Giubo

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OVERKILL

$100 Site Donor 2021
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Also called a flex disc, Universal Joint....etc.

The M5 recently has developed a "jingle" from the drivetrain on take-off and in trying to ascertain what lovely component was causing this noise it was discovered that the giubo wasn't in too hot of shape. It also was relatively obvious that it wasn't the source of the noise either but it was changed because it needed to be and of course the noise persisted.

Here's what the old one looks like:

giubo01.jpg

giubo02.jpg


Replacement came directly from BMW, was around $150.00. Made in Germany
thumbsup2.gif


So it now looks like the centre support bearing is the culprit, though it is hard to check since it is buried under the exhaust and other goodies. I've ordered a replacement and the driveshaft needs to come out to inspect, but that is in fact the area the noise is coming from.
 
My c5 used the same giubo as yours, when it came time for replacement, I went with the prothane six shooter. It's working good.
 
Originally Posted By: barkingspider
My c5 used the same giubo as yours, when it came time for replacement, I went with the prothane six shooter. It's working good.


I figured the OEM one lasted 13 years and 180,000Km, why mess with what worked?
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
I was going to say csb.

You should post pics of the job as it is done.


Will do! Local Chrysler dealer is doing the install/removal, as I lack a hoist, new part should be here this week.
 
Why not replace the whole driveshaft with a reman? It'll cost more in parts but will save you a bit in labor, and will come with new joints as a preventive measure.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: barkingspider
My c5 used the same giubo as yours, when it came time for replacement, I went with the prothane six shooter. It's working good.


I figured the OEM one lasted 13 years and 180,000Km, why mess with what worked?
smile.gif



OEM is the only way to go. Some claim the poly/poly aluminum transmits too much drive line shock and vibration to surrounding parts like the tail shaft bearings.
I never tried one and probably never will.
BMW spent the time figuring out the compound to get it just right why mess with a good thing. Cheap ones tear themselves apart.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Why not replace the whole driveshaft with a reman? It'll cost more in parts but will save you a bit in labor, and will come with new joints as a preventive measure.


Well, depending on how the joints look it may go down to a local driveline shop to have new joints put in. Won't know until it is out.

A new shaft is expensive, cheapest I could find it was from Turner for around $600. Bavauto is closer to 1K and factoring in shipping, duty....etc, I'm going to try and see what can be done with what I have first.
 
I have to say, these things are on my car and it is not an impressive discovery. They just seem so mickey mouse.

But they work! 200 plus passes at the strip and dozens of road course dates plus aggressive street action now for almost 100k miles, and I cannot believe the little buggers aren't broken...
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
A new shaft is expensive, cheapest I could find it was from Turner for around $600. Bavauto is closer to 1K and factoring in shipping, duty....etc, I'm going to try and see what can be done with what I have first.


That's for cromoly or aluminum alloy shafts?

I can put a REAL, strong, carbon fiber driveshaft on my car for those prices!!
eek.gif
 
I believe the shaft segments are just steel (chromoly). I'll take a closer look when they are out.
 
Doing the joints on yours is no big deal. When i do them i match mark it, assemble then take it with the center bearing to the driveshaft place where they do a nice dynamic balancing job.
$70 for the balance but its worth ever penny.

This place also uses auto weld and can do custom shafts. I had my old Expedition shafts balanced after i shot basted and recoated them, smoother than new!
 
Yes, Trav is so right. A good drive shaft specialist is an amazing asset. Many times the factory is not as good at balancing these things!
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Doing the joints on yours is no big deal. When i do them i match mark it, assemble then take it with the center bearing to the driveshaft place where they do a nice dynamic balancing job.
$70 for the balance but its worth ever penny.

This place also uses auto weld and can do custom shafts. I had my old Expedition shafts balanced after i shot basted and recoated them, smoother than new!




I WISH I had a place like this near me, that could also balance alloy shafts (VERY few anywhere can.
frown.gif
).
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

I WISH I had a place like this near me, that could also balance alloy shafts (VERY few anywhere can.
frown.gif
).


I can't imagine that any major metropolitan area wouldn't have one.

All you do is attend a nice local car show and one of the rodders will tell you where to go.

In my area it's a 20 minute drive, but I have had them do such nice work, it is so worth it!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: dailydriver

I WISH I had a place like this near me, that could also balance alloy shafts (VERY few anywhere can.
frown.gif
).


I can't imagine that any major metropolitan area wouldn't have one.

All you do is attend a nice local car show and one of the rodders will tell you where to go.

In my area it's a 20 minute drive, but I have had them do such nice work, it is so worth it!



I don't know, but in this area, and even when I was in Joizee, there were VERY few.
Kind of like when you call a supposedly 'high performance/racing/aftermarket' type muffler/exhaust shop and ask if they can weld 304 stainless pipe with STAINLESS rods, and 9.9 times out of ten the answer is a DEFINITIVE NO!.
frown.gif
(Luckily, I am now even closer to Mufflex than when I was in north Jersey, and they specialize in welding/building stainless exhaust systems, all but actual headers)
 
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