Sludged Volvo S60 2.4t?

[dlundblad]

Good looking car 3800. Hers is a 2002, but I love the look of the old boxy ones. Very sharp.

Did a bit more reading on an oil to use. A lot of people suggested Amsoil 5w40 so I am guessing either the M1 0w40 Euro spec, Castrol 0w40, or Ultra 5w40 Euro spec (hard to find and more $$$), but a few said to use the weight the car is spec'd for because of the turbo. I imagine the 0w 40 would be more beneficial for the extreme short trips though. I don't know much about turbo'd applications so I really cant make an educated guess.

If I had to use what the car was spec'd for I would either use PP 5w30 or M1 EP 5w 30.

I appreciate all the previous input on oil suggestions.. Just trying to get more opinions. Thanks.

 

[JOD]

A couple of things: people are making suggestions to "fix" a problem that you don't even know exists. Again, build-up on the vent means nothing. If the dealer was actually changing it w/Maxlife @ 3K *and* the level wasn't run way down, then I seriously doubt you have any problems. Maybe use this as an excuse to get a cheap videoscope and see what's actually going on instead of trying to fix problems that don't exist.

Calls for an A3 rated oil make no sense in this application, at all. I'd use an SN-rated 5W30 synthetic, and if you're really concerned used something that meets Honda's HTO-06 turbo spec. (M1 5W30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 are two options). 1) the low boost white blocks don't get the oil that hot, and 2) they oil is way too thick 100% of the time anyway, given the driving habits. A heavier oil is completely counterproductive given that the oil never sees operating temps. You don't have a high-boost 2.3L being driven hard. Your best bet is just to do what's being done already-change it frequently.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: JOD
A couple of things: people are making suggestions to "fix" a problem that you don't even know exists. Again, build-up on the vent means nothing. If the dealer was actually changing it w/Maxlife @ 3K *and* the level wasn't run way down, then I seriously doubt you have any problems. Maybe use this as an excuse to get a cheap videoscope and see what's actually going on instead of trying to fix problems that don't exist.

Calls for an A3 rated oil make no sense in this application, at all. I'd use an SN-rated 5W30 synthetic, and if you're really concerned used something that meets Honda's HTO-06 turbo spec. (M1 5W30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 are two options). 1) the low boost white blocks don't get the oil that hot, and 2) they oil is way too thick 100% of the time anyway, given the driving habits. A heavier oil is completely counterproductive given that the oil never sees operating temps. You don't have a high-boost 2.3L being driven hard. Your best bet is just to do what's being done already-change it frequently.



Very valid point. I don't know if the issue even exists. I guess now we are down to OCI recommendations. I want to change the oil rather than the dealer. It will cost roughly the same (time and gas factored in) and I would be certain the filter was changed.

If the oil is too thick anyways, would a 0w30 be better?

 

[tiger862]

Everyone here is a Maxlife lover. I can tell you I ran it in everything for long time with no problems up and until a year ago. Since then every time I changed oil it was thick and nasty. I do short trips with stop lights involved with some hwy driving. I normally do 6k a year so I change at 3k or 6 months. I have since changed to Pennzoil Dexos since I drive a Saturn Vue. Haven't ran it long enough to see if it is better. I haven't pulled cover to check for sludge and won't since I don't need anything to worry about. I have been on this routine and mileage for almost 5 years. Vehicle runs great and uses no oil or coolant so I am not going to mess with anything.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad

Very valid point. I don't know if the issue even exists. I guess now we are down to OCI recommendations. I want to change the oil rather than the dealer. It will cost roughly the same (time and gas factored in) and I would be certain the filter was changed.

If the oil is too thick anyways, would a 0w30 be better?


Well, there's no quick answer besides "it depends". Some 0W30 like Castrol's 0W30 are actually quite a bit thicker than most 5W30's. Meanwhile, Mobil's 5W30 is roughly the same viscosity at its 0W30--and at some temps the 5W30 is thinner than the 0W30. If you live in the really cold part of the state, M1 0W30 is certainly a good choice if you can find it cheaply. Getting the car out for a decent drive one a week or two can help quite a bit, too--heating the oil up and burning off the condensation.

 

[Pingeye2]

Take the advice of MAGNUS308 and VOLVOHEAD above. Use an A3 or HTO-06 synthetic oil and genuine Mahle or Mann filters. The PP/PU or the M1 oils work well, you have to decide on the weight but the advice already given is accurate. The Mahle / Mann filters are a proven entity and can found in almost any foreign parts store and for much less that one in an orange box if you can even find someone that carries them.

VOLVOHEAD is spot on about the bulk oil the dealers used. When we got our S60 I was shocked at how much buildup was on the strainer. I would not call it sludge, but it was not what I expected to see. I have seen some Volvo's that the screens are almost clogged. I can say that after regular changes with one of the above oils, the screen has no discoloration anymore. I fathom that the inside of the engine has gone thru the same transformation.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Pingeye2
Take the advice of MAGNUS308 and VOLVOHEAD above. Use an A3 or HTO-06 synthetic oil and genuine Mahle or Mann filters. The PP/PU or the M1 oils work well, you have to decide on the weight but the advice already given is accurate. The Mahle / Mann filters are a proven entity and can found in almost any foreign parts store and for much less that one in an orange box if you can even find someone that carries them.


Please--stop with this nonsense. A car that sees a series of 1 mile drives does not need an A3 rated oil, period. Did you even read the original post?

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: JOD


Meanwhile, Mobil's 5W30 is roughly the same viscosity at its 0W30--and at some temps the 5W30 is thinner than the 0W30. If you live in the really cold part of the state, M1 0W30 is certainly a good choice if you can find it cheaply.

Since AFE 0W-30 has a lower 3.0cP HTHSV than M1 5W-30 and has a different base oil chemistry it's marginally higher KV40 spec' really can't be relied upon to conclude it's heavier at some temp's.
An acquaintance who is running AFE 0W-30 for the first time in a car with a oil pressure gauge told me his OP is somewhat lower or the same vs the various 5W-30s he has always run including M1. He has yet to test it at very low temp's.

 

[Pingeye2]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: Pingeye2
Take the advice of MAGNUS308 and VOLVOHEAD above. Use an A3 or HTO-06 synthetic oil and genuine Mahle or Mann filters. The PP/PU or the M1 oils work well, you have to decide on the weight but the advice already given is accurate. The Mahle / Mann filters are a proven entity and can found in almost any foreign parts store and for much less that one in an orange box if you can even find someone that carries them.


Please--stop with this nonsense. A car that sees a series of 1 mile drives does not need an A3 rated oil, period. Did you even read the original post?



Yup, I read every word. It's not a Ford Focus.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Pingeye2
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: Pingeye2
Take the advice of MAGNUS308 and VOLVOHEAD above. Use an A3 or HTO-06 synthetic oil and genuine Mahle or Mann filters. The PP/PU or the M1 oils work well, you have to decide on the weight but the advice already given is accurate. The Mahle / Mann filters are a proven entity and can found in almost any foreign parts store and for much less that one in an orange box if you can even find someone that carries them.


Please--stop with this nonsense. A car that sees a series of 1 mile drives does not need an A3 rated oil, period. Did you even read the original post?



Yup, I read every word. It's not a Ford Focus.


Um...what does a Ford Focus have to do with anything?

I've owned several white block engines--but what does that have to do with anything either? The oil never gets up to operating temps in this car. The low-boost 2.4's do not have particularly high oil temperatures, either. There's no reason to us an A3-rated oil in this application. So, but parroting nonsense is still nonsense.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM


Since AFE 0W-30 has a lower 3.0cP HTHSV than M1 5W-30 and has a different base oil chemistry it's marginally higher KV40 spec' really can't be relied upon to conclude it's heavier at some temp's.
An acquaintance who is running AFE 0W-30 for the first time in a car with a oil pressure gauge told me his OP is somewhat lower or the same vs the various 5W-30s he has always run including M1. He has yet to test it at very low temp's.


Isn't the HTHS of M15W30 roughly the same? (I'd consider .1cP to be pretty much in the noise). That said, if the oil pressure is lower at start-up, that's certainly a good indicator that it is indeed lighter.

 

[CATERHAM]

It's 3.1cP for M1 5W-30 and 3.0cP for AFE.
Since Mobil is now generally only providing HTHSV to one decimal place instead of two, the HTHSV of the 5W-30 could be as high as 3.149cP or as low a 3.051cP.
But the HTHSV for the 0W-30 used to be given as 2.95cP and 2.99cP in previous SM versions so I doubt it's much heavier than that.

The other thing to keep in mind is that the oil is marketed as "Advanced Fuel Economy" with a 2% fuel savings. All other factors being equal fuel economy largely correlates to HTHSV so there must be some significant difference between the two oil grades.

 

[Pingeye2]

I've owned several white block engines--but what does that have to do with anything either? The oil never gets up to operating temps in this car. The low-boost 2.4's do not have particularly high oil temperatures, either. There's no reason to us an A3-rated oil in this application. So, but parroting nonsense is still nonsense. [/quote]

You're right. The Volvo spec of an ACEA A5/B5 for this engine is irrelevant, your recommendation of an out of spec fluid is the absolute only answer. The OP wanted to know what to do to correct the current condition because the correct products were not used, and the vehicle not serviced appropriately. You have not answered his question, but only have refuted what you would do if it was yours, shilling for your own self gratification. Your proposal is exactly what created the issue that the OP was seeking advice to solve. Others have answered appropriately, you should refute their recommendations as well.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The other thing to keep in mind is that the oil is marketed as "Advanced Fuel Economy" with a 2% fuel savings. All other factors being equal fuel economy largely correlates to HTHSV so there must be some significant difference between the two oil grades.


Mobil aren't claiming that the AFE gets 2% better economy than the 5W30, they are claiming that
Quote:
Helps to improve fuel economy based on 0.2-2.3% potential fuel economy improvement obtained by switching from higher viscosity oils to a 0W-30 grade. Actual savings are dependent upon vehicle/engine type, outside temperature, driving conditions and your current engine oil viscosity


http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-30.aspx

Could be that the 5W30 is in the 0.2% range, and the HTHS are really as close as the PDS' indicate.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Pingeye2



You're right. The Volvo spec of an ACEA A5/B5 for this engine is irrelevant, your recommendation of an out of spec fluid is the absolute only answer. The OP wanted to know what to do to correct the current condition because the correct products were not used, and the vehicle not serviced appropriately. You have not answered his question, but only have refuted what you would do if it was yours, shilling for your own self gratification. Your proposal is exactly what created the issue that the OP was seeking advice to solve. Others have answered appropriately, you should refute their recommendations as well.


What on earth are you blabbering on about? Where did I recommend an out of spec oil for this car? Every oil I recommended meets A5/B5? I said an A3 rated oil (which isn't even spec'd for this car) is unnecessary.

I'd suggest learning how to read.