Refrigerator problem

[reemoe2]

I've been having problems with my fridge temp creeping toward 50 degrees at times. This morning, I slightly adjusted the temperature control knob (which is currently sitting at the recommended level - "3" on the 1 to 5 scale). Right now, it has been running ever since I got home from work and is down to 30 degrees!!

This Whirlpool top-freezer model is about five years old and has been giving us fluctuating temperature problems before. This past spring, I replaced the run capacitor and 'combination start device' (as partselect.com calls it), which seemed to have helped for the past few months.

What might the problem now be? Maybe the defrost timer or thermostat? By the way, as I'm typing this, I just heard the compressor finally shut off. The only other symptom I've noticed recently is, at times, when it sounds as if the compressor it ready to kick on, it hums for a second or two, but then kicks right back off.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!
Ryan

 

[Quest]

first and foremost: what's the condition with your condensor coil section? If dusty and/or fan not working consider that your first priority.

you then proceed to things like defroster timer, thermostat faulty, etc.

Q.

 

[ZeeOSix]

On most refrigerators, the cold box section receives colder air from the freezer section, and the temperature is controlled by a thermostat that controls a door between the two sections which allows colder freezer air flow in to the cold box section. The freezer section has it's own separate thermostat that controls when the refrigerator runs or not.

If your freezer section is controlling as usual, but the cold box section isn't, then it's most likely a thermostat going bad, or the door mechanism/hardware is going bad and can't mechanically open/close when the thermostat is telling it in order to to keep the cold box section to the thermostat's temperature set point.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
On most refrigerators, the cold box section receives colder air from the freezer section, and the temperature is controlled by a thermostat that controls a door between the two sections which allows colder freezer air flow in to the cold box section. The freezer section has it's own separate thermostat that controls when the refrigerator runs or not.

If your freezer section is controlling as usual, but the cold box section isn't, then it's most likely a thermostat going bad, or the door mechanism/hardware is going bad and can't mechanically open/close when the thermostat is telling it in order to to keep the cold box section to the thermostat's temperature set point.


If you spend huge bucks for a smallish refrig and get a Leibharr you get 2 compressors. Digital temp readouts and a chime that starts sounding if the temp is way off or the door is left open.

 

[reemoe2]

I cleaned off the coils a couple months ago when I replaced the run capacitor and start device. Last night, I put the thermometer in the freezer. After the compressor kicked off, it stood at 2 degrees. After a couple of hours or so of not kicking back on, it was at 20 degrees. Whenever I notice temps going up like this (or typically when the fridge is reading in the mid-40s), I turn the manual temperature knobs in the fridge. Sometimes, it kicks on when turning the the fridge knob; other times, when I turn the freezer knob. By chance, does this provide any evidence of what may be wrong or need replacement?

Thanks again!
Ryan

 

[Nayov]

Mine was acting similarly and I believe it was low on refrigerant, after chasing every possible scenario. But yours is only 5 years old? Mine was from 1986 so I just chucked it. I'd get a firm date on yours and do a calculation (that is, energy usage from that vintage verses today's offerings). It could very well be that it would be cheaper to buy a new one. I save $20 a month compared with the old one (I got an Energy Star certified one; not all are).