Wow, good find. I ordered a bunch of stuff from them last week not realizing they carry this item, too. Thanks.
Door rubber gasket care
- Thread starter Quattro Pete
- Start date
- Status
Wow, good find. I ordered a bunch of stuff from them last week not realizing they carry this item, too. Thanks.
Pelicanparts, to my knowledge, does not sell the original gel like BMW gummi-fledge. it is either the IZ or Wurth product. Howerver, if they do, I am right on it!!
BTW, I think BMW USA sells a seal conditioner in a spray can for about $15.00. I have two cans which was sent over from Germany.
BTW, I think BMW USA sells a seal conditioner in a spray can for about $15.00. I have two cans which was sent over from Germany.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
I always wipe the seals down with leather conditioner (doors,windows,t-tops,etc). Still like brand new!
neither have i, but after reading through this thread i checked out their site and they offer a sample pack of 6 or 8 items in their product line for $5. i just sent in a check the other day and will give them a shot at earning my business.
Just as an update, based on suggestions from another BMW forum, I purchased Door-Ease (had to special-order it through Ace Hardware) and applied it to the felt-type material at the top of each door. The creaking has stopped. Let's see for how long...
Quattro Pete, any updates on how the Door Ease has worked for you? My F150 extended cab (aka Supercab) has creaky weather strip which returns after a week or two every time.
Go with Einszett, great stuff and available on Amazon...
einszett 914806 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz-$8.86
I use it on my Accord door seals and it stopped the rubbing noise on my passenger door.
einszett 914806 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz-$8.86
I use it on my Accord door seals and it stopped the rubbing noise on my passenger door.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Just as an update, based on suggestions from another BMW forum, I purchased Door-Ease (had to special-order it through Ace Hardware) and applied it to the felt-type material at the top of each door. The creaking has stopped. Let's see for how long...
Checking MSDS, it looks like hydrotreated oil with parrifin. Not sure Id want the oily component on the seals.
I had read once that rendered fat/tallow can cover/coat the seals and do well for keeping them from sicking. I think some variants of tallow won't go rancid.
Im still looking into the use of DOT 5 brake fluid, however there is concern that there may be plasticizer in it that could soften paint.
Just as an update, based on suggestions from another BMW forum, I purchased Door-Ease (had to special-order it through Ace Hardware) and applied it to the felt-type material at the top of each door. The creaking has stopped. Let's see for how long...
Checking MSDS, it looks like hydrotreated oil with parrifin. Not sure Id want the oily component on the seals.
I had read once that rendered fat/tallow can cover/coat the seals and do well for keeping them from sicking. I think some variants of tallow won't go rancid.
Im still looking into the use of DOT 5 brake fluid, however there is concern that there may be plasticizer in it that could soften paint.
Great follow up JHZR2. It definitely smells like paraffin (at least to me), which would be alright in itself; would definitely want to avoid the hydrocarbons, though. Will continue my frequent silicone spray wipe downs.
Originally Posted By: benjamming
Door seals have been made from EPDM rubber for decades. Glycerol (glycerine) C3H8O3 is very compatible with EPDM & most everything. Maybe this is why it has been used in the past?
303 doesn't list their ingredients except as trade secret on their MSDS. Does anyone know what it contains especially for the UV treatment?
There's a thread about this very topic. For all the 303 die hards out there. You'll save a lot of money simply using Armor All. As far as all my research has gone into plastic protectants, all the milky white stuff seems to just be a silicone emulsion. Even the ones that claim UV protection don't seem to have any real specific UV absorbers but the silicone.
Door seals have been made from EPDM rubber for decades. Glycerol (glycerine) C3H8O3 is very compatible with EPDM & most everything. Maybe this is why it has been used in the past?
303 doesn't list their ingredients except as trade secret on their MSDS. Does anyone know what it contains especially for the UV treatment?
There's a thread about this very topic. For all the 303 die hards out there. You'll save a lot of money simply using Armor All. As far as all my research has gone into plastic protectants, all the milky white stuff seems to just be a silicone emulsion. Even the ones that claim UV protection don't seem to have any real specific UV absorbers but the silicone.
Originally Posted By: qwertydude
Originally Posted By: benjamming
Door seals have been made from EPDM rubber for decades. Glycerol (glycerine) C3H8O3 is very compatible with EPDM & most everything. Maybe this is why it has been used in the past?
303 doesn't list their ingredients except as trade secret on their MSDS. Does anyone know what it contains especially for the UV treatment?
There's a thread about this very topic. For all the 303 die hards out there. You'll save a lot of money simply using Armor All. As far as all my research has gone into plastic protectants, all the milky white stuff seems to just be a silicone emulsion. Even the ones that claim UV protection don't seem to have any real specific UV absorbers but the silicone.
Our Honda 1997 Civic sits outside 24/7, so it makes for a good test of the durability of rubber treatments. In the past, I have used Einszett GummiPlege with good results. During the hot summer, the door seals sometimes stick, especially the rear doors. Not wanting them to stick and rip is what led me to try different products on them. The Einszett works well, but after a short while they start sticking again. Next, I tried some silicone paste. It seemed to work okay, but I didn't care for the fact it didn't really seem to "soak in" and "condition" the rubber seals to keep them soft and flexible. It just seemed to sit on top of the rubber, but if it kept the doors from sticking, then I could be okay with it. But, after a couple of weeks, the doors were sticking.
Then, I tried Optimum Opti-bond tire gel on the rubber seals. I wasn't expecting dramatic results, but I was pleasantly surprised! Not only did the Opti-bond make the rubber look really good, (turned the rubber dark black) but it also "soaked in" and "conditioned" much better than I was expecting. So, I'm impressed so far.
Now, comes the real test, how long will it keep the door from sticking. It has been about a week and half and so far so good, we have been having temperatures in the mid 80's this week and we will have 90's this week. I'll give it a couple more weeks, if it doesn't stick after the 90 degree days, I'll have a winner!
Added benefit is Optimum states it has UV and ozone protectants!
Originally Posted By: benjamming
Door seals have been made from EPDM rubber for decades. Glycerol (glycerine) C3H8O3 is very compatible with EPDM & most everything. Maybe this is why it has been used in the past?
303 doesn't list their ingredients except as trade secret on their MSDS. Does anyone know what it contains especially for the UV treatment?
There's a thread about this very topic. For all the 303 die hards out there. You'll save a lot of money simply using Armor All. As far as all my research has gone into plastic protectants, all the milky white stuff seems to just be a silicone emulsion. Even the ones that claim UV protection don't seem to have any real specific UV absorbers but the silicone.
Our Honda 1997 Civic sits outside 24/7, so it makes for a good test of the durability of rubber treatments. In the past, I have used Einszett GummiPlege with good results. During the hot summer, the door seals sometimes stick, especially the rear doors. Not wanting them to stick and rip is what led me to try different products on them. The Einszett works well, but after a short while they start sticking again. Next, I tried some silicone paste. It seemed to work okay, but I didn't care for the fact it didn't really seem to "soak in" and "condition" the rubber seals to keep them soft and flexible. It just seemed to sit on top of the rubber, but if it kept the doors from sticking, then I could be okay with it. But, after a couple of weeks, the doors were sticking.
Then, I tried Optimum Opti-bond tire gel on the rubber seals. I wasn't expecting dramatic results, but I was pleasantly surprised! Not only did the Opti-bond make the rubber look really good, (turned the rubber dark black) but it also "soaked in" and "conditioned" much better than I was expecting. So, I'm impressed so far.
Now, comes the real test, how long will it keep the door from sticking. It has been about a week and half and so far so good, we have been having temperatures in the mid 80's this week and we will have 90's this week. I'll give it a couple more weeks, if it doesn't stick after the 90 degree days, I'll have a winner!
Added benefit is Optimum states it has UV and ozone protectants!
Last edited:
Aren't most vehicle sitting in the sun during the day? I understand sticking doors when the temperature are freezing and causing the doors to ice up. I had not come across anybody saying that keeping the vehicle in 80-90 heat during the daytime causes the door to stick.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Aren't most vehicle sitting in the sun during the day? I understand sticking doors when the temperature are freezing and causing the doors to ice up. I had not come across anybody saying that keeping the vehicle in 80-90 heat during the daytime causes the door to stick.
You're right, a lot of vehicles sit in the sun during the day and I don't think they have a problem. In fact, our family owns other vehicles, our Dad has a 2006 Tundra, we have a 2001 Isuzu Trooper and 1994 Rodeo, we even have a 1991 F-150. These other vehicles, when we open the doors after they have been in the sun for hours don't have any problems. For some reason, the Civic is the one with the issue. I know doors sticking is mainly in the winter from freezing, I described the problem as such because that is basically what is happening. It doesn't happen at all during spring and fall when the weather is cooler, but when it is hot, we will pull on the door handles and the door doesn't want to open, it is stuck, so to speak. Pull hard enough, and it pops free with a noise. Putting rubber dressing on the seals often seems to help reduce the sticking and amount of force required to pull the door free. This is what I mean by "sticking".
Aren't most vehicle sitting in the sun during the day? I understand sticking doors when the temperature are freezing and causing the doors to ice up. I had not come across anybody saying that keeping the vehicle in 80-90 heat during the daytime causes the door to stick.
You're right, a lot of vehicles sit in the sun during the day and I don't think they have a problem. In fact, our family owns other vehicles, our Dad has a 2006 Tundra, we have a 2001 Isuzu Trooper and 1994 Rodeo, we even have a 1991 F-150. These other vehicles, when we open the doors after they have been in the sun for hours don't have any problems. For some reason, the Civic is the one with the issue. I know doors sticking is mainly in the winter from freezing, I described the problem as such because that is basically what is happening. It doesn't happen at all during spring and fall when the weather is cooler, but when it is hot, we will pull on the door handles and the door doesn't want to open, it is stuck, so to speak. Pull hard enough, and it pops free with a noise. Putting rubber dressing on the seals often seems to help reduce the sticking and amount of force required to pull the door free. This is what I mean by "sticking".
njohnson: It will be interesting to see how the Optimum Opti-bond tire gel holds up during your cold Indiana winter..
As far as the rubber weather stripping goes-I was taught to use silicon spray on the rubber door seals-at every oil change. This will keep the rubber live and plyable. owned a few vechicles over 12-25 yrs old-the weatherstripping was still perfect and plyable.
Honda Shin-Etsu Silicone Grease. I use it on my cars and the door seals feel like a dogs nose.
This stuff works. it is also sold by Honda dealers specifically for door seals. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/370944784225
Just a thought here. Would bees wax work?
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Im still looking into the use of DOT 5 brake fluid, however there is concern that there may be plasticizer in it that could soften paint.
I've mentioned Kleen-Flo HG Rubber Care in another thread. Here, our seals' biggest enemy is the ice and cold that tear them to ribbons.
Im still looking into the use of DOT 5 brake fluid, however there is concern that there may be plasticizer in it that could soften paint.
I've mentioned Kleen-Flo HG Rubber Care in another thread. Here, our seals' biggest enemy is the ice and cold that tear them to ribbons.
- Status