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#3466763 - 08/27/14 07:57 PM Re: De-glazed my rotors. [Re: eljefino]
buck91 Offline


Registered: 04/17/12
Posts: 1530
Loc: West Michigan
I am getting some high speed (>60mph) steering wheel shudder when I hit the brakes. Last time it went away with a rotor turning, but I really don't want to burn through multiple rotors per padset on the truck...
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1996 Mustang GT 5spd/ragtop
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#3467502 - 08/28/14 02:07 PM Re: De-glazed my rotors. [Re: Rylan]
Oldmoparguy1 Offline


Registered: 01/21/05
Posts: 4930
Loc: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted By: Rylan
I think I've mentioned these before: for $40, they're one of the best gadgets a DIYer can buy.

Brush Research Flex-Hone for brake rotors

Amazon has several offerings for these. I'm thinking that this may be what I need to cure the brake shudder on my 13 GC. What grit do you recommend, they come in course, medium and fine.

Wayne
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#3467512 - 08/28/14 02:17 PM Re: De-glazed my rotors. [Re: eljefino]
The_Nuke Offline


Registered: 07/21/13
Posts: 58
Loc: D/FW, Texas
PDF about Brake Judder: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3ISyrRQO5VlNlRqOE9HTVlfTkk/edit?usp=sharing

I don't remember where I found that doc, heck it might have even been on here somewhere, but it presents a good pretty good point about this particular subject, so I figured I should put it out for consumption.

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#3467601 - 08/28/14 03:42 PM Re: De-glazed my rotors. [Re: eljefino]
Miller88 Offline


Registered: 04/09/08
Posts: 10641
Loc: Onondaga County
I used 60 grit sand paper and a block on the Cherokee's rotors and pads recently.

After an off roading trip, I had no front brakes. They just didn't do anything.

Pulled it apart and everything was working.

Turns out there was a super, super, super fine sand that got in and glazed over the rotors and pads. Little bit of sanding and it's fine again.
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#3468273 - 08/29/14 10:42 AM Re: De-glazed my rotors. [Re: eljefino]
hsd Offline


Registered: 09/05/09
Posts: 247
Loc: NE
I have seen that washing the wheels (& car) leaves a noticeable rust film on the rotors that goes away after the next drive. I'm thinking that layer of rust should remove any pad deposits and related brake judder, but I havent fully tested this theory. Anyone with brake judder tried this?

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#3468276 - 08/29/14 10:46 AM Re: De-glazed my rotors. [Re: eljefino]
Quest Offline


Registered: 12/19/04
Posts: 7354
Loc: beaver land EH?
Regardless of the circumstances, when in doubt: it's never a bad idea to get a dial indicator and check for rotor runout before you decide on your next move (to replace rotors, deglaze it, or whatever):

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=dial%20indicator

Once you determined that the runout is within or below specs, then proceed to deglaze and slap on new pad materials, etc.

No use deglazing an otherwise warped rotor to begin with (only machining can bring them true again).

Q.

Sometimes, a significant runout (out of true) hub can attribute to rotor out of true and the perceivable results will be similar to rotor warping, even with fresh new blanks. The only way to overcome that is either to replace the hub or shim it (as what Trav has suggested before).

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#3468747 - 08/29/14 07:29 PM Re: De-glazed my rotors. [Re: eljefino]
andyd Offline


Registered: 09/25/04
Posts: 4770
Loc: Marshfield , MA
Hey, all you have to do to check for a warped rotor is to spin the wheels when they are up in the air. Check out the rotor as it goes through the pads. You will see the wobble if there is one. grin2
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