Switching from Mobil 1 to Rotella T6 wise?

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Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
They both would be fine, UOAs might show a difference, but why change? T6 isn't any cheaper.


The KISS principle applies in this case. The OP already has a fleet of vehicles he is using T6 for maintenance purposes.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Can you throw a few more Huh's in there? Two is not enough when attempting to provide constructive feedback on why not to use one of the best products on the shelf.
HD SAE 30 CI/ SL is even sturdier - maybe she should use that instead of a wimpy multigrade?
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He's in Cali
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Can you throw a few more Huh's in there? Two is not enough when attempting to provide constructive feedback on why not to use one of the best products on the shelf.
HD SAE 30 CI/ SL is even sturdier - maybe she should use that instead of a wimpy multigrade?
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He's in Cali
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Yes Monograde SAE 30 will work just fine if this is what is handy. I just will not go out of my way to obtain it.

T6 M-1
Viscosity at 40C: 76 63
Viscosity at 100C: 13.2 11.0
Pour Point: -45C -42C
Viscosity Index: 179 172
CCS: 6,000 @ -30C 4958
HT/HS: 3.9 3.3

Unless the OP is starting his engine in actual sub zero temperatures the viscosity difference between the two products is negligible at actual operating temperature. Unless after a decade plus of use the engine and its build tolerances have shrank? There is no way T-6 is too viscus. T-6 may be too viscus for your liking.
 
This thread went downhill fast.

He wants to use one oil for all of the engines he maintains. T6 is a fine choice. It won't hurt the Infiniti. Simple is good. Go for it!
 
Simple except that the Toyota engine does not call for a 40-weight oil, and the high zddp may lead to catalyst problems, which would be an issue in a state where they do annual emissions inspections.
 
Stick with the specified 5W-30 grade. Any API 5W-30 will work well but if you want to continue with M1 use their 5W-30 grade instead. It has higher performance to their 10W-30 being both lighter on start-up with a higher high temp'/high stress viscosity.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
This G35 was designed when API SJ oil was available. SJ ZDDP levels would be up 1200PPM.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/474309/Amsoil_XL-7500_10W-30#Post474309
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/474508/VOA__Shell_%28equilon%29_Formula_3#Post474508

A 10w40 oil could be used if the temperature was above 0F.

http://www.g35club.org/download/2005-G35.pdf

T6 will preform better than good in this application.

Aaand there it is. No need for catalytic converter panic. T6 will be fine, and has the benefit of simplifying your vehicle maintenance! Enjoy!
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
This G35 was designed when API SJ oil was available. SJ ZDDP levels would be up 1200PPM.


But most of them weren't, as per some UOA's and VOA's we've had posted on oils from that era. They were about on-par with current oils in respect to actual ZDDP values, just the limit was higher.

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Originally Posted By: dave1251
I know of someone using Mobil Delvac in his Infiniti G37. I wonder if this tailor will chime in on this thread?

I wouldn't hesitate to use T6 in my G37. The ZDDP in Delvac 1 and Rotella isn't ridiculously high by any stretch of the imagination, and certainly not out of line with any of the Euro oils, such as M1 0w-40. As you pointed out, it's not out of line with what was potentially available when the vehicle was new.

Rotella T6, M1 0w-40, M1 10w-30, PYB 5w-30, and so forth all would be perfectly fine. The vehicle is long out of warranty. Don't ignore the manual's recommendations completely, but purchase by cost, availability, convenience, and even OCI. Up here, I don't like the "regular" price of Mobil 1, and I wouldn't be buying a synthetic 10w-30, as CATERHAM pointed out, so M1 10w-30 would be near the bottom of my list of choices. In California, that would be another matter altogether, particularly with respect to price and climate.

jbl_91762: Do what works for you. As ARCO points out, if you try it and don't like it, you can always try something else. I wouldn't worry about using dual rated HDEOs in gasoline engines (where the viscosity is at least somewhat reasonable and the choice is made appropriate to the weather) after warranty. T6 has a high initial TBN and good retention, so you may be able to get some advantage from that over an ordinary PCMO.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
This G35 was designed when API SJ oil was available. SJ ZDDP levels would be up 1200PPM.


But most of them weren't, as per some UOA's and VOA's we've had posted on oils from that era. They were about on-par with current oils in respect to actual ZDDP values, just the limit was higher.

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True about the ZDDP levels and T6 is more advanced and better than just about any oil available in 2003.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
True about the ZDDP levels and T6 is more advanced and better than just about any oil available in 2003.

Shell just needs to push it a little more for gassers, rather than being sheepish about it. Mobil talks about Delvac 1 in gassers. Of course, they would rather one buy the targeted products, but they do realize that there are pricing variations all over the world and there are logistical concerns. If someone wants to run their entire fleet on T6 and it's feasible, I say go for it.

Personally, I can never tell the difference between oils unless I were to do something foolish, like run 20w-50 in the winter. I've run QSGB, PYB, and Delvac 1 in the G37 and I cannot tell the difference.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dave1251
This G35 was designed when API SJ oil was available. SJ ZDDP levels would be up 1200PPM.


But most of them weren't, as per some UOA's and VOA's we've had posted on oils from that era. They were about on-par with current oils in respect to actual ZDDP values, just the limit was higher.

smile.gif



True about the ZDDP levels and T6 is more advanced and better than just about any oil available in 2003.


Agreed. But I think that could also be said for a myriad of other oils too.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
This thread went downhill fast.

He wants to use one oil for all of the engines he maintains. T6 is a fine choice. It won't hurt the Infiniti. Simple is good. Go for it!





EXACTLY!

Come on guys. Let's be serious here. The op is wanting to keep everything simple as far as his routine is concerned and going a grade thicker in a hot running engine might be a good idea.
Cold start is a non issue,he already stocks t-6 and the engine has a few miles on it which means a slightly thicker oil may be of benefit.
I know I've bought pails of oil,at a large discount vs buying jugs,so if it means saving a few bucks buying in volume why not go for it.
Yes we all know the theory of thicker oil being harder to pump and therefore may reduce fuel economy however in my charger when I go from the 20 grade I run in the winter to the 40 grade I run in the summer my cruising fuel consumption doesn't change any perceptible amount,so I'm not sold on added fuel consumption in real world driving conditions.
So OP. WELCOME TO BITOG.
I say go for it. It's certainly not going to cause any harm at all,no matter what the peanut gallery implies.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Simple except that the Toyota engine does not call for a 40-weight oil, and the high zddp may lead to catalyst problems, which would be an issue in a state where they do annual emissions inspections.




Considering the vintage of the vehicle and originally specifying the SJ spec,which iirc could be as high as 1200ppm,do explain how the t-6 will pose a catalyst issue when it was originally built for oils with that much zddp.
And considering its a grade thicker wouldn't it burn less oil when compared to a thinner variety.

Op

This whole catalyst tripe is absurd. When your car was built the SJ spec allowed for zddp to be that high,so to imply that an oil with similar levels of zddp as what was originally specified is truly laughable.
And going thicker will lessen oil burning,which in reality may lower the total amount the converter ingests over its lifetime because even though there's potentially more phos in the oil vs an SN spec oil,less is burning,lowering the total going in.
Just sayin
 
I knew I'd open up another crazy debate. But I am learning from all of you and from this website. I understand if it ain't broke don't fix, but like others also said, T6 in all my engines now and so far so good. T6 Is cheaper then M1 and it's just easier cause I do buy bulk. I'm going to try it and listen how motor likes the change. In my inexperience with oils, I appreciate all input but will go with majority on this and I will keep everyone posted. Thanks again! Love this forum, very educating AND entertaining too!
 
Remember that the G35 specified all kinds of weights, depending upon where one was in the world. While some might argue that an SN/GF-5 5w-30 might be your most optimal choice, it's certainly not your only choice. My G37 has never consumed any measurable oil. I tell you one thing, though, I've never seen an engine get oil that hot before and that quickly.
 
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