Divorcing Mobil 1

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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: DustyBones

Did you just say an OHC motor rod knocked? As in push rod? I never heard anyone call a knock in a OHC motor a rod knock.

*deleted irrelevant derp*


This is a connecting rod:

Image12.gif


It is what connects the piston to the crankshaft. When the rod bearings wear, you end up with rod knock.

But hey, just because you didn't know what a connecting rod was doesn't mean you weren't justified in ripping on Doug Hillary right?
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This is a push rod
prod1.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: DustyBones

No, you assume M1 does not cause extra wear proven in UOA


Actually, unlike you, I'm not relying on UOA's, I'm relying on actual tear-down data. If you had reading comprehension in-line with your trolling skills you would have noticed that.

Quote:
you assume it does not cause any extra noise any engine, you assume it does not consume in motors that never did before.


No, I clearly stated that my experience with 30+ engines didn't match those observations/claims that you made. I'm not assuming anything, just countering your idiocy.

Quote:
So I will assume he meant push rod. If it works for you, it for darn sure will work for me.


LOL! Yeah, because that's what anybody with even the most remote experience with engines would do, right champ?
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So you all convinced yourselves there is no extra wear.

Next up. Lets talk about my experience.

Why from the first start was there an instant ticking when I filled with M1 5w30?

Just answer why there was more noise right away. Then I will move onto the second observation made filling with M1 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: DustyBones

Did you just say an OHC motor rod knocked? As in push rod? I never heard anyone call a knock in a OHC motor a rod knock.

*deleted irrelevant derp*


This is a connecting rod:

Image12.gif


It is what connects the piston to the crankshaft. When the rod bearings wear, you end up with rod knock.

But hey, just because you didn't know what a connecting rod was doesn't mean you weren't justified in ripping on Doug Hillary right?
smirk.gif



This is a push rod
prod1.jpg


Which has nothing to do with rod knock.

https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100104151400AAHtKFv
http://repairpal.com/engine-knocking

Quote:
Internal Mechanical Problems
Internal mechanical problems can also cause engine knocking. One such problem stems from excessive clearance inside the bearings in the connecting rods that transfer the downward movement of the pistons to crankshaft rotation. Each time the piston changes direction, there is a knock from the metal hitting metal. This is often referred to as a "rod knock." It is usually very rhythmic—it increases with engine speed and intensifies with engine load.


http://www.aa1car.com/library/engine_noise.htm
Quote:
A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.
 
The song and dance has grown tedious, fast. Like QP said, stop feeding him, he's only enjoying raising the ire of all involved and has no interest in the transfer of information.
 
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Where is the additional wear?


http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Iron_in_Used_Motor_Oil_Analysis.aspx

Read the long non answer answer. They say something like if you do not drive like a grandma and do not work the vehicle hard the extra wear numbers are nothing to worry about. Then blabber about things the person did not ask about. Pretty much like the non response replies here why the fans4life club members advise people to keep filling the motor with it when they experience the extra noise, consumption and extra iron in the UOA. Sounds like a plan for someone who plans on not owning a vehicle very long. Like the guy with a rod knocking DOHC motor. Yup, he IS the guy I will listen to.


Keep trolling and digging a larger hole for yourself. Especially since you have called me a M-1 fan
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. Nothing could be further from the truth. The difference between you and I is this. I know M-1 is a good product it I just refuse to buy it and I will not discourage someone else from using it. You attempt to debate Doug Hillary on engine wear and telling him to look up UOA data was hilarious. Now you are debating OVERKILL on engine design your latest debate is not hilarious just amusing(no offense to OVERKILL). Carry on PLEASE!
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Where is this extra where? Oh where?

I can't type today.
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Where is this extra where, or this extra wear is where? By the way, I almost did it again.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Here's another thread that will become an epic waste of bandwidth.


I disagree. It is quite funny IMO.


I guess. It gets tiring though, because they all seem to follow a similar pattern.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
No, you assume M1 does not cause extra wear proven in UOA....

UOAs do not quantify wear.


I hear the echo too Garak,
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Here's another thread that will become an epic waste of bandwidth.


I disagree. It is quite funny IMO.


I guess. It gets tiring though, because they all seem to follow a similar pattern.


You have a very valid point. The only thing that concerns me is when this guy creates multiple profiles at the same time and starts to post replies to himself. I just find that pretty strange.
 
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Here's another thread that will become an epic waste of bandwidth.


I disagree. It is quite funny IMO.


I guess. It gets tiring though, because they all seem to follow a similar pattern.


You have a very valid point. The only thing that concerns me is when this guy creates multiple profiles at the same time and starts to post replies to himself. I just find that pretty strange.


I hear ya, or like the re-incarnates that think they have all of us duped. You can't beat a good ignore list, I might be adding to mine shortly.
 
Let's be honest: these days, all name-brand oils are really good, including "conventional oils". If an oil meets the OEM specs, the level is kept full and it's changed at the specified or appropriate OCI, it's incredibly unlikely that any engine will never suffer a lubrication-related failure (and if it does, brand of oil will certainly have nothing to do with it).

Given that, what else are you gonna talk about besides nonsense like this?!?

I do love the stuff regarding "engine noise" and brand of oil though. It's always interesting to see psychoacoustics in action...
 
Hey, if someone likes a bottle color better or thinks an oil sounds different, or chooses on price, so be it. Claiming extra wear for a functionally equivalent lubricant is just silly, though.
 
Originally Posted By: DustyBones
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Originally Posted By: DustyBones



I must say this is the funniest thing I have read in a while. I will tell you this. Your oil god you bow to has not run it in a E-TEC II motor where it showed instant clatter and rough idle and poor fully warmed up performance. I have. Would you use that oil again, no matter the brand? Would you run it 30,000 miles because someone online says its normal for a superior oil to exhibit such traits? Heck no. Then when people come here and post [censored] man, yall said this iis the oil the gods use, why is my car so noisy now, drink the oil and run rough. Then the fans come in with run it for 20,000-30,000 miles. Yeah right. Somehow it will smooth out after 30,000 miles. Say what? All that tells me is hey man, let the sludge build up so it can dampen the noise. No way 30,000 miles of a noisy oil will magicaly get more quiet as you use it.

The real trolls are the ones handing out faulty advice to keep filling the motor with it. That is some seriously flawed advice. Also observe I never tell anyone to use my brand because the high iron in a UOA is normal in superior oil, the consumtion is more than normal over your old fill and the noise will become normal to you over time. I have only said use what works best in your application. If M1 works fine for you with extra noise and consumption then good for you. Not for me. (I am talking about me, not you)

Just get it through your head. I will bow, I will not convert. My Harley told me it likes VR1 best, so I use it. The Primary and trans told me to use Formula+. so I use that. CHM runs better in the car than M1 does, so I use it. It will never go in the truck. I wont risk the wasted money on it from hearing it in similar trucks that are used for working and not to go to starbucks for a half caf no milk latte as the heaviest load it will haul.

Some people prefer personal experience for the choices they make over what a fan club says on the internet. Nothing wrong with that. It is obvious the OP has an issue with the performance of M1, the fan boys say no way, its the best ever, dont use anything else it will hurt my (your) feelings. Who cares, its his truck, more than likely it will run better on something else.


FWIW, we had a D-TEC engine (same as the E-TEC) in a 2001 Daewoo Leganza with under 100,000 miles on it and even with regular maintenance (oil changes in less than 5,000 miles, sometimes with synthetic) the rods started knocking horribly before we eventually unloaded it for a fraction of what we paid. I think those engines are just pretty garbage, IMO.

I've never noticed a difference in engine noise/vibrations/performance between oils in any engine I've ever maintained.
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Did you just say an OHC motor rod knocked? As in push rod? I never heard anyone call a knock in a OHC motor a rod knock.

I bet if you would not have ran M1 in it, it would have been fine. I doubt mine would have lasted this long running that oil in it. FWIW I had that motor in another car and it got destroyed in a crash. It ran so well on GTX for 200,000 miles with nothing but oil and spark plug changes on the motor, I bought another one. Same story. Lasting a loooong time on GTX. Same plan. Plugs and the oil every 7500 miles. I never heard of someone dumping a car or motor because they ran the wrong oil, but to each their own.

Edit. When I did the last timing belt on it I changed the valve cover gasket from a tiny weep around one of the plugs. Inside looked great, but that was done long before I knew such M1 fan clubs exsistd. Shoulda taken pics, but even then I would be called a liar. No way anyother oil than M1 has a motor look that clean on part syn oil for 7500 mile OCIs.

The fans are always right lmao.



The valve train in our Daewoo was very clean, too. I never ran Mobil 1 in it. Thanks for assuming, though. BTW, push rods are not the same as connecting rods.
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Also, I do not believe the failure was due to the type of oil used. More than likely, the oil pump or filter failed, water somehow got ingested, or there was a manufacturing defect.
 
I'm not throwing any Stones at anyone here!
This was taken from the 2013 GT-R Owners Manual!

M1 has the Confidence and Trust of Nissan Engineers for there VR38 Engine that they spent 5 years developing!

I {Myself} need no other evidence!

Mobil 1 (0W-40) (100% synthetic) is
the factory fill oil. The VR38 engine
with its plasma-sprayed bores was
developed using this oil. NISSAN
cannot ensure proper engine opera-
tion and durability if other 0W-40
synthetic oil is used. If Mobil 1 (0W-
40) is not available, Mobil 1 (10W-
40) (100% synthetic) may be used;
however, some performance loss
may be noticed.

The 2015 Owners Manual States the Exact Same Info!
 
I think Dusty should switch all his cars to run City Star oil. He is in MI afterall..hopefully he can still find it somewhere.
 
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