What is the best wax to protect from the elements?

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Originally Posted By: BTLew81
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I think I am going to go with Klasse. Seems simple enough and provides good protection.

You'll probably be disappointed by it.


Critic...why? I dont want to start something here, but it seems like if it isn't a coating, its not good in your book. I agree that coatings have their benefits, but you said it yourself...many coatings lose their look as time goes on, just like a sealant or wax. Klasse, though "old," is still a great sealant. When layered, it will run with the best of them.

To the OP....Try Finish Kare 1000p. You'll get amazing durability, especially with two coats. It'll handle high temps and releases dirt extremely well.


Easy - it's the protection, durability and ease of maintenance.

Sure, glass coatings such as UK do lose their gloss as they age, but the dirt-repelling properties and ease of maintenance attribute stays intact. You won't find any sealant (or wax) that will last 1-2 years and give you strong protection the ENTIRE TIME.

If appearance is a big deal to you, then hit it with Reload or something like that periodically.
 
Good points...seriously. Coatings are just not for the weekend detailer. I've detailed for 15 years and have yet to use a coating. Not a huge reason, but I've considered cost, amount of prep, and other "downsides."

I've used reload...I think it is not great to work with, honestly. I've also seen a lot of differing opinions on the ease of use for the various coatings. One of the "easiest" appears to be the new DG coating, but the reviews are very mixed.

I think you can get many of the pluses of a coating by using something like FK1000P. Good look, great protection, long lasting, and it self cleans like a coating. Price is nice too.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Rejex is probably the most protective. It's an aviation product, originally designed to prevent jet exhaust from sticking into paint.

It works well on cars too.

My Cessna 177RG has very old paint. I buff it up and coat with rejex. It lasts longer than anything else I've tried.

Our Pilatus PC12 also does best with rejex.



I found Rejex to be very good. I tried Nufinish and wasn't impressed at all. The shine is not that good, and the water beads are very large as opposed to Rejex, and Collinite 845 which I also like. The water beads formed from those products are very small, and act almost like when Mercury is spilled on glass. OTOH the Nufinish beads are large and flat. Does that matter? I don't really know. I would think the smaller and tighter the beads the better the wax resists dirt and the elements. I do need some schooling on the topic though.



Rejex would be my choice.

It's a polish and needs a 12 hour cure time.

It's the best I've found at repelling environmental damage.

Of course when it comes to auto waxes and polishes, everyone has an opinion.
 
If I lived in Florida I would try the two part duragloss product. I am highly satisfied with the collinite 476, but its a paste wax and I live in a very different climate.

PS I mean their sealant with hardener not some high dollar thing.
 
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Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
If I lived in Florida I would try the two part duragloss product. I am highly satisfied with the collinite 476, but its a paste wax and I live in a very different climate.

PS I mean their sealant with hardener not some high dollar thing.



The 601/105 combo is the hardener/sealant.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Rejex is probably the most protective. It's an aviation product, originally designed to prevent jet exhaust from sticking into paint.

It works well on cars too.

My Cessna 177RG has very old paint. I buff it up and coat with rejex. It lasts longer than anything else I've tried.

Our Pilatus PC12 also does best with rejex.



I found Rejex to be very good. I tried Nufinish and wasn't impressed at all. The shine is not that good, and the water beads are very large as opposed to Rejex, and Collinite 845 which I also like. The water beads formed from those products are very small, and act almost like when Mercury is spilled on glass. OTOH the Nufinish beads are large and flat. Does that matter? I don't really know. I would think the smaller and tighter the beads the better the wax resists dirt and the elements. I do need some schooling on the topic though.



Rejex would be my choice.

It's a polish and needs a 12 hour cure time.

It's the best I've found at repelling environmental damage.

Of course when it comes to auto waxes and polishes, everyone has an opinion.


Which Rejex? I'm seeing several on Amazon. Thanks!
 
Hello all-

I am a detailer and paint correction guy and my absolute favorite is Oyster from Pearl products. It goes on as easy as a polish (no fussiness like Opti-coat), however it protects like a sealant. I have used many sealants and I love this stuff much, much more.

My customers love it and the shine is awesome. Works great here in the sunny high elevations of CO and is easily maintained with the Nano waterless carwash.

I was buying it from the UK and it is now available in the US with much cheaper shipping.

www.pearlusa.net
 
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Originally Posted By: Zeus33
Originally Posted By: jimbrewer
If I lived in Florida I would try the two part duragloss product. I am highly satisfied with the collinite 476, but its a paste wax and I live in a very different climate.

PS I mean their sealant with hardener not some high dollar thing.



The 601/105 combo is the hardener/sealant.


Thanks I'm always afraid to spout off the numbers from memory. I should add that Duragloss is pretty cost-competitive too.
 
Old guy here. having Parkinsons is no fun-but I still service our vechicles. I have been using the Mothers wash/wax w/carnuba.It is difficult to hand or power waxing for me. I have to say that without waxing by hand this stuff puts on a great shine, and the carnuba wax lasts at least 2 months. I have not had any paint detioration in 5yrs on my truck. I do wash maybe 2 times/month. I used a similar product on our motorhome w/carnuba and just wash/wax at same time.(it would take a week to wax it by hand). So I put 4 oz. Mothers wash/wax w/1 gal. water and a soft brush with telescoping handle.Works good for me. Motor home is 10 yrs old (although it stays in a building when not in use).
 
Originally Posted By: IveBeenRued
If you are looking for long lasting protection then Collinite 476. This stuff is made in Utica, NY and they sure know their waxes, it will last about two years (even through central NY winters). This stuff is also great for painted wheels.

http://www.autogeek.net/collinite-super-doublecoat--wax-476.html


2yrs? Maybe a year. I applied two thick coats on my Golf last September and at the beginning of August it was barely beading when water was applied to the surface. I still love the collinite products. I also use the 845 regularly. To protect the surface of the car from the winter elements in Canada's rust belt. I start with the Klasse Twins (2-3 coats of Gloss) then a coat of 845. Lasts the whole winter and well into the spring.
 
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Collinite 845 is just the liquid form of 476 as per Collinite web site. I've been very satisfied with its durability, as have most, but expecting a year is unrealistic. Four-five or even six months is more realistic.

Double waxing like that is out of the question for me. I just don't have the time nor the patience. Besides, there is a good chance the chemicals on the top wax will undo the chemicals of the sealant underneath it, unless its a completely inert carnauba wax (which Collinite is not). I'll bet the Klasse would do fine by itself.
 
For a wax Collinite 476 or 845 or Finish Kare Hi Temp Wax are good options.

I have also been very impressed with the Duragloss 105 all in one.

If you want a Wal Mart available wax/sealant the Megiuars Ultimate Liquid Wax is pretty darn good also.
 
This is what I do to both my cars and my boats....and I get really great, long lasting results:

1.) Strip car clean with Dawn Dish Soap
2.) Do any paint correction that is needed with polish
3.) Re-Wash car/boat with Dawn and dry with towels
4.) Wipe car/boat down with virgin rags soaked in 99% isopropyl alcohol found at the drug store
5.) Apply a coat of ReJex per directions
6.) Keep vehicle dry (no morning dew) and reapply a second coat of ReJex the following day.
7.) After another day of curing, I top coat the ReJex with a layer or two of either Collinine 476 or 915.

As far as just wax does....I ALWAYS find in my limited experience that paste is better than liquid. So, stick with #476 or #915. With Collinite paste waxes, the KEY is to do a small section at a time, and buff the wax off before it hardens.
 
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Originally Posted By: Roob
Collinite 845 and a quick wax like ice spray wax with UVA and UVB protection, 303 has a quick detailer with spf40.
Whatever you use, maintenance is key.



+1
 
Belive it or not regular Turtle wax holds up very well. I have seen consumer report tests where they test car wax all different brands and I was shocked at the results.

I use AIO, Meguiars Cleaner wax

and Regular Super Hard Shell Turtle wax..

and Spray on Turtle wax is the best fast was I have ever used.

3M Cleaner Wax I read is good but expensive and Mother Cleaner Wax is good.

However Meguiars Cleaner Wax seems to be the best deal for AIO / ALL IN ONE.

Also you can try the cheapest Carnuba wax and was very pleased. The name is called
Kit - Carnauba Paste Wax only $2.99 at oreilly auto. This stuff the more you use the more shiny your paiint gets... very good for the $.. but once the car has been cleaned and had a AIO done.... very good to keep your shine.... For people out there who want to save $... The brands that cost 25$ IMO thats just to much $...

I used to detail cars at Dans Auto Sales.... We used to use Product X via the Buffer and then Meguiars wax that came in a blue can.. This was years ago when i used to detail cars for a living... If a car came in that was very bad we would use compound and had to tape off the pin stripe if the car had pin stripe.. Plus Clear coat was new back then. Most cars had Lacquer paint jobs and boy the more you waxed Lacquer paint the better it looked... I remember the older cars would come in looking like they needed a new paint job and after we would compound it and polish and wax it looked brand new...

Todays paint jobs your not even getting to the paint.. its all clear coat before the paint and if the clear coat is gone the paint is exposed so lots have changed...
 
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Collinite 845 has a cult status when it comes to longest lasting wax that isn't so difficult to apply.

Duragloss 501 has also reached cult status when it comes to sealants, which generally will outlast waxes.

These are the only two products I use now to protect my vehicles---no more need to experiment.
 
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