2014 Mazda 3 Skyactiv 2.0L - Mobil 1 0w30 - 3,079
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Originally Posted By: Artem
I've been running 89 octane in it since day one. I don't see a point in premium fuel, even with the high compression ratio and don't see how it could possibly help with fuel dilution...?
The DIs have to run rich to keep the chamber cool running lower grade fuels. The only evidence I have to prove this is the fact my 0w20 Castrol stayed completely in grade (8.8 cSt, much better than your stout Mobil1 0W30) while doing mostly city driving while all the other skyactiv UOAs, even ones doing all highway driving, show severe fuel dilution such as yours while running lower octane. You can also look at VW DI engine UOAs. They run premium and don't show much fuel dilution issues at all. The only DIs having fuel dilution issues are the ones running on regular.
I also get better MPGs. I was getting around 38-39 MPGs on 87 octane and get around 42 MPGs on 91+ octane.
I've been running 89 octane in it since day one. I don't see a point in premium fuel, even with the high compression ratio and don't see how it could possibly help with fuel dilution...?
The DIs have to run rich to keep the chamber cool running lower grade fuels. The only evidence I have to prove this is the fact my 0w20 Castrol stayed completely in grade (8.8 cSt, much better than your stout Mobil1 0W30) while doing mostly city driving while all the other skyactiv UOAs, even ones doing all highway driving, show severe fuel dilution such as yours while running lower octane. You can also look at VW DI engine UOAs. They run premium and don't show much fuel dilution issues at all. The only DIs having fuel dilution issues are the ones running on regular.
I also get better MPGs. I was getting around 38-39 MPGs on 87 octane and get around 42 MPGs on 91+ octane.
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Hmmm... I'm a little hesitant to spend the extra money on Premium fuel these days, when the price different between grades isn't the usual $0.10 its now over $0.20 cents between 87 and 89 & 93 octane, here in Florida, so the cost of running the higher octant fuel in an engine that does technically NEED IT doesn't make sense to me.
Like I said, I already use 89 octane just because I want to use a slightly better fuel for my brand new car. I feel I'm already doing more then the average Joe would for their M3.
Like I said, I already use 89 octane just because I want to use a slightly better fuel for my brand new car. I feel I'm already doing more then the average Joe would for their M3.
Artem- Glad you are enjoying your "3" we love ours! After the first oil change I found the drain plug was in an ideal location for a fumoto valve so I got one and threw it on there...and I am very happy I did. I can now change the oil on that thing in under 10 min...with a beer in hand!
Originally Posted By: Artem
Hmmm... I'm a little hesitant to spend the extra money on Premium fuel these days, when the price different between grades isn't the usual $0.10 its now over $0.20 cents between 87 and 89 & 93 octane, here in Florida, so the cost of running the higher octant fuel in an engine that does technically NEED IT doesn't make sense to me.
Like I said, I already use 89 octane just because I want to use a slightly better fuel for my brand new car. I feel I'm already doing more then the average Joe would for their M3.
With the factory compression that high and the aftermarket parts you have added that could and probably have let more air into and out of the engine plus the Florida heat and the way you drive the car you are asking for real detonation in that engine. With out the performance parts you could probably get by on 89 octane but now you have changed how much air gets into the engine and how much exhaust exits. The factory ECU was not tuned for the modifications and is not aware of them and that you are using low octane gas. Yes the ECU can learn to a point to deal with detonation but you will be running really rich to stop high RPM detonation and the ECU will pull timing back so much that the performance parts you installed will be effectually negated and running rich with the DI engine is going to shear your oil with fuel delusion. You might even make less power now than your engine did when stock on 87 octane.
Hmmm... I'm a little hesitant to spend the extra money on Premium fuel these days, when the price different between grades isn't the usual $0.10 its now over $0.20 cents between 87 and 89 & 93 octane, here in Florida, so the cost of running the higher octant fuel in an engine that does technically NEED IT doesn't make sense to me.
Like I said, I already use 89 octane just because I want to use a slightly better fuel for my brand new car. I feel I'm already doing more then the average Joe would for their M3.
With the factory compression that high and the aftermarket parts you have added that could and probably have let more air into and out of the engine plus the Florida heat and the way you drive the car you are asking for real detonation in that engine. With out the performance parts you could probably get by on 89 octane but now you have changed how much air gets into the engine and how much exhaust exits. The factory ECU was not tuned for the modifications and is not aware of them and that you are using low octane gas. Yes the ECU can learn to a point to deal with detonation but you will be running really rich to stop high RPM detonation and the ECU will pull timing back so much that the performance parts you installed will be effectually negated and running rich with the DI engine is going to shear your oil with fuel delusion. You might even make less power now than your engine did when stock on 87 octane.
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Originally Posted By: Artem
I don't see any effect on gas mileage with the thicker oil, and even with the abusive driving, I'm averaging 27-33mpg with 70/30 city / highway sprints around town.
Vehicle:
2014 Mazda 3 Hatchback i Touring w/ tech package & 6 speed manual tranny.
Engine:
2.0L Skyactiv DI 4 banger.
Oil type:
Mobil 1 0w30 SN formula from Walmart in a 5qt jug.
Has your mileage improved? I keep hearing that the 2.0 liter models are getting mid-40 mpg hwy real world, even though they're officially EPA rated at ~41 hwy.
In this video the reviewer had 46 mpg combined, with mostly highway driving but included mountain terrain:
[video:youtube]http://youtu.be/eXYJ5jGE37k?t=7m38s[/video]
I don't see any effect on gas mileage with the thicker oil, and even with the abusive driving, I'm averaging 27-33mpg with 70/30 city / highway sprints around town.
Vehicle:
2014 Mazda 3 Hatchback i Touring w/ tech package & 6 speed manual tranny.
Engine:
2.0L Skyactiv DI 4 banger.
Oil type:
Mobil 1 0w30 SN formula from Walmart in a 5qt jug.
Has your mileage improved? I keep hearing that the 2.0 liter models are getting mid-40 mpg hwy real world, even though they're officially EPA rated at ~41 hwy.
In this video the reviewer had 46 mpg combined, with mostly highway driving but included mountain terrain:
[video:youtube]http://youtu.be/eXYJ5jGE37k?t=7m38s[/video]
Negative. Gas mileage still sucks with my 2.0L and manual tranny. 40mpg seems to only be attainable while doing 60-65mph on flat roads with cruise control on. In REAL WORLD driving (75mph on the highway) I'm only getting 33-36mpg at best during all highway trips where I burn through the entire tank.
After 10,000 miles of use, I can't say that I'm impressed with the efficiency of the Skyactiv 2.0L and 6spd manual tranny. I don't know what others are doing to get such good gas mileage during real world 70+ mph driving on the highway. The MPG display doesn't get close to 40s.
After 10,000 miles of use, I can't say that I'm impressed with the efficiency of the Skyactiv 2.0L and 6spd manual tranny. I don't know what others are doing to get such good gas mileage during real world 70+ mph driving on the highway. The MPG display doesn't get close to 40s.
Use a better oil.
Originally Posted By: jrustles
Use a better oil.
What do you recommend?
Are you referring to using a thinner oil or just another brand all together?
Either way, I find it hard that a change in oil viscosity or brand will yield 5+ mpg gain in this engine.
Use a better oil.
What do you recommend?
Are you referring to using a thinner oil or just another brand all together?
Either way, I find it hard that a change in oil viscosity or brand will yield 5+ mpg gain in this engine.
I have a 2012 with automatic. I get 34-35 in combined driving all the time with very aggressive use of the accelerator. On a couple of 150 mile road trips I achieved 37-39 and that was at 75-80 mph. This is on regular fuel using 0W-20.
I am currently at 15,000 miles on this OC. I am using microGreen filters so I change the filter every 10,000 miles and only dump all the oil to change it at 30,000 miles. It takes 1/2 quart of make-up oil when the filter is changed. I pour as much into the filter as it will hold (base plate up mounting) and the rest into the fill hole.
We're going to see just how much fuel dilution there is. I tried premium several times (2-3 consecutive tankfuls each time). The fuel economy showed no meaningful change.
I am currently at 15,000 miles on this OC. I am using microGreen filters so I change the filter every 10,000 miles and only dump all the oil to change it at 30,000 miles. It takes 1/2 quart of make-up oil when the filter is changed. I pour as much into the filter as it will hold (base plate up mounting) and the rest into the fill hole.
We're going to see just how much fuel dilution there is. I tried premium several times (2-3 consecutive tankfuls each time). The fuel economy showed no meaningful change.
Holy smokes 30,000 mile OCIs ??
Originally Posted By: Artem
Negative. Gas mileage still sucks with my 2.0L and manual tranny. 40mpg seems to only be attainable while doing 60-65mph on flat roads with cruise control on. In REAL WORLD driving (75mph on the highway) I'm only getting 33-36mpg at best during all highway trips where I burn through the entire tank.
After 10,000 miles of use, I can't say that I'm impressed with the efficiency of the Skyactiv 2.0L and 6spd manual tranny. I don't know what others are doing to get such good gas mileage during real world 70+ mph driving on the highway. The MPG display doesn't get close to 40s.
I regularly see 42-46 MPGs in my 2.0L MTX if I keep the speeds below 75 MPH. I only get below 40 when I stand in traffic for long periods or drive near 80+ MPH.
Negative. Gas mileage still sucks with my 2.0L and manual tranny. 40mpg seems to only be attainable while doing 60-65mph on flat roads with cruise control on. In REAL WORLD driving (75mph on the highway) I'm only getting 33-36mpg at best during all highway trips where I burn through the entire tank.
After 10,000 miles of use, I can't say that I'm impressed with the efficiency of the Skyactiv 2.0L and 6spd manual tranny. I don't know what others are doing to get such good gas mileage during real world 70+ mph driving on the highway. The MPG display doesn't get close to 40s.
I regularly see 42-46 MPGs in my 2.0L MTX if I keep the speeds below 75 MPH. I only get below 40 when I stand in traffic for long periods or drive near 80+ MPH.
Originally Posted By: jrustles
Holy smokes 30,000 mile OCIs ??
I do realize that the oil may not be able to handle it. But, the MG filter "appears" to be keeping the oil a lot cleaner looking than even the 7,500 mile oil I changed on the first two OC's using the Mazda OEM filters. The oil is just M1 0W-20 AFE since EP was not available at the time of my OC. I have several quarts of Mazda's oil w/moly and I'm using that as the make-up fill when I change the filters.
I admit that one minor reason I am doing this is for shock value. Worst case, I just go back to a more normal OCI, which for me would be 10,000 miles. I am not losing any sleep over damaging the engine.
Holy smokes 30,000 mile OCIs ??
I do realize that the oil may not be able to handle it. But, the MG filter "appears" to be keeping the oil a lot cleaner looking than even the 7,500 mile oil I changed on the first two OC's using the Mazda OEM filters. The oil is just M1 0W-20 AFE since EP was not available at the time of my OC. I have several quarts of Mazda's oil w/moly and I'm using that as the make-up fill when I change the filters.
I admit that one minor reason I am doing this is for shock value. Worst case, I just go back to a more normal OCI, which for me would be 10,000 miles. I am not losing any sleep over damaging the engine.
The Mazda 3 hatchback looks awesome. Mazda did a great job redesigning it.
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
I would like to merely suggest that there are a wide variety of effects that are experienced with intake and exhaust mods. I think it quite plausible that your mods have reduced the car's fuel economy.
The most common effect from said mods is the increased amount of time spent pressing the GO pedal, in order to hear that intake / exhaust ROAR! This obviously results in the MPGs taking a hit.
Having said that, my Mazda 3 returned the same MPG average when it was stock. Nothing changed with the addition of the intake & exhaust modifications during none stop highway trips from Florida to North Carolina (400 miles) which me and the wife take often.
From past experiences, the addition of an aftermarket intake & exhaust resulted in the engine now breathing in air with less restriction and burn exhaust gases now exit with less restriction so in essence, the engine became more efficient vs stock and I saw MPG gain with both vehicles, once modified. My 2007 Civic Si & 2006 Scion tC are those examples. Both cars would EASILY surpass the EPA ratings by 2-3 points during the EXACT SAME FL - NC highway trips, where the car is on cruise control the entire way at the same 76mph.
I expected the same from the Mazda 3, or if the OEM intake & exhaust are too restrictive, the addition of the mods shouldn't have changed the way the engine operates and the gas mileage should be the same.
There's a "Real World Highway MPG" poll over on the Mazda forum and the majority of the results should that people are in the 34-36mpg & 37-39mpg range. Only about 11% are above 40mpg on the highway. Those 11% most be driving 65mph or some other favorable driving condition to achieve those numbers, because 90% of the other members on the forum can't do it, just like me.
Don't blame the modification.
By the way, the car is also lowered by 2" and this should result in less drag while at highway speeds, which should technically HELP my fuel economy yet I'm still struggling to get above the mid 30s.
I would like to merely suggest that there are a wide variety of effects that are experienced with intake and exhaust mods. I think it quite plausible that your mods have reduced the car's fuel economy.
The most common effect from said mods is the increased amount of time spent pressing the GO pedal, in order to hear that intake / exhaust ROAR! This obviously results in the MPGs taking a hit.
Having said that, my Mazda 3 returned the same MPG average when it was stock. Nothing changed with the addition of the intake & exhaust modifications during none stop highway trips from Florida to North Carolina (400 miles) which me and the wife take often.
From past experiences, the addition of an aftermarket intake & exhaust resulted in the engine now breathing in air with less restriction and burn exhaust gases now exit with less restriction so in essence, the engine became more efficient vs stock and I saw MPG gain with both vehicles, once modified. My 2007 Civic Si & 2006 Scion tC are those examples. Both cars would EASILY surpass the EPA ratings by 2-3 points during the EXACT SAME FL - NC highway trips, where the car is on cruise control the entire way at the same 76mph.
I expected the same from the Mazda 3, or if the OEM intake & exhaust are too restrictive, the addition of the mods shouldn't have changed the way the engine operates and the gas mileage should be the same.
There's a "Real World Highway MPG" poll over on the Mazda forum and the majority of the results should that people are in the 34-36mpg & 37-39mpg range. Only about 11% are above 40mpg on the highway. Those 11% most be driving 65mph or some other favorable driving condition to achieve those numbers, because 90% of the other members on the forum can't do it, just like me.
Don't blame the modification.
By the way, the car is also lowered by 2" and this should result in less drag while at highway speeds, which should technically HELP my fuel economy yet I'm still struggling to get above the mid 30s.
I am by no means an expert on the subject, but I have read plenty in the past questioning intake/exhaust mods on a stock engine. Without changing anything in the engine itself there may be little benefit since it will more or less have the same capability to handle air flow, the same exhaust valve spring tension and valve opening durations.
I definitely do agree that the more aggressive sounds do tend to result in more assertive driving.
I definitely do agree that the more aggressive sounds do tend to result in more assertive driving.
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