Lubrication Engineers - PSD 6.0 Experience?

[fishintheobx]

Given the good feedback I've heard around running a 5w40 in the 6.0 PSD, I'm looking at making the change. I've run both Amsoil and Lubrication Engineers 15w40 in the past with good results. But, with the stiction issues, and my preference, I'd like to hear any experiences with Lubrication Engineers Monolec 8854. Especially if anyone has done a UOA of this through the 6.0.

http://www.lelubricants.com/lit/flyers/8854 Product Info.pdf

Have a 165k mile truck that is extremely well maintained with no issues to date, do a fair amount of towing here in Florida running Diesel Kleen quite religiously.

 

[BoiseRob]

Why not run 10w30?

 

[m37charlie]

Originally Posted By: BoiseRob
Why not run 10w30?


maybe because he lives in Florida and tows a lot?

Charlie

 

[fishintheobx]

It is my understanding the HPOP on the 6.0 will shred pretty much any oil to a 30 weight anyhow. Sheer stability is a concern. Just with the stiction problems in the HEUI injectors that these engines are known for, I don't want to run an additive (ie: Hotshot, Rev-x, Archoil). Seems that most are going for the 5w40 to keep from running an additive since a lot of the problems are at start-up.

 

[dnewton3]

The "need" for a 40 grade, especially in the PSDs is greatly overblown and misunderstood.

Just becuase he's in FL and tows, does not point towards the neccessity of a 40 grade. While I certainly agree it won't hurt, it's not nearly as helpful as one would think. There is NO PROOF I can find that shows a lighter grade would result in increased wear in UOA macro data. Additionally, as many of us know, roadrunner1 has run dino JD 10w-30 lube in his 6.0L with great success.

It may stay warm for a longer portion of time in FL, but it does not really get any "hotter" in FL than it does in the mid-west and central plains in summer. Here are some examples of average high temps:
Naples FL - 93 degF
Pensacola, FL - 90 degF
Indianapolis, IN - 84 degF
Rapid City, SD - 85 degF
Is it our contention that he "needs" a 40 grade just because he averages perhaps 6 or 7 degrees warmer in ambient temps than we do here in the midwest? I find that absurd.

The HEUI is certainly shown to prefer a 30 grade; you'll either feed it one or it will chew a 40 grade down to a 30 grade for you. But either situation results in "normal" wear. I see no proof that a thicker oil results in less wear, and I would challenge anyone to show proof otherwise.

As for the "stichion" issue, that is often mis-diagnosed. It is often due to lazy FICM injection events as a function from poor voltage control to the injectors. Weak batteries can degrade the FICM, and even after you put in new batteries, the poor performance can continue because the FICM performance is degraded. Also, just general age and heat/vibration can degrade the FICM as well. All this results in slower, "lazy" injection events. There are many aftermarket services that offer 48V or even up to 58V reman'd FICM modules. This will greatly improve the lazy injection events moreso that any lube additive ever will. I am not saying stichion isn't an issue; I'm saying it's very often misdiagnosed and therefore using a super-duper lube really does nothing to address the root cause. Just type in "Ford diesel FICM" into your favorite search entity and see how many aftermarket services are there for this issue!

I would think that a dino 15w-40 would do well in his area; I agree with that. But I also think a 30 grade would do just as well protecting against wear. Neither will address the perception of "stichion" when the likely cause is poor FICM voltage. I see ZERO evidence of the "need" for 5w-40 syn in FL, and it's unlikely to fix his perceived problem other than a placebo effect.

 

[roadrunner1]

With a proper functioning oil cooler ambient air temperature is for the most part a non-issue.
I have roughly 125,000 mi. on my 6.0 with 10w-30 (198,000 mi. total) per my UOA data wear actually decreased with 10w-30 vs. 15w-40 and 5w-40.

I came to the conclusion after the second UOA with 10w-30 that for as long as I own my 6.0 10w-30 is all it will get.

 

[fishintheobx]

All good information...the very reason why I read this board so much! I don't feel there is much difference between a 15w40, 10w30, and 5w40 in the 6.0. I've seen a fair share of UOA on those grades...and as dnewton3 said, you'll either give this engine a 30wt, or it will chew the 40wt down to it.

I will say the relationship between stiction and the FICM is the first time I've heard that theory given all my reading I've done. It is one that makes sense. And I monitor my FICM internal voltage on my Livewire all the time with an alarm point set at 46.5v. When it does go, I'll be getting a 54v model. And trust me...I'm not doubting you, because there is so much misinformation out there on this motor. Not to mention the zero experience diesel mechanics that have sprung up that hand out their advice like they share DNA with Rudolph himself.

I've seen where the 6.7 guys are starting to use the LE 5w40 to address some minor issues that motor has. Was curious if there was some 6.0 experience around it as well.

 

[Texas Aggie]

I'll throw in my two cents here. I tow a fairly heavy camper, about 9-10k loaded, with my 2007 6.0l. This past fall I decided to try the 10w-30 with Archoil. I towed a couple of times in the fall and seemed to notice a smoother engine and I think it may have helped a stiction issue that was developing in cold weather. Based on what i read here, I decided to go with the same regimen when I changed the oil in the Spring. I towed over a thousand miles in heat approaching 90 degrees with no ill effects other than maybe slightly higher EOT, but not much, if any.
Within the past month, though, I've had a problem. The truck has been hard to start. I fixed a couple of things that were unrelated. One of the batteries was bad, so that was an obvious fix. I still had a hard start problem, so I changed the air filter, which may have helped a little. I think it had some life left in it, but it was on there a while and was kind of dirty so I thought why not.
After talking to a shop and doing some reading, I started to suspect the STC fitting was leaking. When there is a problem with it, hot starts are an issue. This is because the oil is too thin at temperature to pressure up the injectors (mechanics, please let me know if my description is wrong) I decided on Monday to dump the 10w-30 and added 15w-40. It seemed to help immediately. It has been cool for a couple of days, so it really hasn't been tested in hotter temps, but I haven't had a problem starting. It has been idling rough at times, so I still suspect the STC. I'll continue to monitor it for a while.
I think 10w-30 is fine in this engine if the STC is replaced with the screw in fitting, and I don't think it did any engine damage to my truck. It may have even helped some things. I do, however, think it may not work in my truck and I won't put in back in until the STC is replaced.

 

[Texas Aggie]

One more thing to add. I watch my FICM and other monitoring points with a Scanguage. The FICM voltage is consistently good.

 

[HeavyAssault06]

I recently hit 281k w/5840 hours on my 2006 F350. I've been running synthetics since the truck hit 20k miles. As the original owner I chose to use 7500 mile intervals with OEM filters. I started using a by-pass filter early in life. I'm still running the original injectors with no real stiction issues as described by many other owners.

My thoughts: Regular changes with quality oils, filters, and just drive that diesel truck.