Oil for zero turn mower?
- Thread starter DR1
- Start date
- Status
I run 10w30 Pennzoil PLatinum in my 20HP B & S. Seems to do real well in my John Deere L111.
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
Whatever I decide on it will either be 15w 40 or 10w 40. I really think I will need more than a 30w synthetic. There is just so many fully synthetic brands to choose from, it's kind of confusing.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 or Rotella T6 5w40 then. Either will be great.
Whatever I decide on it will either be 15w 40 or 10w 40. I really think I will need more than a 30w synthetic. There is just so many fully synthetic brands to choose from, it's kind of confusing.
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 or Rotella T6 5w40 then. Either will be great.
This question will require the knowledge of an experienced engine mechanic. Does there oppose a problem with using synthetic oil in a brand new engine,or should conventional oil be used in the very beginning stages? I've heard that it's best to allow the engine to break in with conventional oil. "How many hours until an engine is broke in" ?
Is any of this a definite fact?
Is any of this a definite fact?
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
This question will require the knowledge of an experienced engine mechanic. Does there oppose a problem with using synthetic oil in a brand new engine,or should conventional oil be used in the very beginning stages? I've heard that it's best to allow the engine to break in with conventional oil. "How many hours until an engine is broke in" ?
Is any of this a definite fact?
I have to wonder if it applies to engines with chrome type rings. Those were hard enough to break in ( in auto engines) with out a synthetic oil. Chrome rings might be used more in OPE due to the dirt and their toughness. But i would like to hear someone who tears these down for a living comment.
This question will require the knowledge of an experienced engine mechanic. Does there oppose a problem with using synthetic oil in a brand new engine,or should conventional oil be used in the very beginning stages? I've heard that it's best to allow the engine to break in with conventional oil. "How many hours until an engine is broke in" ?
Is any of this a definite fact?
I have to wonder if it applies to engines with chrome type rings. Those were hard enough to break in ( in auto engines) with out a synthetic oil. Chrome rings might be used more in OPE due to the dirt and their toughness. But i would like to hear someone who tears these down for a living comment.
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
Dave123, I you an experienced engine tech. ? If not, it would be helpful to others to not chime in about something you have no idea about. There are many people on here who would like to learn some things that are actual fact.
Dude.. Seriously?
Pretty sure you need to go find another board.
Dave123, I you an experienced engine tech. ? If not, it would be helpful to others to not chime in about something you have no idea about. There are many people on here who would like to learn some things that are actual fact.
Dude.. Seriously?
Pretty sure you need to go find another board.
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
Dave123, I you an experienced engine tech. ? If not, it would be helpful to others to not chime in about something you have no idea about. There are many people on here who would like to learn some things that are actual fact.
Are you for [censored] real.
Dave123, I you an experienced engine tech. ? If not, it would be helpful to others to not chime in about something you have no idea about. There are many people on here who would like to learn some things that are actual fact.
Are you for [censored] real.
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
Dave123, I you an experienced engine tech. ? If not, it would be helpful to others to not chime in about something you have no idea about. There are many people on here who would like to learn some things that are actual fact.
Not a great way for a new member to start posting on here.
Dave123, I you an experienced engine tech. ? If not, it would be helpful to others to not chime in about something you have no idea about. There are many people on here who would like to learn some things that are actual fact.
Not a great way for a new member to start posting on here.
You've been given alot of good advice by alot of different people. Whether Dave is an engine tech or not, his advice was spot on. I'm sure they're are alot of reputable OPE shops in your area with techs who can answer your questions to your liking as the members here seem unable to do so. You seem to be pretty flippant to be the new LITTLE BOY on this board, having joined less than a month ago. Anybody besides me smell anything?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: lawnguy
Oh woe is me...let me go run and hide because all the little school yard bullies are ganging up on me. Boo hoo hoo....lol.
My N%ts are the size of a beach balls! Go try and intimidate someone else,because you can't me.
Anyways, all you other people who have shared your information I am grateful for your input.
You started a decent thread that i found interesting. Don't go stooping to this level, keep it about the subject and leave it at that.
Oh woe is me...let me go run and hide because all the little school yard bullies are ganging up on me. Boo hoo hoo....lol.
My N%ts are the size of a beach balls! Go try and intimidate someone else,because you can't me.
Anyways, all you other people who have shared your information I am grateful for your input.
You started a decent thread that i found interesting. Don't go stooping to this level, keep it about the subject and leave it at that.
Pretty sure he's going to need more than a heavy-duty engine oil to haul his beach-ball sized genitalia around on his Dixie Chopper. LOL.
lawnguy, you are looking for one definitive, perfect answer. Well, you aren't going to get one ... because it doesn't exist.
People, opinions and experiences vary. However, if you read and weigh posts in this thread (and others) you should be able to take away some very useful advice. There are lots of experienced users on this forum. I, myself, have about a quarter century taking care of OPE and I have not yet lost one due to an engine failure. Some are decades old and still running as good as new.
For OPE, many of us find the HDEO oils to be very good, economical choices. They are shear stable, have a strong additive package and are better able to deal with the byproducts of combustion than regular (PCMO) oils.
Some specifics:
There is no synthetic 15W-40. A synthetic HDEO in that class is a 5W-40 ... and there is at least a dozen of them in the marketplace. However, being in Florida, I do not believe the cold-flow properties of a 5W-40 will help you much. If you feel a 40 weight oil is appropriate, then a 15W-40 will serve you just as well for less than half the price.
Synthetic oils typically do not protect better in moderate applications. Their advantages include flowing better in cold temps and surviving tortuous high temps and super long oil change intervals (neglect). They are useful in some applications but not magic in all.
If your machine is brand new and tight, you're probably best off with a slightly thinner 10W-30. Just watch for consumption. If the consumption in the first 50 hours strikes you as excessive, consider moving to the thicker 15W-40. I prefer Chevron Delo and Pennzoil Long Life 15W-40 but all major brands are at least decent.
I rarely use pricey synthetics in OPE, especially engines without a spin-on filter. The oil fills up with debris and carbon and should be changed relatively frequently.
If it's a new engine, search for "OPE engine break-in" threads within this subforum. You should change the engine oil 2-3 times in the first 12 hours of operation.
People, opinions and experiences vary. However, if you read and weigh posts in this thread (and others) you should be able to take away some very useful advice. There are lots of experienced users on this forum. I, myself, have about a quarter century taking care of OPE and I have not yet lost one due to an engine failure. Some are decades old and still running as good as new.
For OPE, many of us find the HDEO oils to be very good, economical choices. They are shear stable, have a strong additive package and are better able to deal with the byproducts of combustion than regular (PCMO) oils.
Some specifics:
There is no synthetic 15W-40. A synthetic HDEO in that class is a 5W-40 ... and there is at least a dozen of them in the marketplace. However, being in Florida, I do not believe the cold-flow properties of a 5W-40 will help you much. If you feel a 40 weight oil is appropriate, then a 15W-40 will serve you just as well for less than half the price.
Synthetic oils typically do not protect better in moderate applications. Their advantages include flowing better in cold temps and surviving tortuous high temps and super long oil change intervals (neglect). They are useful in some applications but not magic in all.
If your machine is brand new and tight, you're probably best off with a slightly thinner 10W-30. Just watch for consumption. If the consumption in the first 50 hours strikes you as excessive, consider moving to the thicker 15W-40. I prefer Chevron Delo and Pennzoil Long Life 15W-40 but all major brands are at least decent.
I rarely use pricey synthetics in OPE, especially engines without a spin-on filter. The oil fills up with debris and carbon and should be changed relatively frequently.
If it's a new engine, search for "OPE engine break-in" threads within this subforum. You should change the engine oil 2-3 times in the first 12 hours of operation.
- Status
Similar threads
- Question
