Rolomoto, if you would like to try the extractor route, I can walk you through it. I just removed a sheared off grease fitting last week and the extractor worked flawlessly. If you can measure the diameter of the bolt, I can then tell you which size extractor to get and the matching drill bit size. Each extractor size uses a specific corresponding drill bit.
Bolts sheared off
- Thread starter Rolomoto
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To the OP, I would keep things in perspective, remembering that you are just trying to secure a plastic panel to a 13 year old car in the salt belt (assuming you are referring to your Echo). It's not a critical repair like a strut mount, it cannot be seen, and sometimes it is o.k. to cobble things.
Trav's suggestion is great, but exactly locating the bolt center and drilling perfectly plumb with a hand drill in an awkward position (no lift, I assume) is probably a cake walk for him, but more difficult for us weekend warriors.
Consider alternatives if things go awry. As mentioned, it would be simple to drill two new holes an inch away from the welded in ones, run in a self tapping bolt, and be done with it.
If your drill hole goes bad (off center or crooked), just drill it out over size and again, run in a self tapping screw.
You could probably even use a high quality plastic push pin type of fastener and forgo any threads/threading.
I'm just preparing you for how things sometimes go and that you can probably get away with not establishing new, high quality machine threads.
Make sure you slather everything in antiseize to slow down future rust issues.
Good luck!!!!!
Trav's suggestion is great, but exactly locating the bolt center and drilling perfectly plumb with a hand drill in an awkward position (no lift, I assume) is probably a cake walk for him, but more difficult for us weekend warriors.
Consider alternatives if things go awry. As mentioned, it would be simple to drill two new holes an inch away from the welded in ones, run in a self tapping bolt, and be done with it.
If your drill hole goes bad (off center or crooked), just drill it out over size and again, run in a self tapping screw.
You could probably even use a high quality plastic push pin type of fastener and forgo any threads/threading.
I'm just preparing you for how things sometimes go and that you can probably get away with not establishing new, high quality machine threads.
Make sure you slather everything in antiseize to slow down future rust issues.
Good luck!!!!!
Your right, if the drilling didn't go according to plan just drill it out and use a push pin or Christmas Tree pin as you say, either should hold it.
I always try my best to make things as original if i can, its hard for an old dog to learn new tricks so i probably will keep on doing it.
I always try my best to make things as original if i can, its hard for an old dog to learn new tricks so i probably will keep on doing it.
Yes, due to the angle and space restrictions, I anticipate a great deal of difficulty if not impossibility of trying to drill straight holes into the bolts. I think those plastic things would do the job. Do you know what size holes I would need to drill to fit those in?
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
To the OP, I would keep things in perspective, remembering that you are just trying to secure a plastic panel to a 13 year old car in the salt belt (assuming you are referring to your Echo). It's not a critical repair like a strut mount, it cannot be seen, and sometimes it is o.k. to cobble things.
Trav's suggestion is great, but exactly locating the bolt center and drilling perfectly plumb with a hand drill in an awkward position (no lift, I assume) is probably a cake walk for him, but more difficult for us weekend warriors.
Consider alternatives if things go awry. As mentioned, it would be simple to drill two new holes an inch away from the welded in ones, run in a self tapping bolt, and be done with it.
If your drill hole goes bad (off center or crooked), just drill it out over size and again, run in a self tapping screw.
You could probably even use a high quality plastic push pin type of fastener and forgo any threads/threading.
I'm just preparing you for how things sometimes go and that you can probably get away with not establishing new, high quality machine threads.
Make sure you slather everything in antiseize to slow down future rust issues.
Good luck!!!!!
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
To the OP, I would keep things in perspective, remembering that you are just trying to secure a plastic panel to a 13 year old car in the salt belt (assuming you are referring to your Echo). It's not a critical repair like a strut mount, it cannot be seen, and sometimes it is o.k. to cobble things.
Trav's suggestion is great, but exactly locating the bolt center and drilling perfectly plumb with a hand drill in an awkward position (no lift, I assume) is probably a cake walk for him, but more difficult for us weekend warriors.
Consider alternatives if things go awry. As mentioned, it would be simple to drill two new holes an inch away from the welded in ones, run in a self tapping bolt, and be done with it.
If your drill hole goes bad (off center or crooked), just drill it out over size and again, run in a self tapping screw.
You could probably even use a high quality plastic push pin type of fastener and forgo any threads/threading.
I'm just preparing you for how things sometimes go and that you can probably get away with not establishing new, high quality machine threads.
Make sure you slather everything in antiseize to slow down future rust issues.
Good luck!!!!!
They come in dozens of styles and sizes. Go to the auto parts store and pick the one that suits your needs, with attention to the mechanism style, robustness, length, and diameter. Get an easy to remove style if that is a priority. Maybe buy several types and return the ones you don't use.
Depending on your course of action, the plastic holes should have a tiny bit of slop to allow expansion and contraction.
And to Trav, your advice at BITOG, obviously based on years of real world experience, is sincerely appreciated by many of us here. Thank you for sharing your expertise and wisdom.
Per Trav - "I always try my best to make things as original if i can, its hard for an old dog to learn new tricks so i probably will keep on doing it." A "character flaw" indicative of your demand for excellence that I also have. But as I get old, I am working very hard to adopt the "gut enuf" principle whenever appropriate.
Take care.
Depending on your course of action, the plastic holes should have a tiny bit of slop to allow expansion and contraction.
And to Trav, your advice at BITOG, obviously based on years of real world experience, is sincerely appreciated by many of us here. Thank you for sharing your expertise and wisdom.
Per Trav - "I always try my best to make things as original if i can, its hard for an old dog to learn new tricks so i probably will keep on doing it." A "character flaw" indicative of your demand for excellence that I also have. But as I get old, I am working very hard to adopt the "gut enuf" principle whenever appropriate.
Take care.
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