I bought an 03' 1800 vtx last summer, 8k miles at the time. Prev owner had been using royal purple which I continued for the first couple of changes. Last change I switched to M1TD 5w-40 which I run in all of my vehicles, diesel and gasoline. I haven't seen anything about using this oil in a MC. It sounds good, quiet even after putting a thousand miles on it, and seems to shift smoother. Anybody else using M1TD in your bike ? Any reason I shouldn't ?
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel in VTX
- Thread starter vtxmike
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Most people here seem to have good results running HDEO oils such as this M1 TDT or Rotella T6 in their bikes. The only downside of such wide viscosity spread is that it tends to shear out of grade rather quickly, alas, if the shifting is still smooth, then that's all that matters I think. It should be good for at least 2-3K miles in a shared sump, IMO.
M1 TDT was my 'cold weather' oil for my V Star 650 a few years back. No ill effects. Figured it's got to be very similar to Rotella T6. I didn't run it very long, put it in in the late Fall and dumped it in the late Spring, maybe 1500 miles. Bike sat for several months in between for Winter. I prefer a 20w50/15w50 in the hot weather but think the 40 is fine for the cold. With a shared sump I assume the 5w40 would shear sooner than later as well. I think I still have 1qt of the M1 TDT left, probably put it in the bike later this year to get rid of it.
I'm not real well educated on shear and wear properties of oil but I assumed that M1TD would have to handle things like shear pretty good to do so well in my diesel suburban. The viscosity spread is the same as in RT6 5w-40 and a lot of guys use that for the life of their bikes, changing oil at 4k to 8k intervals. I like changing my oil at no more than 4k intervals regardless of how good it is. I've used RT6 and M1TD both in my diesel suburban before, and while they both make the engine run quiet when the oil is new, It's still almost as quiet after 1000 miles with M1TD, not as quiet with RT6 after same amount of miles. Or Maybe that's not representative of anything.? Does the MC specific grade synthetics such as amsoil or M1_4T handle shear any better than the HDEO's ? Sure a big difference in cost - again, just looking to learn here.
While I'm at it, I want to throw in that I have an 84 F150 that I bought new with 330k miles on it. 351 4VHO. I had it rebuilt at 275k miles due to a bad leaking rear seal plus my inexperienced driver teenage son letting it run too low on oil some years back. I'm using M1TD in it now, but for it's first 200k or so miles it got nothing but Castrol "Turbo Approved" SAE 30 dino oil. Also had a 84 Buick skyhawk 4 cylinder - my other son wrecked it about 10 years ago with 275k miles on it and it also got nothing but Castrol 'Turbo approved' 30 weight dino oil.
While I'm at it, I want to throw in that I have an 84 F150 that I bought new with 330k miles on it. 351 4VHO. I had it rebuilt at 275k miles due to a bad leaking rear seal plus my inexperienced driver teenage son letting it run too low on oil some years back. I'm using M1TD in it now, but for it's first 200k or so miles it got nothing but Castrol "Turbo Approved" SAE 30 dino oil. Also had a 84 Buick skyhawk 4 cylinder - my other son wrecked it about 10 years ago with 275k miles on it and it also got nothing but Castrol 'Turbo approved' 30 weight dino oil.
Originally Posted By: vtxmike
but I assumed that M1TD would have to handle things like shear pretty good to do so well in my diesel suburban.
Quite different operating environments. Your diesel suburban does not have a wet clutch/shared sump like your VTX. These wet clutches in bikes can be pretty rough on oil.
Quote:
The viscosity spread is the same as in RT6 5w-40 and a lot of guys use that for the life of their bikes, changing oil at 4k to 8k intervals.
If you read some of the reports here on BITOG, many people note that the mineral T 15w-40 is actually more shear stable than the synthetic T6 5w-40. But again, as long as your clutch/shifting feels right, then you can typically continue on using it.
but I assumed that M1TD would have to handle things like shear pretty good to do so well in my diesel suburban.
Quite different operating environments. Your diesel suburban does not have a wet clutch/shared sump like your VTX. These wet clutches in bikes can be pretty rough on oil.
Quote:
The viscosity spread is the same as in RT6 5w-40 and a lot of guys use that for the life of their bikes, changing oil at 4k to 8k intervals.
If you read some of the reports here on BITOG, many people note that the mineral T 15w-40 is actually more shear stable than the synthetic T6 5w-40. But again, as long as your clutch/shifting feels right, then you can typically continue on using it.
Just be aware that the VTX1800's have had clutch problems. If you're on the original clutch, you might well be replacing it, no matter which oil you're using.
If it didn't slip with that Royal Purple, then it certainly won't slip with the M1TD.
Still, my personal preference is the 15w-40 grade.
If it didn't slip with that Royal Purple, then it certainly won't slip with the M1TD.
Still, my personal preference is the 15w-40 grade.
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Just be aware that the VTX1800's have had clutch problems.
What about the clutch is the problem???
Just be aware that the VTX1800's have had clutch problems.
What about the clutch is the problem???
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Just be aware that the VTX1800's have had clutch problems.
What about the clutch is the problem???
The 1800's appear to have weak clutch springs. One fix is to replace the spring set with something a big stiffer. However, by the time the problem shows itself - it's also time to replace the clutch plates.
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Just be aware that the VTX1800's have had clutch problems.
What about the clutch is the problem???
The 1800's appear to have weak clutch springs. One fix is to replace the spring set with something a big stiffer. However, by the time the problem shows itself - it's also time to replace the clutch plates.
Im aware that the clutch is the weak link in the 1800, no problems yet. On the oil, I was hoping I could find a good full synthetic with no friction modifiers and in the 15w-40 viscosity range without shelling out a big price for amxoil or m14t. The M1 car grade stuff in that range says it for high-mileage vehicles, not sure what that means. I really like mobile 1 because of the way my diesel and car gas engines sound with it, But M1TD and Rotella T6 are both 5w-40. Which 15w-40 do you use kballowe ?
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Originally Posted By: kballowe
The 1800's appear to have weak clutch springs.
Do you mean Honda installed weak springs or they grow weak with miles ridden???
The 1800's appear to have weak clutch springs.
Do you mean Honda installed weak springs or they grow weak with miles ridden???
I remember Honda Shadows at one point also suffered from weak clutch springs. So this would not be unheard of. Most people don't have a problem with them, but some do. I would say they are marginal more than weak if I had to put a label on it
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
I remember Honda Shadows at one point also suffered from weak clutch springs. So this would not be unheard of. Most people don't have a problem with them, but some do. I would say they are marginal more than weak if I had to put a label on it
It's true that the clutch is the weakest link in the vtx 1800 power train, and some people do have trouble with the clutch slipping and replace it, usually with an MTC clutch and springs, some just replace the springs. But the vast majority like me don't have any clutch problems. There are a lot of 1800s with high miles on them still on the original clutch. The 1800 has a lot of torque and power and the harder you ride the harder it is on the clutch. Mine just has 18k miles on it and until I have a problem, Ill use the clutch that came in it. Clutch and spring replacement is a fairly inexpensive and easy job.
Any suggestions on a good 15w-40 full synthetic oil for my vtx ?
I remember Honda Shadows at one point also suffered from weak clutch springs. So this would not be unheard of. Most people don't have a problem with them, but some do. I would say they are marginal more than weak if I had to put a label on it
It's true that the clutch is the weakest link in the vtx 1800 power train, and some people do have trouble with the clutch slipping and replace it, usually with an MTC clutch and springs, some just replace the springs. But the vast majority like me don't have any clutch problems. There are a lot of 1800s with high miles on them still on the original clutch. The 1800 has a lot of torque and power and the harder you ride the harder it is on the clutch. Mine just has 18k miles on it and until I have a problem, Ill use the clutch that came in it. Clutch and spring replacement is a fairly inexpensive and easy job.
Any suggestions on a good 15w-40 full synthetic oil for my vtx ?
Originally Posted By: bulwnkl
RLI? I like their 5W40HD (now available at Amazon.com), but they make a 15w40 as well, if that's what you want.
If you read through above thread, 5w-40 may not offer very good shear protection because of the wide viscosity spread. As far as I can tell, the only full synthetic 15w-40 oil available is Royal Purple, Red Line, Lucas and Amsoil. Amsoil is great oil but I'm looking for something a little less expensive. Maybe I should just keep using the M1TD 5w-40 and not worry about it.
RLI? I like their 5W40HD (now available at Amazon.com), but they make a 15w40 as well, if that's what you want.
If you read through above thread, 5w-40 may not offer very good shear protection because of the wide viscosity spread. As far as I can tell, the only full synthetic 15w-40 oil available is Royal Purple, Red Line, Lucas and Amsoil. Amsoil is great oil but I'm looking for something a little less expensive. Maybe I should just keep using the M1TD 5w-40 and not worry about it.
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