Almost immediately after pouring in one can of lm mos2. Over the next few oil changes i bumped up the dosage to 2 cans due to the 12 quart capacity of this motor.
Adding Mos2 in a BMW N54 engine with DI?
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Originally Posted By: Chevydriver
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...l_P#Post2794978
looks like soluble moly in lubeguard not MoS2
Yes thats what they told one poster when he called. I think trinuclear moly is the evolution of moly.
Think of MoS2 as old school and trinuclear as new school. They both do the same job but the new school does it cleaner using less ppm with none of the issues of a solid lube.
But wait. It just so happens to be in many engine oils right off the shelf.
That IMHO is the dirty little secret some posters in this thread don't want to touch on.
Instead we get reduces engine wear by up to 50% using a one arm bandit. Cripes Pert shampoo will do the same thing.
In an older engine running dino the Lubeguard product is probably fine, the esters could help the seals and the moly might help also.
There are additive junkies, just look at the shelves in the stores. This is a multi billion dollar industry aimed directly at these folks.
Some are legitimate and address real problems and others are just snake oil.
IMHO Mos2 falls into both categories depending on how you use it. In greases, as a dry lube, as a antiwear coating applied in thickness to dry parts with heat and pressure like moly coated piston skirts or rings its fantastic.
Put in a can with a liquid base as an oil additive for modern oils it IMHO borders on snake oil. Its supporters are rabid, so blinded by the claims of 50 years ago they cant see the current formulations and their benefits or even the evolution of moly.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...l_P#Post2794978
looks like soluble moly in lubeguard not MoS2
Yes thats what they told one poster when he called. I think trinuclear moly is the evolution of moly.
Think of MoS2 as old school and trinuclear as new school. They both do the same job but the new school does it cleaner using less ppm with none of the issues of a solid lube.
But wait. It just so happens to be in many engine oils right off the shelf.
That IMHO is the dirty little secret some posters in this thread don't want to touch on.
Instead we get reduces engine wear by up to 50% using a one arm bandit. Cripes Pert shampoo will do the same thing.
In an older engine running dino the Lubeguard product is probably fine, the esters could help the seals and the moly might help also.
There are additive junkies, just look at the shelves in the stores. This is a multi billion dollar industry aimed directly at these folks.
Some are legitimate and address real problems and others are just snake oil.
IMHO Mos2 falls into both categories depending on how you use it. In greases, as a dry lube, as a antiwear coating applied in thickness to dry parts with heat and pressure like moly coated piston skirts or rings its fantastic.
Put in a can with a liquid base as an oil additive for modern oils it IMHO borders on snake oil. Its supporters are rabid, so blinded by the claims of 50 years ago they cant see the current formulations and their benefits or even the evolution of moly.
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Put in a can with a liquid base as an oil additive for modern oils it IMHO borders on snake oil. Its supporters are rabid, so blinded by the claims of 50 years ago they cant see the current formulations and their benefits or even the evolution of moly.
Take your gripe up with the folks at Liqui-Moly or Dow Corning or Volkwagen. You're only going after the most popular industrial lubricant in use today. And such scorn for a product but without using it?
But, it will turn your oil black.
Put in a can with a liquid base as an oil additive for modern oils it IMHO borders on snake oil. Its supporters are rabid, so blinded by the claims of 50 years ago they cant see the current formulations and their benefits or even the evolution of moly.
Take your gripe up with the folks at Liqui-Moly or Dow Corning or Volkwagen. You're only going after the most popular industrial lubricant in use today. And such scorn for a product but without using it?
But, it will turn your oil black.
What are you talking about? I used it probably more than anyone here, all the way back to when LM sold it in red and black cans. They even had tiny cans for small engines.
I just moved on to appreciate the properties of todays modern synthetic oils. Thats not to say it wont do any good in something like A small air cooled engine using a straight weight or dino multi.
I would still use it in a old Käfer or early Porsche engine where even VW and Porsche don't recommend the use of modern oils.
These and similar old engines like the Citroen air cooled are the engines it was aimed at.
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesan...eweditions/oil/
Correct it is an industrial lubricant and a good one, like i said it works best in grease and applied coatings.
VW no longer recommends this product for engine oils in their vehicles.
I just moved on to appreciate the properties of todays modern synthetic oils. Thats not to say it wont do any good in something like A small air cooled engine using a straight weight or dino multi.
I would still use it in a old Käfer or early Porsche engine where even VW and Porsche don't recommend the use of modern oils.
These and similar old engines like the Citroen air cooled are the engines it was aimed at.
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesan...eweditions/oil/
Correct it is an industrial lubricant and a good one, like i said it works best in grease and applied coatings.
VW no longer recommends this product for engine oils in their vehicles.
Originally Posted By: Trav
What are you talking about? I used it probably more than anyone here, all the way back to when LM sold it in red and black cans. They even had tiny cans for small engines. I just moved on to appreciate the properties of todays modern synthetic oils. Thats not to say it won't do any good in something like A small air cooled engine using a straight weight or dino multi.
Okay, you've used it with "modern oils", yes? What did it not do in "modern oils" that it succeeded in doing when you used it in "older oils"? Was there a downside, other than having to purchase the MoS2? Like the product or not, oil plus MoS2 is simply more slippery than oil alone, so you're going to have less internal engine friction with MoS2 in use.
My question is, how did you go from using (and likeing?) L-M MoS2 to not using it? I hope it wasn't your mishap with Cera-tec.
It is unclear if other forms of moly "plate" bearing surfaces to provide significant start-up lubrication. At least one message from Molakule, many months ago, suggested it did not or at least it did not do so to the extent of MoS2. But, I will concede that last-forever engines are not really in demand.
About the only oil products (new or old) that should not benefit would be an oil that already contained this MoS2 - several Liqui-moly products, maybe Schaeffer's Supreme, possibly some other brands.
But, it turns your oil black.
What are you talking about? I used it probably more than anyone here, all the way back to when LM sold it in red and black cans. They even had tiny cans for small engines. I just moved on to appreciate the properties of todays modern synthetic oils. Thats not to say it won't do any good in something like A small air cooled engine using a straight weight or dino multi.
Okay, you've used it with "modern oils", yes? What did it not do in "modern oils" that it succeeded in doing when you used it in "older oils"? Was there a downside, other than having to purchase the MoS2? Like the product or not, oil plus MoS2 is simply more slippery than oil alone, so you're going to have less internal engine friction with MoS2 in use.
My question is, how did you go from using (and likeing?) L-M MoS2 to not using it? I hope it wasn't your mishap with Cera-tec.
It is unclear if other forms of moly "plate" bearing surfaces to provide significant start-up lubrication. At least one message from Molakule, many months ago, suggested it did not or at least it did not do so to the extent of MoS2. But, I will concede that last-forever engines are not really in demand.
About the only oil products (new or old) that should not benefit would be an oil that already contained this MoS2 - several Liqui-moly products, maybe Schaeffer's Supreme, possibly some other brands.
But, it turns your oil black.
Originally Posted By: Nebroch
Originally Posted By: Trav
Correct it is an industrial lubricant and a good one, like i said it works best in grease and applied coatings.
Don't they use it in gear oils too?
Sure. Used just about everywhere.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Correct it is an industrial lubricant and a good one, like i said it works best in grease and applied coatings.
Don't they use it in gear oils too?
Sure. Used just about everywhere.
I stopped using it in Germany about 1993 because i was running $100 a gallon Castrol RS 10w60 (the red oil).
In the US i used it again in 06 or so because i figured the Americans were running inferior Gp III synthetics and it could use a little help.
Then i joined BITOG and learned something. The MoS2 was doing nothing at all, no better fuel economy no better compression (actual before and after 2,500 readings, nothing detectable by the butt dyno.
That car sat for over a year then i pulled the pan (it was rusting) and there it was, right on the bottom of the pan.
That was the last time i touched the stuff and never will again.
There is no significant plating action on bearings with Mos2. AFAIK you cannot deposit a solid onto an oil covered surface. Try it sometime.
Why would you need to, the oil film keeps the crank from hitting the bearings, if it didn't the bearing would be damaged in seconds.
So you contend it makes the oil slippier? Well if thats the case what is going on with the needle bearings in the roller lifers, cam followers, thrust bearings, etc? How slippy can it be before they start skidding?
I am not talking about micro movement but fully loaded rotating needle bearings, something that wasn't found in old school engines. I don't know the answer but i know it is a concern.
Engines today cost a small fortune, why risk a good engine on a $10 can of whatever especially when the engine manufacturer and the oil producer both don't authorize or recommend it.
Originally Posted By: Koyo Torrington
LUBRICANT ADDITIVES
Additives are materials, usually chemicals, that improve specifi c
properties when added to lubricants. Additives, when properly
formulated into a lubricant, can increase lubricant life, provide
greater resistance to corrosion, increase load-carrying capacity
and enhance other properties. Additives are very complex and
should not be added indiscriminately to lubricants as a cure-all for
all lubrication problems
http://www.koyousa.com/brochures/pdfs/catb2016e-4.pdf
In the US i used it again in 06 or so because i figured the Americans were running inferior Gp III synthetics and it could use a little help.
Then i joined BITOG and learned something. The MoS2 was doing nothing at all, no better fuel economy no better compression (actual before and after 2,500 readings, nothing detectable by the butt dyno.
That car sat for over a year then i pulled the pan (it was rusting) and there it was, right on the bottom of the pan.
That was the last time i touched the stuff and never will again.
There is no significant plating action on bearings with Mos2. AFAIK you cannot deposit a solid onto an oil covered surface. Try it sometime.
Why would you need to, the oil film keeps the crank from hitting the bearings, if it didn't the bearing would be damaged in seconds.
So you contend it makes the oil slippier? Well if thats the case what is going on with the needle bearings in the roller lifers, cam followers, thrust bearings, etc? How slippy can it be before they start skidding?
I am not talking about micro movement but fully loaded rotating needle bearings, something that wasn't found in old school engines. I don't know the answer but i know it is a concern.
Engines today cost a small fortune, why risk a good engine on a $10 can of whatever especially when the engine manufacturer and the oil producer both don't authorize or recommend it.
Originally Posted By: Koyo Torrington
LUBRICANT ADDITIVES
Additives are materials, usually chemicals, that improve specifi c
properties when added to lubricants. Additives, when properly
formulated into a lubricant, can increase lubricant life, provide
greater resistance to corrosion, increase load-carrying capacity
and enhance other properties. Additives are very complex and
should not be added indiscriminately to lubricants as a cure-all for
all lubrication problems
http://www.koyousa.com/brochures/pdfs/catb2016e-4.pdf
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Trav, are you saying this about Lubegard Biotech Engine Oil Supplement and not just the LM moly? I have used the Lubegard product but it has been a long while since I did. Pretty much today I use only a few products like Stal-Bil in the gas for the lawnmower and weed trimmer and MMO sometimes in the gas, and Techron. And for engine cleaning I would use either MMO or Kreen.
I am not a big supplements guy anyway. But I assume this LM moly could be useful in older car engines and in small engines like lawnmower engines.
I am not a big supplements guy anyway. But I assume this LM moly could be useful in older car engines and in small engines like lawnmower engines.
I think the Lubeguard product might be the better one to use if you were going to use one.
MoS2 was great in air cooled engines like old VW, lawnmowers,snowblowers, etc.
Since roller lifters needle bearings are becoming more common in engines today, a rolling surface is much more resistant to wear eg flat tappet cams.
Here is just one product CRC SUPER LONGTERM GREASE + MoS2 which says..
Quote:
Grease + MoS2
is an EP (extreme pressure)-lithium soap-based
grease containing molybdenum disulphide for rolling-element and sliding-contact bearings
subject to extreme mechanical loads, e.g. low sliding speed under high bearing pressure or
high impact loads.The solid lubricant MoS2
coats the surface, so preventing scuffing even in
applications characterised by mixed friction
But goes on to say..
Quote:
Do not use on needle bearings.
And..
Quote:
Surfaces/equipment to be treated should be clean and dry
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/63568.pdf
MoS2 was great in air cooled engines like old VW, lawnmowers,snowblowers, etc.
Since roller lifters needle bearings are becoming more common in engines today, a rolling surface is much more resistant to wear eg flat tappet cams.
Here is just one product CRC SUPER LONGTERM GREASE + MoS2 which says..
Quote:
Grease + MoS2
is an EP (extreme pressure)-lithium soap-based
grease containing molybdenum disulphide for rolling-element and sliding-contact bearings
subject to extreme mechanical loads, e.g. low sliding speed under high bearing pressure or
high impact loads.The solid lubricant MoS2
coats the surface, so preventing scuffing even in
applications characterised by mixed friction
But goes on to say..
Quote:
Do not use on needle bearings.
And..
Quote:
Surfaces/equipment to be treated should be clean and dry
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/63568.pdf
It continues to amaze me that, with all of the reading material here on BITOG, some people STILL don't get that there are TWO different kinds of moly!
Other than in a couple of grades of Liqui-Moly's own motor oil, colloidal moly MoS2 (powdered solid molybdenum disulfide) is not to my knowledge currently being used by ANY other oil company in ANY of their oils.
Organic moly MoDTC (liquid molybdenum dithiocarbamate) is what the oil companies put in their oil. MoDTC works synergistically with ZDDP, so adding more of it won't necessarily do any good without adding more ZDDP. Lubeguard contains the MoDTC form of moly.
Other than sharing the WORD moly, and both being used to reduce friction and wear, the two substances are NOT the same and work in entirely different ways. MoS2 plates metal wear surfaces to a measurable thickness (fractions of a micron), MoDTC does not and works at the molecular level.
Trinuclear moly is a newer more effective form of MoDTC invented by Infineum. It is 3 times more effective than binuclear moly (so they don't need to put as much in the oil) and it's oxidation rate is less than half that of binuclear moly so it lasts longer and is better for longer OCIs. Yes, MoDTC DOES oxidize (wear out) with heat and pressure over time. MoS2 does NOT.
There shouldn't be any reason why colloidal and organic moly can't co-exist and BOTH provide tangible benefits SIMULTANEOUSLY in an engine, I have not seen anything to the contrary mentioned in any white papers.
If you want the specific proven benefits provided by MoS2 colloidal moly, you MUST use an MoS2 additive like Liqui-Moly MoS2. You won't get these benefits from motor oil alone (other than from one of Liqui-Moly's own oils that contain MoS2).
Other than in a couple of grades of Liqui-Moly's own motor oil, colloidal moly MoS2 (powdered solid molybdenum disulfide) is not to my knowledge currently being used by ANY other oil company in ANY of their oils.
Organic moly MoDTC (liquid molybdenum dithiocarbamate) is what the oil companies put in their oil. MoDTC works synergistically with ZDDP, so adding more of it won't necessarily do any good without adding more ZDDP. Lubeguard contains the MoDTC form of moly.
Other than sharing the WORD moly, and both being used to reduce friction and wear, the two substances are NOT the same and work in entirely different ways. MoS2 plates metal wear surfaces to a measurable thickness (fractions of a micron), MoDTC does not and works at the molecular level.
Trinuclear moly is a newer more effective form of MoDTC invented by Infineum. It is 3 times more effective than binuclear moly (so they don't need to put as much in the oil) and it's oxidation rate is less than half that of binuclear moly so it lasts longer and is better for longer OCIs. Yes, MoDTC DOES oxidize (wear out) with heat and pressure over time. MoS2 does NOT.
There shouldn't be any reason why colloidal and organic moly can't co-exist and BOTH provide tangible benefits SIMULTANEOUSLY in an engine, I have not seen anything to the contrary mentioned in any white papers.
If you want the specific proven benefits provided by MoS2 colloidal moly, you MUST use an MoS2 additive like Liqui-Moly MoS2. You won't get these benefits from motor oil alone (other than from one of Liqui-Moly's own oils that contain MoS2).
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Originally Posted By: wag123
here on BITOG, some people STILL don't get that there are TWO different kinds of moly!
And who would that be i certainly do. I am all for the liquid form of moly used in the engine oils formulation.
here on BITOG, some people STILL don't get that there are TWO different kinds of moly!
And who would that be i certainly do. I am all for the liquid form of moly used in the engine oils formulation.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: wag123
here on BITOG, some people STILL don't get that there are TWO different kinds of moly!
And who would that be i certainly do. I am all for the liquid form of moly used in the engine oils formulation.
Not you Trav.
Some of what I tried to explain was aimed at the "if a little moly is good, than a lot must be better" crowd. With MoDTC there is a balancing act in the oil chemistry.
Originally Posted By: wag123
here on BITOG, some people STILL don't get that there are TWO different kinds of moly!
And who would that be i certainly do. I am all for the liquid form of moly used in the engine oils formulation.
Not you Trav.
Some of what I tried to explain was aimed at the "if a little moly is good, than a lot must be better" crowd. With MoDTC there is a balancing act in the oil chemistry.
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Originally Posted By: Trav
I stopped using it in Germany about 1993 because i was running $100 a gallon Castrol RS 10w60 (the red oil).
In the US i used it again in 06 or so because i figured the Americans were running inferior Gp III synthetics and it could use a little help.
Okay, economics. There have been periods I did not use it - always because of non-availability.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Then i joined BITOG and learned something. The MoS2 was doing nothing at all, no better fuel economy no better compression (actual before and after 2,500 readings, nothing detectable by the butt dyno. That car sat for over a year then i pulled the pan (it was rusting) and there it was, right on the bottom of the pan. That was the last time i touched the stuff and never will again.
I wonder who you were listening to on BITOG? There are several white papers posted along with Motor Oil 101 that take an opposite position. You've used BITOG long enough to know that every product has its detractors, usually folks who have never used it.
As for the bottom of the pan after a year of sitting, that is not too much of a surprise. But the result was that it was wasted, in a rather unusual circumstance. Except for the waste, was there any other damage? If you had simply drained the oil, would the MoS2 drained out? If you had started the engine and driven the vehicle normally, would the MoS2 have been picked up?
Originally Posted By: Trav
There is no significant plating action on bearings with Mos2. AFAIK you cannot deposit a solid onto an oil covered surface. Try it sometime.
Why would you need to, the oil film keeps the crank from hitting the bearings, if it didn't the bearing would be damaged in seconds.
Okay, but there is a rather substantial body of information to the contrary. I don't believe the lubrication world has been the butt of a giant 60-year hoax. The crank [not] hitting the bearing is only one aspect of lubrication. The crank [not] hitting the bearing when you cold start the vehicle, and all the oil has drained into the pan, is another aspect.
Originally Posted By: Trav
So you contend it makes the oil slippier? Well if thats the case what is going on with the needle bearings in the roller lifers, cam followers, thrust bearings, etc? How slippy can it be before they start skidding? I am not talking about micro movement but fully loaded rotating needle bearings, something that wasn't found in old school engines. I don't know the answer but i know it is a concern.
Not my contention about slippery - it's pretty much beyond argument (except of course on BITGO!). Why not write or call and ask Liqui-Moly about the specific needle bearing application. I'm sure it is known to them.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Engines today cost a small fortune, why risk a good engine on a $10 can of whatever especially when the engine manufacturer and the oil producer both don't authorize or recommend it.
As noted before, how you go into this issue may determine how you come out. If you really believe the oil companies know how to make and deliver the best possible product for the consumer, then why use BITOG at all? I don't hold that view. I don't see the world filled with evil conspiracies - only companies trying to maximize profits. If the final retail product could still be improved, they might do it next year or the year after or maybe not at all. It is a sad fact of corporate life that advertising has a much greater influence on sales, market share and profits than does the quality or utility of the product.
As for vehicle manufacturers, why bother testing a zillion additives, which may only extend the life of a vehicle or engine... and thereby reduce new car sales, service sales and parts sales). It is much simpler to say 'no'.
I stopped using it in Germany about 1993 because i was running $100 a gallon Castrol RS 10w60 (the red oil).
In the US i used it again in 06 or so because i figured the Americans were running inferior Gp III synthetics and it could use a little help.
Okay, economics. There have been periods I did not use it - always because of non-availability.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Then i joined BITOG and learned something. The MoS2 was doing nothing at all, no better fuel economy no better compression (actual before and after 2,500 readings, nothing detectable by the butt dyno. That car sat for over a year then i pulled the pan (it was rusting) and there it was, right on the bottom of the pan. That was the last time i touched the stuff and never will again.
I wonder who you were listening to on BITOG? There are several white papers posted along with Motor Oil 101 that take an opposite position. You've used BITOG long enough to know that every product has its detractors, usually folks who have never used it.
As for the bottom of the pan after a year of sitting, that is not too much of a surprise. But the result was that it was wasted, in a rather unusual circumstance. Except for the waste, was there any other damage? If you had simply drained the oil, would the MoS2 drained out? If you had started the engine and driven the vehicle normally, would the MoS2 have been picked up?
Originally Posted By: Trav
There is no significant plating action on bearings with Mos2. AFAIK you cannot deposit a solid onto an oil covered surface. Try it sometime.
Why would you need to, the oil film keeps the crank from hitting the bearings, if it didn't the bearing would be damaged in seconds.
Okay, but there is a rather substantial body of information to the contrary. I don't believe the lubrication world has been the butt of a giant 60-year hoax. The crank [not] hitting the bearing is only one aspect of lubrication. The crank [not] hitting the bearing when you cold start the vehicle, and all the oil has drained into the pan, is another aspect.
Originally Posted By: Trav
So you contend it makes the oil slippier? Well if thats the case what is going on with the needle bearings in the roller lifers, cam followers, thrust bearings, etc? How slippy can it be before they start skidding? I am not talking about micro movement but fully loaded rotating needle bearings, something that wasn't found in old school engines. I don't know the answer but i know it is a concern.
Not my contention about slippery - it's pretty much beyond argument (except of course on BITGO!). Why not write or call and ask Liqui-Moly about the specific needle bearing application. I'm sure it is known to them.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Engines today cost a small fortune, why risk a good engine on a $10 can of whatever especially when the engine manufacturer and the oil producer both don't authorize or recommend it.
As noted before, how you go into this issue may determine how you come out. If you really believe the oil companies know how to make and deliver the best possible product for the consumer, then why use BITOG at all? I don't hold that view. I don't see the world filled with evil conspiracies - only companies trying to maximize profits. If the final retail product could still be improved, they might do it next year or the year after or maybe not at all. It is a sad fact of corporate life that advertising has a much greater influence on sales, market share and profits than does the quality or utility of the product.
As for vehicle manufacturers, why bother testing a zillion additives, which may only extend the life of a vehicle or engine... and thereby reduce new car sales, service sales and parts sales). It is much simpler to say 'no'.
I have seen enough and read enough. I think i have presented enough information to at least make someone question if they really want to use this stuff or not.
If you want to use it have at it, i could care less. Your engine your money but i would never recommend this stuff or any other solid lubricant to anyone.
Does Bugatti use MoS2 in their spec? No! I would think they would want a little extra protection in a 1.7 million dollar car right?
Naw they use some cheap swill. blended to a price point.
Nothing on that car is built to a price point why wouldn't they spec MoS2 if its so great and improves any oil?
Weasel out of that, you will with some utter nonsense. And with that i drop this thread.
If you want to use it have at it, i could care less. Your engine your money but i would never recommend this stuff or any other solid lubricant to anyone.
Does Bugatti use MoS2 in their spec? No! I would think they would want a little extra protection in a 1.7 million dollar car right?
Naw they use some cheap swill. blended to a price point.
Nothing on that car is built to a price point why wouldn't they spec MoS2 if its so great and improves any oil?
Weasel out of that, you will with some utter nonsense. And with that i drop this thread.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: keesue
Originally Posted By: dave5358
But, it does turn my oil black.
Out of curiosity, can someone advise if lubegard bio-tech does the same thing. I believe it is a Moly product as well? Many thanks...
The oil will have a very slight blue/dark green tint.
Thank you much
Originally Posted By: keesue
Originally Posted By: dave5358
But, it does turn my oil black.
Out of curiosity, can someone advise if lubegard bio-tech does the same thing. I believe it is a Moly product as well? Many thanks...
The oil will have a very slight blue/dark green tint.
Thank you much
Originally Posted By: Chevydriver
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...l_P#Post2794978
looks like soluble moly in lubeguard not MoS2
Many thanks, I'll have a look.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...l_P#Post2794978
looks like soluble moly in lubeguard not MoS2
Many thanks, I'll have a look.
Like I said earlier if the moly is dropping out of the oil in LM moly when a car sits for a while I don't want that product. Although the product might still be good for small engines on lawnmowers, etc.
The Lubegard Biotech product might be better to use. It apparently has moly in chemical combination with the oil. But with the improved oils of today maybe the Lubegard product is not necessary either.
That is fine with me. As I have said I am not really a big supplements guy. I am fine with just MMO and Kreen for cleaning an engine, and MMO in fuel, Techron, and fuel stabilizer for gas in small engines.
If I had a brand new car I would use synthetic oil. Since I have an 11 year old car I will use conventional motor oil. I use Techron a couple times a year in the fuel and I can use either MMO or Kreen for cleaning the engine.
The Lubegard Biotech product might be better to use. It apparently has moly in chemical combination with the oil. But with the improved oils of today maybe the Lubegard product is not necessary either.
That is fine with me. As I have said I am not really a big supplements guy. I am fine with just MMO and Kreen for cleaning an engine, and MMO in fuel, Techron, and fuel stabilizer for gas in small engines.
If I had a brand new car I would use synthetic oil. Since I have an 11 year old car I will use conventional motor oil. I use Techron a couple times a year in the fuel and I can use either MMO or Kreen for cleaning the engine.
Originally Posted By: Trav
But goes on to say..
Quote:
Do not use on needle bearings.
Nice find. Maybe that grease has larger moly content than an engine oil with MoS² additive? Particle size can also differ.
I'd be disappointed to LM if they recommended a product without saying that it's no good for modern engines, if it's hazardous for some bearing types.
But goes on to say..
Quote:
Do not use on needle bearings.
Nice find. Maybe that grease has larger moly content than an engine oil with MoS² additive? Particle size can also differ.
I'd be disappointed to LM if they recommended a product without saying that it's no good for modern engines, if it's hazardous for some bearing types.
For LM to recommend it, it has to be two things:
1. Helpful in some cases
2. Relatively harmless in most cases (if used according to directions)
Pretty sure we all agree that both of those things apply to MoS2.
Really, the only point of disagreement is whether the OP had any reason to use it. That's a question of priorities. All of the other conversation is a sidebar (much of it ridiculous).
1. Helpful in some cases
2. Relatively harmless in most cases (if used according to directions)
Pretty sure we all agree that both of those things apply to MoS2.
Really, the only point of disagreement is whether the OP had any reason to use it. That's a question of priorities. All of the other conversation is a sidebar (much of it ridiculous).
- Status
