Alternator intermittently charging, 06 Honda Oddy
- Thread starter zfasts03
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Originally Posted By: zfasts03
Charging system relay under the hood in the electrical box??? I will look into this!
Don't waste your time: there is no "relay".
The ELD is in the underhood fuse box, and the ELD did have a tendency to go bad in older Hondas. But I don't believe the ELD is faulty in your case.
Charging system relay under the hood in the electrical box??? I will look into this!
Don't waste your time: there is no "relay".
The ELD is in the underhood fuse box, and the ELD did have a tendency to go bad in older Hondas. But I don't believe the ELD is faulty in your case.
Since you brought this up i am wondering if it couldn't be something with the battery.
I know nothing about these types of batteries only what i read here and there.
I know nothing about these types of batteries only what i read here and there.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Since you brought this up i am wondering if it couldn't be something with the battery.
If you look at one of my previous replies, you'll see I wondered the same thing. OP has installed some sort of AGM battery, immediately after which his problems began. Might be a coincidence, or it might not.
I'm no battery expert, so I can't see how it would matter, but I did wonder if an absorbed-glass-mat battery might have the wrong sorts of characteristics for a dual-mode charging system that would have been designed around a standard lead-acid battery..
Since you brought this up i am wondering if it couldn't be something with the battery.
If you look at one of my previous replies, you'll see I wondered the same thing. OP has installed some sort of AGM battery, immediately after which his problems began. Might be a coincidence, or it might not.
I'm no battery expert, so I can't see how it would matter, but I did wonder if an absorbed-glass-mat battery might have the wrong sorts of characteristics for a dual-mode charging system that would have been designed around a standard lead-acid battery..
Possibly could be the combination of AGM battery and WPS Chinese alternator.
I have put 300 miles on the van in the pasts few days, just keepin the headlights on and all is good. Instead of swapping parts which is time consuming and expensive, I think I am going to run it like it is.
Thank you for all your help.
I have put 300 miles on the van in the pasts few days, just keepin the headlights on and all is good. Instead of swapping parts which is time consuming and expensive, I think I am going to run it like it is.
Thank you for all your help.
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: Trav
Since you brought this up i am wondering if it couldn't be something with the battery.
If you look at one of my previous replies, you'll see I wondered the same thing. OP has installed some sort of AGM battery, immediately after which his problems began. Might be a coincidence, or it might not.
I'm no battery expert, so I can't see how it would matter, but I did wonder if an absorbed-glass-mat battery might have the wrong sorts of characteristics for a dual-mode charging system that would have been designed around a standard lead-acid battery..
Yes i know thats what go me thinking about it, thats why i said since you brought it up.
You may be onto something i don't know. I never used one of these batteries but thought about one until the manager told me how many returns they had on the Optima.
I see some cordless tool chargers that specifically state not for this type or that type of battery so i guess there could be something effecting this dual charging mode.
Unfortunately not much info is around about these things.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Since you brought this up i am wondering if it couldn't be something with the battery.
If you look at one of my previous replies, you'll see I wondered the same thing. OP has installed some sort of AGM battery, immediately after which his problems began. Might be a coincidence, or it might not.
I'm no battery expert, so I can't see how it would matter, but I did wonder if an absorbed-glass-mat battery might have the wrong sorts of characteristics for a dual-mode charging system that would have been designed around a standard lead-acid battery..
Yes i know thats what go me thinking about it, thats why i said since you brought it up.
You may be onto something i don't know. I never used one of these batteries but thought about one until the manager told me how many returns they had on the Optima.
I see some cordless tool chargers that specifically state not for this type or that type of battery so i guess there could be something effecting this dual charging mode.
Unfortunately not much info is around about these things.
Originally Posted By: zfasts03
Instead of swapping parts which is time consuming and expensive, I think I am going to run it like it is.
If you're handy with a multimeter, there are tests you can perform without spending money on parts.
I have a PDF I can email to you if you PM me with a valid email address. This PDF explains the dual-mode charging system and gives diagnostics procedures.
I still suspect the alternator is not operating correctly in low-charge mode. The PDF suggests that this is a common problem, and that many technicians prefer to use OE alternators to prevent charge-light-on problems.
If you turn off all loads and allow the battery light to come back on, do you measure less than 12.4 volts with the engine running?
Instead of swapping parts which is time consuming and expensive, I think I am going to run it like it is.
If you're handy with a multimeter, there are tests you can perform without spending money on parts.
I have a PDF I can email to you if you PM me with a valid email address. This PDF explains the dual-mode charging system and gives diagnostics procedures.
I still suspect the alternator is not operating correctly in low-charge mode. The PDF suggests that this is a common problem, and that many technicians prefer to use OE alternators to prevent charge-light-on problems.
If you turn off all loads and allow the battery light to come back on, do you measure less than 12.4 volts with the engine running?
Originally Posted By: zfasts03
When the alternator is not charging I see about 12.5 volts
I can recheck this to see how low it will drop after extended time not charging and get a more exact number, but from what I remember it was about 12.5 v.
You may need to allow the vehicle to operate for a while with the battery-light illuminated in order to force the battery to drain to its final level.
Apparently this is important. If the number remains above 12.4 volts at low-charge, then the alternator is producing what it should, and the problem may be communication between the alternator and the ECM.
I just sent you that PDF via email.
When the alternator is not charging I see about 12.5 volts
I can recheck this to see how low it will drop after extended time not charging and get a more exact number, but from what I remember it was about 12.5 v.
You may need to allow the vehicle to operate for a while with the battery-light illuminated in order to force the battery to drain to its final level.
Apparently this is important. If the number remains above 12.4 volts at low-charge, then the alternator is producing what it should, and the problem may be communication between the alternator and the ECM.
I just sent you that PDF via email.
Tegger I received the PDF. Thank you! I read it quickly and I agree that aftermarket alternator looks to be the culprit. I will reread more closely and possibly take some more meter readings. But all info does look at the aftermarket alternator to be the issue.
Thanks so much on this puzzling issue.
Thanks so much on this puzzling issue.
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