ATF change on a F4-EAT ZX-2

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pbm

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I'm changing the ATF and filter on a Ford ZX-2 with 75K and probably original fluid.
It's shifting OK but I notice a little roughness on the 1 to 2 shift especially when cold.

These F4-EAT tranny's aren't the most durable and I'm wondering if I'd be better using a thicker fluid like Castrol High Mileage (8 Cst @ 100*C) or a thinner fluid like
Maxlife ATF (6.11 Cst @ 100*C). I also have some Pennzoil Multivehicle (silver bottle) which is also 8 Cst @ 100*C I believe.

I plan on using a bottle of LG Red.

What's the consensus on the ATF fluid? I'm I correct thinking that the thicker fluid might work better in these fragile units?

Thoughts?

PS: Can anybody tell me what coolant Ford used in the 2002 ZX-2?....it's probably original and I'll be changing it too...Would Peal Global work?
 
Thanks for that chart Micheal.....this ZX-2 was made in March 2002 so it takes the GY anti-freeze. What would be equivalent to this GY?

Ford's anti-freeze recommendations are very confusing....Motorcraft Premium this and Motorcraft Premium that....I may just flush it good and go with Peak Global.

As far as the ATF...you mention Redline Syncro but I want to stick with an ATF. I really like Maxlife (and I picked some up at the AZ 10.99 sale) but I was concerned about how thin it is in this 'delicate' transmission. I have some Castrol High Mileage and Pennzoil MV which are a bit thicker and I'll probably go that route.

Thanks again.
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Do not put gear oil in an automatic transmission ... that'll kill the transmission pretty quickly ...


I know that....I assume he meant to use one of Redline's ATFs.

What's your opinion re: thick or thin....and which of the 3 that I mentioned would you use.
Does the 'full synthetic' aspect of Maxlife overcome it's thinner viscosity or am I better sticking with one of the thicker one's I listed (incidently I looked up the Pennzoil MV and it's 7.6 Cst @ 100*C and not 8 as I mentioned in my first post).
 
If you are going to drop the pan and replace the filter, I recommend the dealer parts only. I find that aftermarket filters are usually not as good, and aftermarket gaskets are almost never as good as OEM.
 
Unfortunately, Ford was too stupid to pout a drain plug on the transmission. But the good news is that Mazda also used this transmission, and was smart enough to install a drain plug.

So go to your local Mazda dealer, or an online Mazda dealer, and get part number FN11-21-51XB.
 
Anybody know what's equivalent to 'GY' coolant?
Would Peak Global work or should I stick with GO-5?
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
Anybody know what's equivalent to 'GY' coolant?
Would Peak Global work or should I stick with GO-5?


After reading further I see that 'GY' means that it was filled with conventional green at the factory but can be changed to Extended Life (yellow) as long as it is thoroughly flushed out. If yellow was used only to top off the conventional green then the conventional coolant change out schedule must be followed. (This means I can use Peak Global or even Prestone AMM but I can't go 5 year/150K unless I get all the old stuff out)...
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
Originally Posted By: pbm
Anybody know what's equivalent to 'GY' coolant?
Would Peak Global work or should I stick with GO-5?


After reading further I see that 'GY' means that it was filled with conventional green at the factory but can be changed to Extended Life (yellow) as long as it is thoroughly flushed out. If yellow was used only to top off the conventional green then the conventional coolant change out schedule must be followed. (This means I can use Peak Global or even Prestone AMM but I can't go 5 year/150K unless I get all the old stuff out)...


Yes. If you just want to drain and fill, buy good old green, drain and refill, done. If you wanna go G-05, you've gotta rinse the while thing out, heater core included.
I recommend Zerex Green or G-05, but Napa's store brand green also meets Ford's Green spec.
 
I ended up draining the old coolant, filling it with distilled water and driving it until the T-stat opened and then draining it again. I then filled it with Napa Extended Life (made by Old World aka Peak..a dexclone).

I now think this car had some AC work done and had EL coolant put in before so there is a good chance it's all dexclone now.
At any rate, I'll change it again in 2 years with the same coolant and then I'll be sure it's entirely EL coolant.

I probably will use Maxlife ATF because I have a lot of it.
It's 'full synthetic' so the thin viscosity shouldn't hurt.

Thanks for your help, Mike..
 
I got around to changing the ATF yesterday and I must say it was a real PITA. Ford put a cross member right below the A/T pan which had to be removed to access the pan. It made what should have been an easy job quite difficult.
Anyway, I used Maxlife and LG Red so I'll see if it smooths out that 1-2 shift. The internals looked clean except for all the ferrous 'paste'on both magnets.
 
I'd like to know how you like the maxlife in that trans.

I have a '97 escort that to my knowledge never had a trans fluid change. (120k, mi.) In the last few months I've been changing out a couple of quarts at a time with a hand pump through the dipstick. So far its had 4 qts. of Supertech ATF and 1 qt. Castrol IMV. Shifting has not changed much that I can tell.

The car has a very hard 1-2 shift after the fluid gets good and hot. (At least 20 min. driving) My hope is that a slightly thicker fluid (Castrol IMV) will soften the 1-2 shift when hot, but I'm not holding my breath.

Did you have any problem getting the crossmember nuts/bots out? They have a habit of breaking. I need to do engine mounts soon and the back nuts look pretty scary, as do the rubber bushings.
 
There is a drain plug for the transmission it's just not on the pan. I drain and fill 1 qt on my zx2 every 5k miles. Look on the case, a 3/8 extension fits into it like on a differential drain.
 
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