Oil temp and water temp are two different thing,on my Cummins isx the oil sweet spot is 225 f .the water?180 f but should be 160 ,the fuel?should also be at 160f .so oil temp in all this?still 225 f.
Mobil 1 5w30 consumption.
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Keep in mind though that HTO-06 isn't the only high heat deposit control test.
Yes, sure. I just used HTO-06 as an example of a certification that pays attention on high heat deposits. Of course, there are many other parameters.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
This is one of the reasons I have a very hard time accepting varnish as "harmless". Because if you see it, then it is elsewhere in the engine, and if it is in the piston/ring-land area, it has the potential to affect compression, oil drain-back and generally lead to poorer performance and possibly consumption.
I've never considered varnish as harmless. The simplest explanation is that varnish prevents proper cooling of pistons and rings. Consider it as a blanket: usually heat exchange chain is "piston->rings->cylinder wall->coolant". If rings are covered by varnish, less heat comes out, higher piston and rings temperature, more varnish and deposits sits on piston and rings and another loop started.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
The thing is, my friend who had the mess of an engine didn't run synthetic in it, only conventional. But I don't think that was the problem.
IMO, this is always a compromise. Using some synthetic oils tends to heat deposits, conventional oils leaves varnish. Also not any car can work with dyno.
When I many years ago came here I was surprised that nobody flush engine during oil change. This is a common practice in Russia even now, and a number of flush service oils is available. This cleans varnish from the engine and removes the rest of dirty oil. Because of no such oils are available here, I would recommend to use LIQUI MOLY Pro Line Engine Flush. Please, no Gunk Flush
It is just a solvent, but German product has over 4000 ppm of moly.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I've never torn down, or been involved in the tear-down/witnessed the tear-down of an engine that was clean and also had stuck rings or plugged oil return holes. But all the ones that HAVE had that problem had one thing in common: varnish.
I had exactly this situation on my Maxima 2005 (traded-in now). Engine was perfectly clean, but oil consumption was more than a liter per 1000 miles. Changing PCV did not help, compression was 245 psi (!!). Pure oil compression. Of course, catalytic got spoiled too. And this happen on 108k miles only.
So what is a resume of my long talk? Keeping engine healthy is not as simple as 1-2-3, especially if the car has direct injection and/or turbo. The approach "I bought a barrel of oil on a sale because it was dirty cheap" could work, but this is not my way. And if we keep in mind that neither manufacture nor dealer needs you car lasts longer, this becomes not a trivial task. Much more complex than "read your manual and use what is written there".
Keep in mind though that HTO-06 isn't the only high heat deposit control test.
Yes, sure. I just used HTO-06 as an example of a certification that pays attention on high heat deposits. Of course, there are many other parameters.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
This is one of the reasons I have a very hard time accepting varnish as "harmless". Because if you see it, then it is elsewhere in the engine, and if it is in the piston/ring-land area, it has the potential to affect compression, oil drain-back and generally lead to poorer performance and possibly consumption.
I've never considered varnish as harmless. The simplest explanation is that varnish prevents proper cooling of pistons and rings. Consider it as a blanket: usually heat exchange chain is "piston->rings->cylinder wall->coolant". If rings are covered by varnish, less heat comes out, higher piston and rings temperature, more varnish and deposits sits on piston and rings and another loop started.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
The thing is, my friend who had the mess of an engine didn't run synthetic in it, only conventional. But I don't think that was the problem.
IMO, this is always a compromise. Using some synthetic oils tends to heat deposits, conventional oils leaves varnish. Also not any car can work with dyno.
When I many years ago came here I was surprised that nobody flush engine during oil change. This is a common practice in Russia even now, and a number of flush service oils is available. This cleans varnish from the engine and removes the rest of dirty oil. Because of no such oils are available here, I would recommend to use LIQUI MOLY Pro Line Engine Flush. Please, no Gunk Flush
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I've never torn down, or been involved in the tear-down/witnessed the tear-down of an engine that was clean and also had stuck rings or plugged oil return holes. But all the ones that HAVE had that problem had one thing in common: varnish.
I had exactly this situation on my Maxima 2005 (traded-in now). Engine was perfectly clean, but oil consumption was more than a liter per 1000 miles. Changing PCV did not help, compression was 245 psi (!!). Pure oil compression. Of course, catalytic got spoiled too. And this happen on 108k miles only.
So what is a resume of my long talk? Keeping engine healthy is not as simple as 1-2-3, especially if the car has direct injection and/or turbo. The approach "I bought a barrel of oil on a sale because it was dirty cheap" could work, but this is not my way. And if we keep in mind that neither manufacture nor dealer needs you car lasts longer, this becomes not a trivial task. Much more complex than "read your manual and use what is written there".
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
I just filled with the new PP and the usage is above normal. I will continue with 3 OCIs and see how it goes. The FRN deal makes it a cheap experiment.
How do you get in on the FRN deal? I am already an FRN member.
Can you PM me the details?
I just filled with the new PP and the usage is above normal. I will continue with 3 OCIs and see how it goes. The FRN deal makes it a cheap experiment.
How do you get in on the FRN deal? I am already an FRN member.
Can you PM me the details?
Originally Posted By: timeau
Completely opposite. High heat deposits don't come from conventional oil. They comes from some synthetic oil.
Right....
Completely opposite. High heat deposits don't come from conventional oil. They comes from some synthetic oil.
Right....
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: timeau
Completely opposite. High heat deposits don't come from conventional oil. They comes from some synthetic oil.
Right....
Agreed. It must be correct, I hear they even used the "burn it on a spoon" test!
Originally Posted By: timeau
Completely opposite. High heat deposits don't come from conventional oil. They comes from some synthetic oil.
Right....
Agreed. It must be correct, I hear they even used the "burn it on a spoon" test!
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: timeau
Completely opposite. High heat deposits don't come from conventional oil. They comes from some synthetic oil.
Right....
Agreed. It must be correct, I hear they even used the "burn it on a spoon" test!
LOL, so does he get the award?
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: timeau
Completely opposite. High heat deposits don't come from conventional oil. They comes from some synthetic oil.
Right....
Agreed. It must be correct, I hear they even used the "burn it on a spoon" test!
LOL, so does he get the award?
Last edited:
MrQuackers
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Originally Posted By: GM4LIFE
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
I just filled with the new PP and the usage is above normal. I will continue with 3 OCIs and see how it goes. The FRN deal makes it a cheap experiment.
How do you get in on the FRN deal? I am already an FRN member.
Can you PM me the details?
You need to find a jug with the sticker affixed that says Save $1/gal on Shell fuel. Next, carefuly twist the cap and feel for resistance to confirm that the seal is intact. The 10 digit code is on the cap. Enter it on your FRN dashboard.
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
I just filled with the new PP and the usage is above normal. I will continue with 3 OCIs and see how it goes. The FRN deal makes it a cheap experiment.
How do you get in on the FRN deal? I am already an FRN member.
Can you PM me the details?
You need to find a jug with the sticker affixed that says Save $1/gal on Shell fuel. Next, carefuly twist the cap and feel for resistance to confirm that the seal is intact. The 10 digit code is on the cap. Enter it on your FRN dashboard.
My cars a 2012 Hyundai veloster, 50,000 miles. I changed the pcv valve today even though the one I took out was fine. Im gonna do a oil change this weekend. I got a qt and a half of mobil 1 5w30 left so ill pick up a jug of syntec or qsud and mix em and see what happens between my next oci. Or I just might use the qsud and see what happens. Im not too worried , like I said it was only about a quarter to a half qt low. Thing is the car only holds 3.3 qts with filter.
Originally Posted By: waltywalt
I got a qt and a half of mobil 1 5w30 left so ill pick up a jug of syntec or qsud and mix em and see what happens between my next oci.
IMO, mixing a barrel of mead and a barrel of sh..t have a result of two barrels of sh..t
JK.
I know that oils should be compatible, but this does not make sence, IMO. Just keep adding Mobil1 for now. It should become better 2-3 oil changing from now.
Please, feed my curiosity: which oil did you use before? I mean since that time when you bought it?
Thank in advance.
I got a qt and a half of mobil 1 5w30 left so ill pick up a jug of syntec or qsud and mix em and see what happens between my next oci.
IMO, mixing a barrel of mead and a barrel of sh..t have a result of two barrels of sh..t
JK.I know that oils should be compatible, but this does not make sence, IMO. Just keep adding Mobil1 for now. It should become better 2-3 oil changing from now.
Please, feed my curiosity: which oil did you use before? I mean since that time when you bought it?
Thank in advance.
Ive used qsud. PP.PU. Castrol syntec. Valvoline syn. car quest syn all In the 5w30 flavor. Ps I don't think the engines leaking because there is no oil on the ground. At first I thought it was leaking because I saw black on the side of my engine but it turns out its from changing the filter I think. Still gonna bring to Hyundai for other things so I guess Ill find out or sure.
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