that we have in our Forester.
The OM recommends that an API SM 5W-30 SM be used, but then goes on to allow for any number of thicker grades as long as they're at least API SL.
Subaru recommended API SL for your engine since that was the most current spec at the time, not because the engine requires higher metallic add levels.
Use any current spec oil and rest well.
A 5W-30 will be fine.
 
Yes any sn 5w-30 will be fine, as stated many times in this thread.

Find something that tickles your fancy at a good sale and try afew 5k oci's. You can push further with semi syncs or full synthetics. Synthetic really isn't necessary. Nothing wrong with a HM selection, but if not burning or seeping oil, probably not necessary. I think MS5k is a pretty good value at wm. PYB/QSGB tend to be very smooth running.

M1, aside from 0w-40, doesn't have a strong following in the subie community. This is mostly from higher iron levels/sheer in uoa's with the SL formula in turbo engines. (even current 0w-40 shows some shear in turbo subarus) I haven't kept up with newer formulas, but doubt a NA engine would have the same experiences.

Select your filter for the appropriate oci length. Decide where you fall in the filter bypass spec debate. I prefer the higher Subaru spec, but have run lower industry standard spec filters without issue.

MS5k 5w-30 and a fram tough guard would be a recliner quarter back call. Both good quality and value.

Use Subaru coolant or flush and switch to peak global lifetime. I'd use the additive, it's cheap insurance.
 
FYI, I run the edge 0w-30 with a Subaru filter for 8k in the forester. Essentially the same engine. It's most likely overkill. Got a good deal on Synpower with the walmart coupon last month, so switch over to that a round or two. Also picked up a fram ultra in a separate oil deal, and considering running it for two oci's.
 
FXBG... Mary Wash Alum... wow

I have the Phase 1 EJ... you can really run whatever you want. If you want a decent SL (high ZDDP), then QS Defy would work and it is relatively cheap. The ZDDP can foul O2 sensors if it is burning oil but that should not matter.

I literally run whatever I have in the EJ. It is getting a QS Defy 5w20 and Shell T5 10w40 mix right now. Mostly because I picked up both on clearance (might have gotten the Shell for free with a rebate). $13 for 5q of QD Defy, $5 (minus $5 rebate) for the Shell T5... Subarus are easy on oil... save for the new ones. My '14 is a PITA with the 0w20 availability. Ugggg.

Oil does not matter on the EJ... but the filters do. You engine operates in the low 20s and most Oil filters are in the 8-12PSI range for their bypass setting... so...

Do you research on the filters, not the oil. Subaru, Wix and Purolator are basically your only choice and since Purolator filters have been tearing (I had two failures back to back) only use Wix. You need to look up the correct model and check the bypass setting, but they are good to go from there.
 
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