Home Brew CLP's

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I have collected the following off of the web - not sure how all of them work but many sound interesting and in the spirit of this web site may be worth trying (YMMV) :

CLP’s :

7 parts M1 20W50 V- Twin Motorcycle Oil
2 parts Dextron IV
1 part MMO
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4 parts M1 5W30 ~ 20W50
2 parts Dextron IV
2 parts STP Oil Treatment (Blue Bottle)
2 parts MMO
1 part Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner OR
1 part Mineral Spirits
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6 parts M1 20W 50 V - Twin Motorcycle Oil
2 parts Dextron IV
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4 oz. M1 5W30 ~ 20W50
2oz. Dextron IV
1.9 oz. STP Oil Treatment (Blue Bottle)
0.5 oz. Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner
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7 parts M1 20W 50 V- Twin Motorcycle Oil
3 parts Dextron IV
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2 parts M1 5W30 ~ 20W50
2 parts Dextron IV
3 parts STP Oil Treatment (Blue Bottle)
1 part Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner
1 part MMO
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1.5oz. M1 5W30 ~ 20W 50
1 oz. Dextron IV
1 oz. MMO
0.5 oz STP Blue Oil Treatment (Blue Bottle)
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10 parts Lucas Air Tool Oil
1 part Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner
Add Dextron IV until mixture becomes red in color
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2 parts M1 20W 50 V- Twin Motorcycle Oil
2 parts Dextron IV
1 part MMO
1 part STP Blue Bottle Oil Treatment
1/8 oz. Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner
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4 parts M1 5W30 ~ 20W 50
2 parts Dextron IV
0.95 parts STP Blue Bottle Oil Treatment
0.45 parts Hoppes #9 Bore Cleaner
------------------------------------------

Final Lube:

2 parts M1 5W20 V- Twin Motorcycle Oil
1 part Dextron VI
1 part Lucas Air Tool Oil
 
Most of those look like they have nothing in common with CLP. Probably be better off going with a 50/50 mix of ATF/motor oil and kerosene than some of those.
 
Since you can get a 16oz supply of CLP for less than $20, how much are you really saving with a home brew? All those ingredients have a cost as well...so the savings is a few dollars per year...for something that doesn't work as well on a collection of guns that is worth, what, many thousands of dollars?

Seems a false economy to me...
 
* My bad - Should be Dextron VI nor IV !

* Grant Cunningham's site has interesting information on CLP's that may change your mind .

* Lucas Red #2 Grease suitable for slides comes in a large 16oz. tub for $6.00 while the same #1 or #2 grease for guns comes in a small syringe for $7.00 + .

* A lot of 1911 semi - auto owners use M1 20W 50 or a M1 / Dextron VI mix with very good results !

* I own and use : Balistol , Slip 2000 EWL , Weapon Shield and MPro 7 to name a few ... I would not consider making anything on my own unless I already had the ingredients on the garage shelf . Glocks & Rugers are not too picky regarding what you CLP them with .
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
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* A lot of 1911 semi - auto owners use M1 20W 50 or a M1 / Dextron VI mix with very good results !
.


I don't quite get it. Why not just go for the viscosity you're aiming for first, rather then making a mix that yields an intermediate viscosity. If some other additization intrinsic to motor oil is desirable, just add it...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
.

* A lot of 1911 semi - auto owners use M1 20W 50 or a M1 / Dextron VI mix with very good results !
.


I don't quite get it. Why not just go for the viscosity you're aiming for first, rather then making a mix that yields an intermediate viscosity. If some other additization intrinsic to motor oil is desirable, just add it...


I use motor oil and ATF in a 50/50 ratio. I wasn't aiming for a particular viscosity, I used what was readily available, in my case Supertech 5w-30 Synth and ST Dex/Merc ATF. The ATF makes my AR a bit easier to clean versus straight motor oil, and this combo product lasts longer under use than Breakfree CLP on an AR BCG.

The nice thing about a motor oil/ATF combo is that pretty much anyone can try it for virtually no investment. Use the leftovers from a fluid change. Even an ounce of each will be plenty for a test. Repurposed contact lens solution bottles work well for that.

I'll also add that I use it for lubrication only. It is too "sticky" to use as a protectant. Surfaces that need rust protection get a wipe of Boeshield T9.
 
In a pinch I have found liquid wrench chain lube to be a good ersatz gun lube. Like gun lubes it has extreme pressure additives, goes on thin but thickens to resist "sling off", had corrosion inhibitors for steel components, and is pretty darn cheap.
 
* Dexron it is !

* I didn't create any of the recipes , I just reported what I found on various sites .

* My weapons get rubbed down with Corrosion X and then only areas that need grease or a lube get it .
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Since you can get a 16oz supply of CLP for less than $20, how much are you really saving with a home brew? All those ingredients have a cost as well...so the savings is a few dollars per year...for something that doesn't work as well on a collection of guns that is worth, what, many thousands of dollars?

Seems a false economy to me...


BINGO!! Close thread.
 
Some exotic gun lubes are quite expensive in comparison (i.e. Gun Butter , Frog Lube) - besides what Grant Cunningham has to say on his web site about lubrication of firearms , there are countless others in the 1911 and AR semi - auto community who shoot more in a week then I do in a whole year who swear by "Ed's Red" CLP and other offshoot recipes I included here for grins . Perhaps due to the platforms they shoot (AR and 1911) and running these weapons wet - they find M1 20W 50 V-Twin synthetic oil , Dexron VI ATF, etc. to be quality lubricants which they consider cost effective . That said , I'm fine with people who decide that Break Free CLP is perfect for their usage based on how much they shoot .
 
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"Ed's Red" is totally different than anything you posted here. It actually looks like it would be of use but I've never tried it.

Equal parts ATF/kerosene/mineral spirits/acetone.

Bottom line is that if you're shooting enough that lube costs are getting high, money isn't an issue in the first place. A gallon of CLP is $80. Or about 250-300 rounds of cheap .223.
 
Besides all of the above arguments against using home made CLPs, One thing to remember is that all the homebrews are going to stink! You do not want to spill any of those homebrews or use them inside if you or anyone else in your house has a sensitive nose.

I actually used to use (years ago) ed's red as my general gun cleaner. The bad smell and head aches were the reasons I stopped using it.

That is one of the main reasons I like Breakfree CLP and CorrosionX so much, they have almost no odor. If you really like ZERO odor, super lube is the best. I also like and recommend ballistol but its strong black licorice smell turn a lot of people off.
 
I still use Hoppe's cleaner and gun oil. I don't use the #9 solvent; I use the Elite solvent in a small spray bottle form. There is no odor and it's supposed to be safe(r) for yourself, your indoor air quality, etc. Then I lube with a few drops of gun oil...both in a patch through the bore and on the slide rail blocks in the frame. Bench Rest 9 is what I have at the moment, but I'm not opposed to any of the various gun-specific oils, or even a CLP in liquid form (like Breakfree, Rem Oil, etc).

The only CLP that I've tried to use exclusively is Ballistol. It doesn't seem to clean quite as well as a dedicated cleaner, and I also don't like the way it tends to "gum up" after a while in the gun. The slide rail blocks on my Shield had some Ballistol residue on them after sitting for a month, and while I wouldn't call that residue "sticky", it didn't feel smooth to the touch either.
 
Huge point AMC ! Many of these ingredients are going to stink for sure ... Although I use it , Ballistol smells like a cross between dirty gym socks and black licorice .
 
I recently bought some M-Pro7 cleaner and I haven't been impressed with it. I see nothing special about it other than making my wallet lighter.

I will stick with my cleaner in a jar which is mineral spirits + some leftover ATF, HD30 and maybe some LC20 thrown in.

I tried Ballistol, but I no longer trust any oil that is capable of emulsifying with water. I'll leave Ballistol to the black powder and corrosive ammo crowds.
 
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Originally Posted By: jhMalibu
I recently bought some M-Pro7 cleaner and I haven't been impressed with it. I see nothing special about it other than making my wallet lighter.

I will stick with my cleaner in a jar which is mineral spirits


M-Pro 7 is my favorite cleaner. You can use it in the house, its non toxic, and the kids can be around. And, it works pretty darn good too.

Of course, mineral spirits, brake cleaner, and Hoppes number 9 original all work pretty good too, but they smell horrendous. Since I clean about 3-4 guns a week on average, I have gotten away from the stinky, toxic stuff and gone to using M-Pro 7 exclusively. It's a great cleaner.
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
"Ed's Red" is totally different than anything you posted here. It actually looks like it would be of use but I've never tried it.

Equal parts ATF/kerosene/mineral spirits/acetone.


I use Ed's red to clean my shotgun barrels or let stuff soak. Its easy to make and leave in paint can. Small parts that get build up on them are easily cleaned after an over night soak in Ed's Red.
 
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