Newbie to 1911's. Full length guide rod question.

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I have a stainless Springfield 1911 in 9mm, and it has a 2 piece guide rod that has to be removed with an allen wrench. My question is do I have to use the guide rod, or can I just shoot the gun w/o it? Does it really do anything? Just curious as the allen wrench would be easy to lose.
 
I would not shoot it without the guide rod installed (I'm assuming you really mean the 2nd piece of a two piece).

2 piece FLGR's are my least favorite kind...

You could locktite it together and it can still be disassembled the Wilson way.

You can replace it with a 1 piece guide rod that allows normal take down.

You can replace it with a "GI" set up (my preference)
 
You can shoot it without the guide rod.

Once.

I would buy another allen wrench...

Seriously, what do you think the guide rod does?
 
Originally Posted By: Slick17601
A GI guide rod is the way to go and the way John Browning intended. A FLGR really has no advantage over the original.


I agree, although some would argue...

In addition the plug is designed to have a tab which when properly assembled retains it to the spring.

Colt and Cylinder and Slide are the only ones that have this tab to the best of my knowledge, and I have seen genuine Colt stainless plugs without it...
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
You can shoot it without the guide rod.

Once.

I would buy another allen wrench...

Seriously, what do you think the guide rod does?


I was referring to the second piece that screws in at the end. The rest of the parts look very similar in size th the GI.
 
I would think the allen wrench would be a fairly common size and probably pretty easy to replace. That said, I prefer the GI style myself and have changed several guide rods for the old style.
 
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The GI style plug is basically hollow all the way to the end.

The plug for a FLGR has a bearing surface inside of it. Different brands seem the vary a bit as to how much bearing surface.

If you remove the 2nd piece (hereafter referred to as the "end") of the FLGR and hand cycle the unloaded weapon I believe you will find that is possible for the remaining potion of the FLGR to strike the bearing surface before the barrel strikes the VIS.

I do not have one to verify that though, so it is possible I am incorrect.

Not worth the risk IMO since correct components are relatively inexpensive.

You might ask this over at:

m1911.org

Make note of the rules.

or

1911forum.com

There is probably someone on one of those forums that has actually done it.
 
I have a Wilson solid FLGR that I rotate shooting in my three 1911's - it's a precision piece that just requires depressing and rotating the barrel bushing for field stripping. I think it makes a tiny difference in my well tuned Sig and Colt 1911's, but I can't tell the difference in my otherwise bone stock Ruger 1911.

My advice, get a GI guide rod or if you want to stick with a FLGR get a Wilson. They are pretty nice.
 
OK, thanks for the advice. Are they all a standard size, or would I have to get a Springfield? I'm assuming there is no machine work to convert to the GI style.
 
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
I have a Wilson solid FLGR that I rotate shooting in my three 1911's - it's a precision piece that just requires depressing and rotating the barrel bushing for field stripping. I think it makes a tiny difference in my well tuned Sig and Colt 1911's, but I can't tell the difference in my otherwise bone stock Ruger 1911.

My advice, get a GI guide rod or if you want to stick with a FLGR get a Wilson. They are pretty nice.


they make a pretty nice 8 round magazine as well..
 
Ditch the FLGR and get a GI setup. You can probably find take-off parts for sale on most gun boards as many people want to "upgrade" to a FLGR.

I removed the FLGR in my STI after I got it, put in GI-style parts.
 
strat81, what type of STI do you have? I'm currently working on my dad's Edge 2011. It has STI's "Recoil Master" dual spring setup, but it doesn't cycle reliably with 115 gr 9mm. So we're thinking that a lighter spring might be in order. But STI appears to have only two "weights" of Recoil Master springs...light (which the 9mm has) and heavy. I may need to call STI and see what they say.
 
Oh, and it will not require any machining as long as you do not get a reverse plug.

RE: 9mm 1911's an 115gr. Many seem to have issues with 115gr ammunition to the point that some manufacturers advise against it. Stock 9mm 1911 recoil springs vary quite a bit from about 9lbs to 14lbs. I run 14 in mine. It would be necessary to have the exact details of the malfunction to provide any meaningful advice.
 
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
RE: 9mm 1911's an 115gr. Many seem to have issues with 115gr ammunition to the point that some manufacturers advise against it. Stock 9mm 1911 recoil springs vary quite a bit from about 9lbs to 14lbs. I run 14 in mine. It would be necessary to have the exact details of the malfunction to provide any meaningful advice.


From what I understand, it doesn't feed and/or sometimes doesn't get the old brass ejected. It's not a consistent problem...it's probably JUST on the fence of working or not working, and a slightly lighter charge here or there will bring it down. I have not yet shot it myself, so I have not been able to observe the ejection pattern, if there is one.
 
Recoil spring strength makes a big difference - my wife's Beretta simply doesn't like PMC 115 gr 9mm. It's relatively new, with a new spring, and the PMC won't fully cycle the slide. No problems with hotter ammo. Not surprised at all to hear that a 1911 won't cycle with some of the weaker 9mm stuff....
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
strat81, what type of STI do you have? I'm currently working on my dad's Edge 2011. It has STI's "Recoil Master" dual spring setup, but it doesn't cycle reliably with 115 gr 9mm. So we're thinking that a lighter spring might be in order. But STI appears to have only two "weights" of Recoil Master springs...light (which the 9mm has) and heavy. I may need to call STI and see what they say.


I got the po' boy special: STI Spartan .45. It had a solid 1 piece FLGR in it, which was promptly removed.

Run some NATO-spec 124gr in that Edge and see how it does. If you reload, try some stout charges of Power Pistol.
 
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The Edge runs fine on 124 grain and 147 grain ammo. Dad would like to be able to shoot 115 grain in it as well. I'll call them and see what they recommend.
 
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