Laboratory Analysis of MMO

Originally Posted By: Clubber_Lang
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Low flashpoint.


yes, its supposed to burn off gradually as it cleans



Here is a stair step description of what would evaporate from first to last:

Chlorinated Hydrocarbons of orthodichlorobenzenes >> Mineral Spirits (deodorized Kerosene) >> Naphthenic Hydrocarbons
 
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Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
So why does it smell like wintergreen?


Quote:
BTW, the paraffinic hydrocarbons were C11-C14, n-alkanes, normally denoted as "dearomatized kerosene."


Which is essentially Kerosene that has been hydrotreated. Odorants are then added to make it smell more pleasant.
 
Originally Posted By: Boomer
It is the chlorinated species (ortho-dichloro benzene and isomers) that really made MMO a useful additive in engines when leaded gas was around. It supplemented the dibromoethane used as a lead scavenger in the engine and kept the engines clean.

Lead oxide was formed (a white powder) and the halogen compounds reacted with this oxide to produce lead bromide and chloride which was voltile and went out the tailpipe. In the air , it reacted with water to form hydrochloric/hydrobromic acid and various lead acids and oxides.


Thanks, Boomer, for that additional historical perspective.
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Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
what's your professional opinion of this stuff Mola?


1) Probably a decent fuel system cleaner,
2) and flush for adding to oil just before changing it. This is assuming of course you have evidence of, or suspect a dirty engine.

Since it has a very low viscosity, I certainly wouldn't leave it in the engine oil as it might thin it down to much, especially if your oil is already a XW20 weight oil.

When the oils were low detergent oils such as SB through SF, it might have helped.

Modern oils have such high detergency I doubt you really need to use this in concert with an engine oil.



As for fuel systems, the more modern Redline SI-1 and Techron should take care of any fuel system and upper engine area cleaning.


Do you think it has any value as a fuel maintenance dose in the directions of 4oz. per 10 gallons of fuel?
 
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh


Do you think it has any value as a fuel maintenance dose in the directions of 4oz. per 10 gallons of fuel?


Historically, when gasoline fuel did not have the modern additives it has today, it probably had more efficacy.

It would fractionally increase (at less than 0.01%) the benzene content already in gasoline fuel.

Does it do any harm? Probably not.

You have to look at the data, and the cost of the product, and determine if there are any advantages with respect to your budget.
 
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BTW, the testing (done in April) did not check for sulfur.

That was to be done this upcoming semester.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh


Do you think it has any value as a fuel maintenance dose in the directions of 4oz. per 10 gallons of fuel?


Does it do any harm? Probably not.


At 4 oz. per 10 gal. and 25 mpg, you are putting the equivalent of burning 1 qt. of oil per 2000 miles in phosphorus through your cat. Will that cause long term problems? I don't know, but the less phosphorus thru the cat the better.

If your goal is cleanliness, an additive containing PEA is better all around.

Ed
 
Yes.

I have used the Rislone Engine Treatment (1-Quart plastic Yellow Bottle) to cure a suspected VVT control valve problem in a '03 Nissan PathFinder. It has a synthetic friction modifier as well as concentrated cleaning abilities.
 
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At 4oz. per 10 gal. that comes out to 320:1 ratio ... At closer to 2 ~ 3 oz. per 10 gal would perhaps still give you a bit more lube in the E10 dry gas while not over doing it ?
 
Originally Posted By: edhackett
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh


Do you think it has any value as a fuel maintenance dose in the directions of 4oz. per 10 gallons of fuel?


Does it do any harm? Probably not.


At 4 oz. per 10 gal. and 25 mpg, you are putting the equivalent of burning 1 qt. of oil per 2000 miles in phosphorus through your cat. Will that cause long term problems? I don't know, but the less phosphorus thru the cat the better.

If your goal is cleanliness, an additive containing PEA is better all around.

Ed
 
Would it make a good injector lubricant and uppervalve train lube?

I seemed to get better mileage and a smoother engine when I used it.
 
No and no.

The injector pintle does not need lubrication, it needs cleaning once in awhile.

Your motor oil provides valve train lubrication.
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
At 4oz. per 10 gal. that comes out to 320:1 ratio ... At closer to 2 ~ 3 oz. per 10 gal would perhaps still give you a bit more lube in the E10 dry gas while not over doing it ?


What makes you think that modern, E10 capable EFI automobiles need additional "lubrication" in gas?

(what makes you believe it's "Dry" to begin with)

Perhaps I'd be more clear on this said subject: what about avg joes who run their E85 automobile mainly on E85 fuel---wouldn't that imply that the fuel is so "dry" (mainly comprised of ethanol, with 15% of fossil based fuel ) that shouldn't their fuel pump dies in mere thousands of miles of continuous usage, or maybe just a year or 2?

Statistically speaking: how many E85 automobiles sold in NA during the past 7yrs have suffered from fuel-related fuel pump damage or premature failure due to fuel "too dry"?

my take is that there's not such need for added lubrication in modern gasoline blend (which is blended for emissions and EFI engines in mind to begin with).

Q.
 
Quest : I have read various reports from the TCW-3 oil crowd that E-10 is dry and causes corrosion in fuel systems thus I'm assuming that using TCW-3 or MMO in some modest quantity may possibly help with fuel system lube .
 
Say what? It's dry and causes corrosion?

Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Quest : I have read various reports from the TCW-3 oil crowd that E-10 is dry and causes corrosion in fuel systems thus I'm assuming that using TCW-3 or MMO in some modest quantity may possibly help with fuel system lube .
 
"dry" is typically referencing an apparent lack of lubricity, not the presence or otherwise of water.
 
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