Valve seals, what to do.
- Thread starter expat
- Start date
- Status
With only 80K miles, I can't imagine the engine has much wear. It is barely broken in.
Originally Posted By: expat
I did notice that one of the heads said that it would produce another 30psi compression.
I did not like the sound of that, the last thing I want is to have to run premium gas.
You would have to talk to them if you decided on that route.
Sometimes just a different thickness HG is all that needed to bring it in OEM range or they have found out they can go to this level without upping the octane requirement by changing the chamber design slightly.
Getting all the info is a must before doing something like this.
I did notice that one of the heads said that it would produce another 30psi compression.
I did not like the sound of that, the last thing I want is to have to run premium gas.
You would have to talk to them if you decided on that route.
Sometimes just a different thickness HG is all that needed to bring it in OEM range or they have found out they can go to this level without upping the octane requirement by changing the chamber design slightly.
Getting all the info is a must before doing something like this.
Originally Posted By: G.Frost
With only 80K miles, I can't imagine the engine has much wear. It is barely broken in.
Perhaps I should give some background.
The truck was bought new by a man that had (as it turned out) terminal cancer, he put about 30k on the truck before he died. His widow did not want to sell "His" truck, so it was parked in the Basement garage for 20+ years.
Eventually the widow was put in a home (she had dementia)
and the Granddaughter found the truck when she was clearing out the home.
It was then towed to a Les Schwab dealer to be brought into running condition.
That's when I bought it.
It was running a little rough at Idle, lacked off Idle torque and burned a little oil (you could see a slight Blue haze at the tailpipe) Compression was 225 psi and even.
I suspected a stuck piston ring and gave it two full Arx treatments as per the instructions Du Jour
(this was all the rage 6 years ago) but it was to no effect.
I continued short 3k oci's for the next two years, then one winter used 1/2 litre of MMO for the last 1k of my OCI. Suddenly, the idle became smooth and the oil consumption has been negligible since for the last 3 years.
OCI's have been at about 4k and I have used PYB, QS and on two occasions Maxlife (whatever is on sale) and not had any problems.
I first noticed these strange 'Puffs' of Blue about 2 weeks ago. I have not noticed a measurable loss of oil in that time. But as I have said, when it does happen it is noticeable and has caused (friendly) comment from other people.
With only 80K miles, I can't imagine the engine has much wear. It is barely broken in.
Perhaps I should give some background.
The truck was bought new by a man that had (as it turned out) terminal cancer, he put about 30k on the truck before he died. His widow did not want to sell "His" truck, so it was parked in the Basement garage for 20+ years.
Eventually the widow was put in a home (she had dementia)
and the Granddaughter found the truck when she was clearing out the home.
It was then towed to a Les Schwab dealer to be brought into running condition.
That's when I bought it.
It was running a little rough at Idle, lacked off Idle torque and burned a little oil (you could see a slight Blue haze at the tailpipe) Compression was 225 psi and even.
I suspected a stuck piston ring and gave it two full Arx treatments as per the instructions Du Jour
(this was all the rage 6 years ago) but it was to no effect.
I continued short 3k oci's for the next two years, then one winter used 1/2 litre of MMO for the last 1k of my OCI. Suddenly, the idle became smooth and the oil consumption has been negligible since for the last 3 years.
OCI's have been at about 4k and I have used PYB, QS and on two occasions Maxlife (whatever is on sale) and not had any problems.
I first noticed these strange 'Puffs' of Blue about 2 weeks ago. I have not noticed a measurable loss of oil in that time. But as I have said, when it does happen it is noticeable and has caused (friendly) comment from other people.
Liqui-moly motor oil saver. It's an ester and will help soften up valve guides a bit. Certainly can't hurt at this point.
I would take a middle path. Before you pull the head, take a compression check. Just for a base line. Back off the head bolts in 3 stages to preserve flatness. With the head off, run the plugs back in and set it upside down and level on the bench on paper towels. Fill the chamber with gas. Check the valve stems for gas or watch how fast the level goes down. If it is really slow, I would just replace the seals. Without doing anything else.Replace the head gasket and move on. If the head bolts are torque to yield,best to replace them.
One reason Toyota engines last so long is their machining and build quality. Once you buy a remanufactured head, it's no longer a Toyota engine as it's remachined and don't expect much life out of it.
I would keep the original parts as much as possible. If you need to pull the head off, do so but don't go with the remanufactured route unless necessary. Get a copy of the OEM repair manual, which explains how to inspect the head and valves.
I would keep the original parts as much as possible. If you need to pull the head off, do so but don't go with the remanufactured route unless necessary. Get a copy of the OEM repair manual, which explains how to inspect the head and valves.
- Status
