Coked Rings & Oil Burning Reduction Experiments.
- Thread starter Turk
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It sounds like you may already be doing this, but you can not total the car by accepting a bit less than it would take to total the car, i.e., if damage of $2000 = total, and $1700 = not total, do that. No salvage title, and you fix it the way you want.
I did just that a couple years ago with an old 77 Chevy pickup I had. I got something like $1300 for damage that would have normally been maybe $1900 and they would have totaled it. No salvage title, and I got it fixed the way I wanted.
Talk with him if he gives a price that means totaling it. The insurance company really doesn't want to total your car; it's just numbers to them, though personal to you. And this way, there's no problem with their continuing to insure the car.
I did just that a couple years ago with an old 77 Chevy pickup I had. I got something like $1300 for damage that would have normally been maybe $1900 and they would have totaled it. No salvage title, and I got it fixed the way I wanted.
Talk with him if he gives a price that means totaling it. The insurance company really doesn't want to total your car; it's just numbers to them, though personal to you. And this way, there's no problem with their continuing to insure the car.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Turk
Well............
There's one big wrench to the experiment. Just got into my 1st in 36 years head-on collision.
A 5-Car chain reaction. Laid on my brakes as hard as I could. Didn't hit the Acura MDX hard at all, but my hood crumpled right up.
I'll get this fixed & back on the road as it's only the hood & the front. Side quarters are fine.
We'll keep the experiment going.
Still. Muh baby.....
I rear-ended an Olds Bravada with my '99 SL1. My hood did the exact same thing.
The Bravada was fine.
As for your oil issue, I'd add Kreen to the crankcase and fuel tank, do a piston soak, and also a compression test. I also wouldn't put expensive M1 TDT in something that's drinking oil like your twin cam is. 15W-40 Supertech in the summer, 5W-30 Supertech in the winter.
Good luck, I love the S-Series!
Well............
There's one big wrench to the experiment. Just got into my 1st in 36 years head-on collision.
A 5-Car chain reaction. Laid on my brakes as hard as I could. Didn't hit the Acura MDX hard at all, but my hood crumpled right up.
I'll get this fixed & back on the road as it's only the hood & the front. Side quarters are fine.
We'll keep the experiment going.
Still. Muh baby.....
I rear-ended an Olds Bravada with my '99 SL1. My hood did the exact same thing.
The Bravada was fine.
As for your oil issue, I'd add Kreen to the crankcase and fuel tank, do a piston soak, and also a compression test. I also wouldn't put expensive M1 TDT in something that's drinking oil like your twin cam is. 15W-40 Supertech in the summer, 5W-30 Supertech in the winter.
Good luck, I love the S-Series!
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2024
I think Turk got the M1TDT super cheap at AutoZone/Walmart during a super special. Some lucky people got it for $1 a quart. I stocked up at $12.99 a gallon
Ok, here's the Insurance update:
The Appraiser was totally independent & actually did a lot of research.
He found a Radiator Support for $150, but 15 hours to replace it; the labor is the most expense for everything!
He valued it ~$4100, ~$4400 with taxes, fees, etc. & said it would cost $4100 for a shop to fix it, so the fixing cost is the same as the appraised value.
So, I called the Ins Rep, she was great & works at home. She said 2 scenarios:
Scenario #1: If I don't want the car, they would give me a check for $3100 (to $3400?) & the car would go to the Salvage Yard.
Scenario #2: If I want the car, they would subtract what the Salvage would be (~$500), subtract the $1000 Deductible & write me a check for the rest, about $2600-$2900. No more coverage of Comp or Collision on this car. Me & my Neighbor would probably fix the car.
Keep in mind it's RARE, got new Tires, new Struts, new Brakes, etc.
What would you (honestly) do??
The Appraiser was totally independent & actually did a lot of research.
He found a Radiator Support for $150, but 15 hours to replace it; the labor is the most expense for everything!
He valued it ~$4100, ~$4400 with taxes, fees, etc. & said it would cost $4100 for a shop to fix it, so the fixing cost is the same as the appraised value.
So, I called the Ins Rep, she was great & works at home. She said 2 scenarios:
Scenario #1: If I don't want the car, they would give me a check for $3100 (to $3400?) & the car would go to the Salvage Yard.
Scenario #2: If I want the car, they would subtract what the Salvage would be (~$500), subtract the $1000 Deductible & write me a check for the rest, about $2600-$2900. No more coverage of Comp or Collision on this car. Me & my Neighbor would probably fix the car.
Keep in mind it's RARE, got new Tires, new Struts, new Brakes, etc.
What would you (honestly) do??
Originally Posted By: Finz
Given the closeness of the 2 valuations, if I had the room, the time, and the love for the car that you appear to have, I wouldn't hesitate to keep the car.
Yep, that's what I'm leaning to strongly, especially being rare.
If it was just a regular car, I'd probably not.
Given the closeness of the 2 valuations, if I had the room, the time, and the love for the car that you appear to have, I wouldn't hesitate to keep the car.
Yep, that's what I'm leaning to strongly, especially being rare.
If it was just a regular car, I'd probably not.
Originally Posted By: Turk
Originally Posted By: Finz
Given the closeness of the 2 valuations, if I had the room, the time, and the love for the car that you appear to have, I wouldn't hesitate to keep the car.
Yep, that's what I'm leaning to strongly, especially being rare.
If it was just a regular car, I'd probably not.
From what I read online, the Red Hot package was cosmetic only. It seems like something you could replicate with another SC that has fewer miles, fewer problems, and fewer smashed parts.
But, you are in love with the car, so you should probably keep it. If every decision we made in life was based on logic and reason, things would get dull.
While repairing it, use quality parts and make sure to take care of the "while I'm at it" items. Leave the painting to a pro if you've never done it.
Originally Posted By: Finz
Given the closeness of the 2 valuations, if I had the room, the time, and the love for the car that you appear to have, I wouldn't hesitate to keep the car.
Yep, that's what I'm leaning to strongly, especially being rare.
If it was just a regular car, I'd probably not.
From what I read online, the Red Hot package was cosmetic only. It seems like something you could replicate with another SC that has fewer miles, fewer problems, and fewer smashed parts.
But, you are in love with the car, so you should probably keep it. If every decision we made in life was based on logic and reason, things would get dull.
While repairing it, use quality parts and make sure to take care of the "while I'm at it" items. Leave the painting to a pro if you've never done it.
15 hours to replace a radiator support? What, is that after having 15 beers or something???
As long as the fenders are good, the coolign system or A/C isn't damaged, there's no damage to the suspension etc., I'd keep it
As long as the fenders are good, the coolign system or A/C isn't damaged, there's no damage to the suspension etc., I'd keep it
I've only bought one 'totaled' vehicle back in my lifetime, but it turned out to be a very good decision financially.
This may actually work out well for ya! Good luck...
This may actually work out well for ya! Good luck...
Burning that much oil, does the OBDII check engine light come on for anything? Like the upstream and downstream (of the cat) oxygen sensors?
Originally Posted By: route66mike
Burning that much oil, does the OBDII check engine light come on for anything? Like the upstream and downstream (of the cat) oxygen sensors?
Nope, no SES lights.
This Red Hot runs & drives like a champ!
Decision: I'll be keeping it. Will be a Salvage Title & will be fixing most/all of it myself, with a bit of help from the guy down the street.
Thanks guys, now to start fixing it.
Burning that much oil, does the OBDII check engine light come on for anything? Like the upstream and downstream (of the cat) oxygen sensors?
Nope, no SES lights.
This Red Hot runs & drives like a champ!
Decision: I'll be keeping it. Will be a Salvage Title & will be fixing most/all of it myself, with a bit of help from the guy down the street.
Thanks guys, now to start fixing it.
Originally Posted By: route66mike
Burning that much oil, does the OBDII check engine light come on for anything? Like the upstream and downstream (of the cat) oxygen sensors?
I've burnt the same amount of oil as Turk since 120K miles. It took until 185K or 190K to trigger a check engine - P0410. I'm sure mine had been burning for a good time based on the consumption.
Burning that much oil, does the OBDII check engine light come on for anything? Like the upstream and downstream (of the cat) oxygen sensors?
I've burnt the same amount of oil as Turk since 120K miles. It took until 185K or 190K to trigger a check engine - P0410. I'm sure mine had been burning for a good time based on the consumption.
Take the money and run!! You could probably fix this car and buy another one for what they are paying you if you can find the parts reasonably priced.
I have a buddy that has 4-5 Saturns just like yours in various states of rebuild (obviously not the special edition though). He buys them cheap (usually a head gasket or something like that) and flips them over a weekend, #1 item on his repair list is always new rings to fix the oil consumption issue.
I have a buddy that has 4-5 Saturns just like yours in various states of rebuild (obviously not the special edition though). He buys them cheap (usually a head gasket or something like that) and flips them over a weekend, #1 item on his repair list is always new rings to fix the oil consumption issue.
Update time.....
I finished repairing the Red Hot and it's fully ready for the road!
Swapped hoods, front bumper & radiator supports, etc. from a $400 donor Saturn SC2.
Recap: There's 2,000 miles on the PYB 5w-30 + LubeGard Bio-Tech. It's burning 1/2 Qt of oil per ~200 miles. I added 14 Oz. of KREEN to the oil about 100 miles ago.
The oil is BLACK already.
Plan:
1) Since gas is cheaper, I'm going to do some Freeway runs to get this mixture running through the engine, maybe a couple of 300 mile day runs.
This will help baseline the oil burning rate.
2) Drain the oil/LubeGard/Kreen out.
3) Fill with TBD. Help me here... PYB 5w-30 to see where it's at correct?? Or, M1 TDT 5w-40 for it's high cleaning abilities?? (I got the 30 Qts. of M1 TDT on an extreme clearance, so the expense is no issue.
Ok, chime in on what oil route I should go!
I finished repairing the Red Hot and it's fully ready for the road!
Recap: There's 2,000 miles on the PYB 5w-30 + LubeGard Bio-Tech. It's burning 1/2 Qt of oil per ~200 miles. I added 14 Oz. of KREEN to the oil about 100 miles ago.
The oil is BLACK already.
Plan:
1) Since gas is cheaper, I'm going to do some Freeway runs to get this mixture running through the engine, maybe a couple of 300 mile day runs.
2) Drain the oil/LubeGard/Kreen out.
3) Fill with TBD. Help me here... PYB 5w-30 to see where it's at correct?? Or, M1 TDT 5w-40 for it's high cleaning abilities?? (I got the 30 Qts. of M1 TDT on an extreme clearance, so the expense is no issue.
Ok, chime in on what oil route I should go!
KREEN cleaning update:
The 1 Pint of KREEN was in the oil for 300 miles, EVEN THOUGH the label says
to run it for 1/2 hour, then drain the oil.
MAN, that 2, 500 mile OCI of PYB + LubeGard Bio-Tech + Kreen was sheer B L A C K !!
So, I drained it and put in 4.5 Quarts of PYB 5w-30.
I let it drip for an hour, but when I filled it & ran it for 30 minutes and checked the oil,
it was a little dark again, so some serious cleaning must be going on
with PYB + Kreen.
The 1 Pint of KREEN was in the oil for 300 miles, EVEN THOUGH the label says
to run it for 1/2 hour, then drain the oil.
MAN, that 2, 500 mile OCI of PYB + LubeGard Bio-Tech + Kreen was sheer B L A C K !!
So, I drained it and put in 4.5 Quarts of PYB 5w-30.
I let it drip for an hour, but when I filled it & ran it for 30 minutes and checked the oil,
it was a little dark again, so some serious cleaning must be going on
with PYB + Kreen.
Awesome, sounds like you are really killing the sludgy mess.
Keep us posted...
Keep us posted...
Strongest stuff i have heard of is the "Johnson Evinrude Engine Tuner Tune-Up 777185"
"FOR USE IN ENGINE TUNE-UP,
TO REMOVE GUM AND VARNISH DEPOSITS FROM INTAKES,
REMOVES EXCESSIVE CARBON DEPOSITS FORM RINGS, PISTONS, VALVES AND PORTS"
I know its for boats but i have a buddy that works on boat motors on the side and said its the strongest cleaner he has used to clean intakes and pistons..melts carbon and varnish like crazy.
$14 on amazon
"FOR USE IN ENGINE TUNE-UP,
TO REMOVE GUM AND VARNISH DEPOSITS FROM INTAKES,
REMOVES EXCESSIVE CARBON DEPOSITS FORM RINGS, PISTONS, VALVES AND PORTS"
I know its for boats but i have a buddy that works on boat motors on the side and said its the strongest cleaner he has used to clean intakes and pistons..melts carbon and varnish like crazy.
$14 on amazon
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