Has anyone ever used a product called Bestline engine treatment?
Any additives that offer "the full package"
- Thread starter Shannow
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MolaKule
Staff member
I have.
It has a 5W20 base oil and is mostly a cleaner with some friction modifiers and AW components.
It has a 5W20 base oil and is mostly a cleaner with some friction modifiers and AW components.
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
I have.
It has a 5W20 base oil and is mostly a cleaner with some friction modifiers and AW components.
How was your experience with it?
Would you recommend it or is it a pass?
I have.
It has a 5W20 base oil and is mostly a cleaner with some friction modifiers and AW components.
How was your experience with it?
Would you recommend it or is it a pass?
MolaKule
Staff member
It is not a cureall but it did solve what we think was a sticking VVT control valve problem. It does appear to have some extra cleaning ability.
I don't recommend using any OTC additive willy-nilly unless you have a specific problem to solve.
I would also add that when you use an additive and you think your problem is solved, drain it and refill with a good quality oil.
To answer Shannow's question, I don't know of any OTC PI package in a can that will do what he wants.
In formulating any oil, one has to examine the type of base oil (it's viscosity and what is already in it), add the PI package, test viscosity, add a VII to get close to the viscosity needed, test again, and then tweak if necessary.
I don't recommend using any OTC additive willy-nilly unless you have a specific problem to solve.
I would also add that when you use an additive and you think your problem is solved, drain it and refill with a good quality oil.
To answer Shannow's question, I don't know of any OTC PI package in a can that will do what he wants.
In formulating any oil, one has to examine the type of base oil (it's viscosity and what is already in it), add the PI package, test viscosity, add a VII to get close to the viscosity needed, test again, and then tweak if necessary.
Last edited:
MolaKule
Staff member
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
It is not a cureall but it did solve what we think was a sticking VVT control valve problem. It does appear to have some extra cleaning ability.
I don't recommend using any OTC additive willy-nilly unless you have a specific problem to solve.
I would also add that when you use an additive and you think your problem is solved, drain it and refill with a good quality oil.
To answer Shannow's question, I don't know of any OTC PI package in a can that will do what he wants.
In formulating any oil, one has to examine the type of base oil (it's viscosity and what is already in it), add the PI package, test viscosity, add a VII to get close to the viscosity needed, test again, and then tweak if necessary.
Correction:
The additive I was referring to was Rislone Engine Treatment. I have never used Bestline and have never heard of it until the poster mentioned it.
Bestline appears to have PTFE a Teflon component so I would be wary.
It is not a cureall but it did solve what we think was a sticking VVT control valve problem. It does appear to have some extra cleaning ability.
I don't recommend using any OTC additive willy-nilly unless you have a specific problem to solve.
I would also add that when you use an additive and you think your problem is solved, drain it and refill with a good quality oil.
To answer Shannow's question, I don't know of any OTC PI package in a can that will do what he wants.
In formulating any oil, one has to examine the type of base oil (it's viscosity and what is already in it), add the PI package, test viscosity, add a VII to get close to the viscosity needed, test again, and then tweak if necessary.
Correction:
The additive I was referring to was Rislone Engine Treatment. I have never used Bestline and have never heard of it until the poster mentioned it.
Bestline appears to have PTFE a Teflon component so I would be wary.
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Best thing to do might be to use Mobil 1 Racing 0w-30 as an additive.
Only use 1 quart of course in at least a 5 quart sump.
Mix with Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30 at 4 to 1 or 6 to 1, just a quart at a time, maybe pump up the additive package on older oil for makeup oil.
See VOA at Mobil 1 Racing Oil VOA link click on this here text right here.
Only use 1 quart of course in at least a 5 quart sump.
Mix with Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30 at 4 to 1 or 6 to 1, just a quart at a time, maybe pump up the additive package on older oil for makeup oil.
See VOA at Mobil 1 Racing Oil VOA link click on this here text right here.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: dave5358
Easy. Use an additive with MoS2 - Molykote or Liqui-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction. MoS2 additives have only positive results (unless you are concerned about oil coloration). MoS2 is quite inert so it does not interact with or mess up the additive package already in the oil. Very few additives or additive packages can say that.
Having answered your question, I note that you never indicated what you were trying to accomplish with the additive.
MoS2 is not inert. It contains Sulfur and Sulfur Dioxide(acidic) thus when exposed to the combustion process sulfuric acid is formed.
Also for MoS2 to effective it has to be part of the formulation. Once one part has exceeded the parameters for the formulation the performance of the formulation has become degraded not enhanced.
Liqui-Moly's flavour of course has a sulfur component however they formulate their additive with boron which iirc is basic and will bring the ph level closer to to neutral or more which therefore shouldn't do anything more then raising the tbn of the oil its being added to.
I've been using liqui-moly mos2 for many years now and I've torn down engines that used it for in excess of 100k and I've never seen any obvious problems such as deposits and the rings didn't have any deposits that were enough to affect cylinder seal,nor was there evidence of any blow-by.
Funny observation. I've still got the cams,heads and timing parts from a 4.6 that used mos2. They are in a box where they've been for around 3 years when I tore it apart.
There isn't so much as a hint of rust or pitting or any corrosion at all and the metal feels ultra slick like there's a thin coating of oil something on them.
3 years in a box in my garage exposed to all the elements and still look like they just came out. So I figure that the mos2 left a layer on everything it touched and that's why they are still slick to the touch.
I know its either pro additive or anti-additive around here and I for one am not interested in reviving dead debates, I'm just sharing an experience
Originally Posted By: dave5358
Easy. Use an additive with MoS2 - Molykote or Liqui-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction. MoS2 additives have only positive results (unless you are concerned about oil coloration). MoS2 is quite inert so it does not interact with or mess up the additive package already in the oil. Very few additives or additive packages can say that.
Having answered your question, I note that you never indicated what you were trying to accomplish with the additive.
MoS2 is not inert. It contains Sulfur and Sulfur Dioxide(acidic) thus when exposed to the combustion process sulfuric acid is formed.
Also for MoS2 to effective it has to be part of the formulation. Once one part has exceeded the parameters for the formulation the performance of the formulation has become degraded not enhanced.
Liqui-Moly's flavour of course has a sulfur component however they formulate their additive with boron which iirc is basic and will bring the ph level closer to to neutral or more which therefore shouldn't do anything more then raising the tbn of the oil its being added to.
I've been using liqui-moly mos2 for many years now and I've torn down engines that used it for in excess of 100k and I've never seen any obvious problems such as deposits and the rings didn't have any deposits that were enough to affect cylinder seal,nor was there evidence of any blow-by.
Funny observation. I've still got the cams,heads and timing parts from a 4.6 that used mos2. They are in a box where they've been for around 3 years when I tore it apart.
There isn't so much as a hint of rust or pitting or any corrosion at all and the metal feels ultra slick like there's a thin coating of oil something on them.
3 years in a box in my garage exposed to all the elements and still look like they just came out. So I figure that the mos2 left a layer on everything it touched and that's why they are still slick to the touch.
I know its either pro additive or anti-additive around here and I for one am not interested in reviving dead debates, I'm just sharing an experience
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