Glock probably does not want steel cased ammo because the steel ammo wears extractors a little bit faster and they probably don't want to have people try try to warranty the pistol for it. That or they simply don't trust the people that brought you Chernobyl to make consistent quality ammo.
Bought a Glock 19
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I've owned about 40-50 Glocks in my lifetime, and have shot at least 100K rounds, maybe 200K rounds through them. I like to think that I have extensive knowledge of this subject.
1) Steel cased ammo is fine for the range. Not for self defense. Just yesterday I went to the range and shot up 50 rounds of Brown Bear 9mm through a Sig P226. 3 rounds failed to fire. Diagnosis: Proper firing pin strikes, excessively hard primers on the Russian ammo. You can get brass cased or Aluminum cased Blazer for a few cents more per round. Avoid the steel case ammo if your budget allows you to spend a few extra dollars. If you already have the ammo, then you might as well shoot it up.
2) Glock cheapened their extractors from machined bar stock to MIM (metal injection molding). It is well known that Glock MIM extractors wear pretty quickly, especially when shooting steel case ammo.
3) Glock pistols were designed in Austria to use European spec ammo. American spec ammo is not as powerful as European spec ammo. People break their $500 Glock pistols in with garbage ammo and then complain when the pistol doesn't function as expected. Try and find a nice hot Italian made Fiocchi or 9MM NATO round to shoot for the first 200 rounds. (9MM NATO is loaded similarly to a 124+p)
1) Steel cased ammo is fine for the range. Not for self defense. Just yesterday I went to the range and shot up 50 rounds of Brown Bear 9mm through a Sig P226. 3 rounds failed to fire. Diagnosis: Proper firing pin strikes, excessively hard primers on the Russian ammo. You can get brass cased or Aluminum cased Blazer for a few cents more per round. Avoid the steel case ammo if your budget allows you to spend a few extra dollars. If you already have the ammo, then you might as well shoot it up.
2) Glock cheapened their extractors from machined bar stock to MIM (metal injection molding). It is well known that Glock MIM extractors wear pretty quickly, especially when shooting steel case ammo.
3) Glock pistols were designed in Austria to use European spec ammo. American spec ammo is not as powerful as European spec ammo. People break their $500 Glock pistols in with garbage ammo and then complain when the pistol doesn't function as expected. Try and find a nice hot Italian made Fiocchi or 9MM NATO round to shoot for the first 200 rounds. (9MM NATO is loaded similarly to a 124+p)
Ruskie ammo does have hard primers. I had to put a more powerful hammmer spring in my M1 Carbine to shoot the Wolf 30 carbine rounds.
And ditto on the difference between Euro and American ammo. I remember my grandpa telling me he had a terrible time getting his P08 to shoot regular off the shelf 9mm back in the day.
And ditto on the difference between Euro and American ammo. I remember my grandpa telling me he had a terrible time getting his P08 to shoot regular off the shelf 9mm back in the day.
A great way to tune your gun to different ammo loads is by replacing the recoil spring. I switched from an 18# spring in my CZ to a 13# spring, and some guys go as low as 11#. Fortunately, the ISMI Glock 17 springs fit the CZs a treat. The gun operates very smoothly with the lighter spring, and 115gr casings eject with a nice sharp snap to them now. Like many Euro guns, the CZs have somewhat "tight" recoil springs to handle hotter loads.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
A great way to tune your gun to different ammo loads is by replacing the recoil spring. I switched from an 18# spring in my CZ to a 13# spring, and some guys go as low as 11#. Fortunately, the ISMI Glock 17 springs fit the CZs a treat. The gun operates very smoothly with the lighter spring, and 115gr casings eject with a nice sharp snap to them now. Like many Euro guns, the CZs have somewhat "tight" recoil springs to handle hotter loads.
I had the opposite issue with my CZ. I had to spring it heavier. The OEM recoil spring on my CZ40B would not strip the rounds from the mag. I had to go up 2lbs on the recoil spring.
A great way to tune your gun to different ammo loads is by replacing the recoil spring. I switched from an 18# spring in my CZ to a 13# spring, and some guys go as low as 11#. Fortunately, the ISMI Glock 17 springs fit the CZs a treat. The gun operates very smoothly with the lighter spring, and 115gr casings eject with a nice sharp snap to them now. Like many Euro guns, the CZs have somewhat "tight" recoil springs to handle hotter loads.
I had the opposite issue with my CZ. I had to spring it heavier. The OEM recoil spring on my CZ40B would not strip the rounds from the mag. I had to go up 2lbs on the recoil spring.
Update: I went back and looked in my Glock 19 OM. the only prohibition is against unjacketed lead bullets. No mention of steel cases.
So, avoid the lead bullets, and shoot whatever style case you please for plinking.
As has been said, the best defensive ammo is all brass case...choose it carefully...make sure it works well in your Glock and keep it clean and dry.
So, avoid the lead bullets, and shoot whatever style case you please for plinking.
As has been said, the best defensive ammo is all brass case...choose it carefully...make sure it works well in your Glock and keep it clean and dry.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
I've owned about 40-50 Glocks in my lifetime, and have shot at least 100K rounds, maybe 200K rounds through them. I like to think that I have extensive knowledge of this subject.
1) Steel cased ammo is fine for the range. Not for self defense. Just yesterday I went to the range and shot up 50 rounds of Brown Bear 9mm through a Sig P226. 3 rounds failed to fire. Diagnosis: Proper firing pin strikes, excessively hard primers on the Russian ammo. You can get brass cased or Aluminum cased Blazer for a few cents more per round. Avoid the steel case ammo if your budget allows you to spend a few extra dollars. If you already have the ammo, then you might as well shoot it up.
2) Glock cheapened their extractors from machined bar stock to MIM (metal injection molding). It is well known that Glock MIM extractors wear pretty quickly, especially when shooting steel case ammo.
3) Glock pistols were designed in Austria to use European spec ammo. American spec ammo is not as powerful as European spec ammo. People break their $500 Glock pistols in with garbage ammo and then complain when the pistol doesn't function as expected. Try and find a nice hot Italian made Fiocchi or 9MM NATO round to shoot for the first 200 rounds. (9MM NATO is loaded similarly to a 124+p)
What difference would it make as far as break-in of a pistol for the first 200 rds to be hotter loads?
I've owned about 40-50 Glocks in my lifetime, and have shot at least 100K rounds, maybe 200K rounds through them. I like to think that I have extensive knowledge of this subject.
1) Steel cased ammo is fine for the range. Not for self defense. Just yesterday I went to the range and shot up 50 rounds of Brown Bear 9mm through a Sig P226. 3 rounds failed to fire. Diagnosis: Proper firing pin strikes, excessively hard primers on the Russian ammo. You can get brass cased or Aluminum cased Blazer for a few cents more per round. Avoid the steel case ammo if your budget allows you to spend a few extra dollars. If you already have the ammo, then you might as well shoot it up.
2) Glock cheapened their extractors from machined bar stock to MIM (metal injection molding). It is well known that Glock MIM extractors wear pretty quickly, especially when shooting steel case ammo.
3) Glock pistols were designed in Austria to use European spec ammo. American spec ammo is not as powerful as European spec ammo. People break their $500 Glock pistols in with garbage ammo and then complain when the pistol doesn't function as expected. Try and find a nice hot Italian made Fiocchi or 9MM NATO round to shoot for the first 200 rounds. (9MM NATO is loaded similarly to a 124+p)
What difference would it make as far as break-in of a pistol for the first 200 rds to be hotter loads?
Sometimes a hotter load will make a gun that is rough and needs a "run in" function better during the break in. Most guns today really do not need to be broken in to be reliable, but you still should test them before you trust your life with them.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Sometimes a hotter load will make a gun that is rough and needs a "run in" function better during the break in. Most guns today really do not need to be broken in to be reliable, but you still should test them before you trust your life with them.
I don't see that making a difference. The parts are going to polish one another as the gun operates regardless of the horsepower of the rounds being shot through it.
Sometimes a hotter load will make a gun that is rough and needs a "run in" function better during the break in. Most guns today really do not need to be broken in to be reliable, but you still should test them before you trust your life with them.
I don't see that making a difference. The parts are going to polish one another as the gun operates regardless of the horsepower of the rounds being shot through it.
Yes...they eventually will. But you may have a few more issues on a rough gun until they polish. I had a CZ that would not eat anything but hot loads. I eventually got rid of it for that very reason.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Yes...they eventually will. But you may have a few more issues on a rough gun until they polish. I had a CZ that would not eat anything but hot loads. I eventually got rid of it for that very reason.
Sounds like the recoil spring might have been a little too stiff.
Yes...they eventually will. But you may have a few more issues on a rough gun until they polish. I had a CZ that would not eat anything but hot loads. I eventually got rid of it for that very reason.
Sounds like the recoil spring might have been a little too stiff.
I tried swapping it in for a lighter one...then it would not reliably feed from the factory magazines.
Originally Posted By: john_pifer
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
I've owned about 40-50 Glocks in my lifetime, and have shot at least 100K rounds, maybe 200K rounds through them. I like to think that I have extensive knowledge of this subject.
3) Glock pistols were designed in Austria to use European spec ammo. American spec ammo is not as powerful as European spec ammo. People break their $500 Glock pistols in with garbage ammo and then complain when the pistol doesn't function as expected. Try and find a nice hot Italian made Fiocchi or 9MM NATO round to shoot for the first 200 rounds. (9MM NATO is loaded similarly to a 124+p)
What difference would it make as far as break-in of a pistol for the first 200 rds to be hotter loads?
Based on what I have seen, new Glocks are over sprung, recoil spring wise, for typical made in America FMJ when new. The springs rapidly settle it after about 200-500 rounds and will function better with light loads. It's a personal preference of mine to shoot 9mm NATO or 124+p through these guns for at least the first 200 rounds.
Also, lots and lots of reports of guys on Glocktalk with problems while breaking in their new Glock (brass to face, erratic extraction, not loading next round, etc) . I am confident that they would have had zero problems had they followed my advice and shot some hot ammo for the first 200 rounds.
This advice really applies to any new pistol, really, not just Glocks.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
I've owned about 40-50 Glocks in my lifetime, and have shot at least 100K rounds, maybe 200K rounds through them. I like to think that I have extensive knowledge of this subject.
3) Glock pistols were designed in Austria to use European spec ammo. American spec ammo is not as powerful as European spec ammo. People break their $500 Glock pistols in with garbage ammo and then complain when the pistol doesn't function as expected. Try and find a nice hot Italian made Fiocchi or 9MM NATO round to shoot for the first 200 rounds. (9MM NATO is loaded similarly to a 124+p)
What difference would it make as far as break-in of a pistol for the first 200 rds to be hotter loads?
Based on what I have seen, new Glocks are over sprung, recoil spring wise, for typical made in America FMJ when new. The springs rapidly settle it after about 200-500 rounds and will function better with light loads. It's a personal preference of mine to shoot 9mm NATO or 124+p through these guns for at least the first 200 rounds.
Also, lots and lots of reports of guys on Glocktalk with problems while breaking in their new Glock (brass to face, erratic extraction, not loading next round, etc) . I am confident that they would have had zero problems had they followed my advice and shot some hot ammo for the first 200 rounds.
This advice really applies to any new pistol, really, not just Glocks.
Interesting advice.
My wife's Beretta had a distaste for PMC 9mm ball ammo at first. I just don't use it any more. Worked just fine from round 1 when using Winchester White Box or any hollowpoint defense load. It was clear from examination that the slide wasn't fully cycling...the strong recoil spring you mention.
But I have never had a single problem with any of my Glocks ever. Not the 17, 19, 20, or 23...they have been flawless with every round of every type, from FMJs to defense loads...
My wife's Beretta had a distaste for PMC 9mm ball ammo at first. I just don't use it any more. Worked just fine from round 1 when using Winchester White Box or any hollowpoint defense load. It was clear from examination that the slide wasn't fully cycling...the strong recoil spring you mention.
But I have never had a single problem with any of my Glocks ever. Not the 17, 19, 20, or 23...they have been flawless with every round of every type, from FMJs to defense loads...
Originally Posted By: Astro14
But I have never had a single problem with any of my Glocks ever. Not the 17, 19, 20, or 23...they have been flawless with every round of every type, from FMJs to defense loads...
Me either, I have 3 and they have never failed to digest anything I stuffed in them without issue. I only use factory rounds in my semi-auto's though.
But I have never had a single problem with any of my Glocks ever. Not the 17, 19, 20, or 23...they have been flawless with every round of every type, from FMJs to defense loads...
Me either, I have 3 and they have never failed to digest anything I stuffed in them without issue. I only use factory rounds in my semi-auto's though.
Only time I ever have issues with my 23 is if it is really limp wristed and that will cause a stovepipe.
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