choose my new brakes and rotors!!

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Hey guys,

I recently bought a 2010 nissan titan with 60k miles, 2WD, 20 inch wheels.

After 3 weeks of ownership I noticed It would shudder when braking from highway speeds.Based on past experiences, this means my front rotors are bad.

I plan to buy from rock auto or parts geek , but I'm not familiar with most of the brands they sell.

Shamefully I confess I've always bought the cheap house pads and rotors. The house brands at the local part stores cost 60 bucks a piece, at that price I will pay more for a quality brand.

Any advice is appreciated. I really like the truck and plan to keep it a long time. I'm hoping to pay around 150 for all o f it, but if it's going to cost more for decent parts, I'll just get them turned and hope it fixes the prob till tax refund time.
 
Before buying anything, you should diagnose the problem. You could have over torqued lugnuts, slicking caliper slidepins, dragging caliper pistons, etc. You could end up with excessive thickness variation again on the new rotors.
 
I personally used the Centric premium rotors and akebono pro-act pads.

If you're doing a full brake job, pick up the brake hardware (clips) too, it's only a few bucks.

When i had similar issues, it was recommended by my shop that you've got a bad shimmy, it was recommended to me to to do pads too, especially if they've got some wear on them already.
 
My GF's 2008 Nissan Versa had the same problem. When I did the pads and rotors, I noticed the shop who put on the old stuff (PO's mechanic) didnt put 2 of the pads on correctly causing uneven wear. On Nissans there are spring clips that pop into a loop on the pad.

As far as parts, we went to the local AZ and bought the Duralast stuff, working good thus far.

I always use the mid-grade stuff without issue.
 
There's a whole lot of space under a 20" wheel, you should capitalise on that space with enormous Tarox calipers and their recommended disc&pad compound.
 
You can get away with the house brand rotors but step up to a better pad Formula. Autozone gold and above are excellent as well as Wearever gold and Platinum. I recommend Wearever Platinum if you like low dusting and noise or the golds seminars metallic for more bite.
 
I would just go with Wagner TQ pads from RockAuto and some decent rotors. Ordering rotors from RockAuto costs too much in shipping to be worth it. I do order rotors from Amazon, but I have Amazon Prime so free shipping.

My suggestion is to spend your money on high quality pads.

But as others have mentioned, you need to diagnose the problem before throwing pads on. Could be a caliper issue requiring a new caliper or a new sliding pin.
 
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I've heard good things about the Powerstop sets. Just put a new set on the front of the SHO and it seems to be good. Still breaking them in but it will stop on a dime now. Something it really did't do, even new.

If these work out well, I can see a set for the F150 in it's future.
 
The Beck-Arnley rotors listed (if yours are vented) are probably made by Brembo..about $55 each and $20 shipping from RockAuto.

Brembo is very good.

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0833325 {#402061LA1A, 402061LA2A, 402069FF0B, 40206ZR00A, 40206ZR01A, 980630} Premium
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
You can get away with the house brand rotors but step up to a better pad Formula. Autozone gold and above are excellent as well as Wearever gold and Platinum. I recommend Wearever Platinum if you like low dusting and noise or the golds seminars metallic for more bite.


Cheap rotors are junk. Especially on these Nissan trucks. They have had issues with brake judder since they were introduced. With revised rotor part numbers etc. I would stick with either an OEM rotor, or something of higher quality such as the Raybestos Advance Technology or something similar.

I am a big fan of Napa Adaptive One pads. Some people like them, others probably don't but they have been excellent for me on several vehicles. The Raybestos Element3 are a similar design which look pretty nice also.
 
Originally Posted By: mehullica
Before buying anything, you should diagnose the problem. You could have over torqued lugnuts, slicking caliper slidepins, dragging caliper pistons, etc. You could end up with excessive thickness variation again on the new rotors.


This.

A good first step would be trying to rebed the pads. Don't go crazy, as some of the commonly quoted processes online can overheat and damage regular street pads.

I've had issues in the past where rebedding the pads has cured pedal pulsation. I'm guessing it scrubbed something off the rotor that was causing a thickness variation in my case.
 
Originally Posted By: DB_Cooper
The Beck-Arnley rotors listed (if yours are vented) are probably made by Brembo..about $55 each and $20 shipping from RockAuto.

Brembo is very good.

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0833325 {#402061LA1A, 402061LA2A, 402069FF0B, 40206ZR00A, 40206ZR01A, 980630} Premium


What makes you suspect that?

I'm not saying you're wrong, but many, many of B/A's rotors are made by Fremex in Brazil. Which isn't a bad thing. The images I've seen of them posted here make them look impressive.
 
If you're going Rock Auto, get the Centric Fleet Performance pads and their front brake hardware kit (it'll ship from the same warehouse that way). Put those on and clean and lube everything and bed them in on your current rotors.

If that doesn't solve the problem, RA currently has two brands of front rotors on Wholesale Closeout for ~$30 each.
 
I went with baer rotors and EBC green pads on my 07 titan and have never looked back. The oem parts are junk . I got mine part through auto anything .
 
Did the truck have a 20 inch wheel option, or were 20 inch wheels installed by someone else? Extra large wheels increase the burden on the braking system. Having premium pads and rotors may be essential if your wheels are oversized.
 
It's a factory option.

I ad my brother in law who is a mechanic look at it, and he confirmed it was the rotors.

I'm thinking about using ultra rotor slotted rotors, on closeout on rock auto. The pads I'm thinking raybestos E3.

Thank you all for the input.
 
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