06 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l MC 5w-20+MMO 3k

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I run 5w30 in my 127k-mile '01 Durango's 4.7, no additives. Seems to work good, have only owned it since Jan though. Had a Fram filter when I got it, which I changed to a Microgard asap because I've never been a Fram guy. Only thing I noticed is that with using a Microgard filter, the timing chains rattle a few seconds longer on start-up than they did, so I'll be switching to a Wix next time as they are supposed to have much better anti-drainback valves. On start-up you can see the gauge come up to a 1/4 gauge, hover a few seconds, then go to 3/4 gauge almost. Once warm it has a half gauge of oil pressure at idle and 3/4 as soon as you touch the gas. A tech at the dealer said 5w30 was a good weight for it.

Although I know need to do the proper fix of replace the chains and tensioners asap. Just expensive to buy for this engine.

I have been using O'reilly brand full synthetic, been considering switching it over to Pennz Platinum, but after a little reading on here, kinda considering a good HM oil instead?
 
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Originally Posted By: ForceFedMopar
I run 5w30 in my 127k-mile '01 Durango's 4.7, no additives. Seems to work good, have only owned it since Jan though. Had a Fram filter when I got it, which I changed to a Microgard asap because I've never been a Fram guy. Only thing I noticed is that with using a Microgard filter, the timing chains rattle a few seconds longer on start-up than they did, so I'll be switching to a Wix next time as they are supposed to have much better anti-drainback valves. On start-up you can see the gauge come up to a 1/4 gauge, hover a few seconds, then go to 3/4 gauge almost. Once warm it has a half gauge of oil pressure at idle and 3/4 as soon as you touch the gas. A tech at the dealer said 5w30 was a good weight for it.

Although I know need to do the proper fix of replace the chains and tensioners asap. Just expensive to buy for this engine.

I have been using O'reilly brand full synthetic, been considering switching it over to Pennz Platinum, but after a little reading on here, kinda considering a good HM oil instead?


I have never used a microgaurd, used Fram years ago, then switched to Puro Classics and Pureones. I have always had good pressure and never had any start up noise with either of those filters. Check out my post where I opened up my Mopar MO90 filter, came out great. I have heard great things about Wix also. Im going to be switching over to a full synthetic next oil change and most likely start running a puro-synthetic filter. As far as the timing chain repair, it is going to be spendy, especially if you have the dealer or another mechanic do it. You could buy the parts relatively cheap on rock auto and do it yourself if it isnt your daily driver and can be apart for a weekend. Good luck either way!
 
I'll do it myself, I've been mechanicing since I was 14. Did it for a living off and on. I can get a good price on the parts due to my employee discount at O'reilly's
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Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
the only real thing you have to worry about is how notorious the 4.7 is for self destructing. good luck.


I guess im not familiar with these engines "self destructing." The magnum engine has been around for years, and aside from being slightly underpowered has always been very reliable...



Just ignore the trolls... the 4.7 generally runs forever. 200k, 300k, and more miles are not uncommon. The ONE issue some early ones had was breaking rocker arms or (less often) the lash adjuster pocket on the head. Don't see much of that past ~2002 model year, though.

The later years are spec'd for Xw20, and its been pretty well established that its a backward-compatible spec with some benefits, including reducing the rocker arm trouble by making sure the hydraulic lash adjusters bring the lash to zero as quickly as possible.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
the 4.7 generally runs forever.


I guess your right, the turnover of vehicles i have seen on craigslist with blown 4.7L's versus any other domestic v8 is just my imagination.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
the only real thing you have to worry about is how notorious the 4.7 is for self destructing. good luck.


I guess im not familiar with these engines "self destructing." The magnum engine has been around for years, and aside from being slightly underpowered has always been very reliable...



Just ignore the trolls... the 4.7 generally runs forever. 200k, 300k, and more miles are not uncommon. The ONE issue some early ones had was breaking rocker arms or (less often) the lash adjuster pocket on the head. Don't see much of that past ~2002 model year, though.

The later years are spec'd for Xw20, and its been pretty well established that its a backward-compatible spec with some benefits, including reducing the rocker arm trouble by making sure the hydraulic lash adjusters bring the lash to zero as quickly as possible.




I remember reading on one of the Ram forums that they had been safely back specced to a 20 weight oil. I have used 20 and 30 weights and they both run fine. The 20 weight gets higher oil pressure and slightly better mileage IMO. And as for the engine life, I am far from concerned. It is well taken care off. I hope to see it live to the 200k mark and beyond. I think that some on this thread get upset just seeing the letters MMO in the title... But I do appreciate all the feedback either way.
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
the 4.7 generally runs forever.


I guess your right, the turnover of vehicles i have seen on craigslist with blown 4.7L's versus any other domestic v8 is just my imagination.


It's not imagination. Just information. The Internet will do that to ya...
 
Originally Posted By: cptbarkey

I guess your right, the turnover of vehicles i have seen on craigslist with blown 4.7L's versus any other domestic v8 is just my imagination.


90% of those that die were overheated or did not get proper oil maintenance. Same goes for the 2.7 engines.

If you don't like a brand or engine, it's real easy to find issue with them. For instance, I don't like Fords, so I see much more problems with their 4.0 SOHC engines than I do a Dodge 4.7
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Originally Posted By: SLATRON
Truck Specs 30 but your running 20 with MMO, why?
Have a pickup for daily driver? Towed with twice & air in bed?
So you going to keep using MMO because good results, what's that mean?
At 3k miles copper double avg. what's avg mileage based off of?
For extending oci use a 30 grade, keep MMO in gas tank if you can't stop yourself from using.


Hey, he's from Texas. FWIW we have them beat in per capita pickup sales here in VA. LOL I haul a lot of sailboat fuel in the bed of mine too.
 
[/quote]
Hey, he's from Texas. FWIW we have them beat in per capita pickup sales here in VA. LOL I haul a lot of sailboat fuel in the bed of mine too. [/quote]

Sailboat fuel
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I will have to remember that one
 
What the others have said regarding your oil and the addition of MMO is definitely worth taking into consideration.

MMO is approximately a 10-weight oil, with some solvent action due to the 'add pack.'

It's light stuff and it will thin your oil somewhat.

I use MMO myself in in my Sable 3.0 Duratec. I have been a bit lax in my maintenance over the last 50k miles, and I wanted to get a little extra clean-up done. I added about 8 ounces of MMO to my crankcase about 500 miles prior to my last OCI, and the oil came out VERY dark.

I added 1/2 quart to my current OCI and have been running it now for about 4k miles. The difference here, however, is that instead of the 5W-20 that my engine currently calls for, I put in 5W-30 with the MMO, as I felt that 4.5 qts of 5W-20 would be thinned down too much by .5 qts of MMO.

.. and this is a car that gets about 95% highway driving.

I should also add that once this OCI will the MMO is done, my next FEW OCIs will be done without any MMO being added. Once the MMO has done its work, it shouldn't need to be run again for some time. Just run a good oil and a good filter, and you're good.

.. and by 'good oil' I don't mean pricey. Motorcraft makes a [censored] fine 5W20 semi synth. PYB 5W-20 is also some excellent stuff. Same with QSGB 5W-20. Run any of these with confidence on a 5k OCI.
 
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
What the others have said regarding your oil and the addition of MMO is definitely worth taking into consideration.


This thread was never designed to spark a debate about the merits of MMO. I just wanted some feedback on my first UOA.

Originally Posted By: SirTanon

.. and by 'good oil' I don't mean pricey. Motorcraft makes a [censored] fine 5W20 semi synth. PYB 5W-20 is also some excellent stuff. Same with QSGB 5W-20. Run any of these with confidence on a 5k OCI.


I agree. Motorcraft makes a darn good semi-synthetic oil, and PYB is a top notch dino. I am interested to see how this mobil 5000 turns out. Seems like it should work out well for my short OCIs.
 
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
What the others have said regarding your oil and the addition of MMO is definitely worth taking into consideration.


This thread was never designed to spark a debate about the merits of MMO. I just wanted some feedback on my first UOA.


I understand, and it's definitely not what I was trying to do - I was merely pointing out that your oil will be even thinner than the 5W-20 rating after you add the MMO, and that starting with a slightly heavier-weight oil would be advisable if you do plan to continue using the MMO regularly.

That said, I don't think the UOA is anything to really worry about. See how it is with the Mobil Super 5000.. that's good oil.
 
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
Originally Posted By: jk_636
Originally Posted By: SirTanon
What the others have said regarding your oil and the addition of MMO is definitely worth taking into consideration.


This thread was never designed to spark a debate about the merits of MMO. I just wanted some feedback on my first UOA.


I understand, and it's definitely not what I was trying to do - I was merely pointing out that your oil will be even thinner than the 5W-20 rating after you add the MMO, and that starting with a slightly heavier-weight oil would be advisable if you do plan to continue using the MMO regularly.

That said, I don't think the UOA is anything to really worry about. See how it is with the Mobil Super 5000.. that's good oil.


Thanks. I was involved in the fiasco that was the MMO thread in the oil additives section, and believe me, thats not something I wanted to happen here
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I have since gone to 5-30 with MMO but Im not really so sure that 5-20 with MMO is really that dangerous.

For now I will be sticking with Mobil 5000. Its cheap and appears to have a nice additive package. Truth be told, I change my oil and filter so often that Im not even sure that it really matters anymore
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