stuck castle nut

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
Messages
66
Location
PA
I can't get the castle nut off the lower ball joint. I soaked it in PB. It's right under the axle so all I can use is a wrench. When I try and turn it, the whole wheel turns. I'm swapping out the lower control arm and it's all one assembly. Any ideas on how to get it off?
Thanks

picture of castle nut
 
Last edited:
Hammer the side of the nut on the flats with a 3/8'' pin punch. That might break the corrosive bond between the nut and the ball joint stud. Alternatively, you could apply a flame to it too.
 
+1 on adding heat, letting it cool some, then spraying it down with Penetrating oil and letting it sit for awhile.

Sometimes all you need is an electric heat gun set on high for 10 minutes, other times a propane torch.

That being said, I'm in Texas. I don't see the horror you guys see up there in Pennsylvania.
 
heat + hammering on the side of the hub where the ball joint taper bolt meets, + penetrating oil should do the job.

Q.
 
If the wheel is turning, try to block it so you can really crank on the nut. If the threaded portion of the ball joint is turning, then put a jack under the control arm and put the vehicle weight on it, which will press it into the taper and stop the turning.

You may be able to tap the wrench with a 3Lb sledge to give it an impact.
 
Put a jack under the control arm where the joint is and put it under pressure. Put the box end of the wrench on the nut and rap it with a hammer.
 
Clamp a pair of vise grips to the boot of the ball joint so that it prevents the joint it self from spinning. Then hold vise grips while wrenching and the castle nut should come off.
 
I have had that problem before and just used a floor jack to put some pressure on the bottom of the control arm. That held it in place tight enough for me to get the castle nut off. Carefull with the jackstands!
 
I would try heat and more PB Blaster. Then block the wheel from turning and get a wrench and a pipe for leverage. It should loosen. If not, cut it. I've done that before
 
If you can squeeze in a breaker bar with an extension or something, you can use a long pole or the handle to a jack for leverage, a long pole or jack handle might even fit over the end of the wrench.
 
No need to go to extremes for that. Stop the wheel from turning and use a bar of some type for leverage. If that didn't work (which I can't imagine it wouldn't) then use a jack stand but be careful. Heat is better but if you use a torch, you really better be careful.
 
Been there before. I used a nut cracker on the one I had to remove. It destroys the nut, but the new balljoint should come with one anyway.
 
Try just seating the taper back by hitting the bottom of the ball joint with 3lb mini sledge. Then use a pry bar to keep the knuckle from turning.
 
In your picture it really doesn't look like it should be all too stuck, but then pictures don''t always tell the whole story, right.

Anyway, if by "the whole wheel turns" that's not an issue because it only goes so far then stops. If you mean that the ball stud has broken free from the knuckle, then in a way you're lucky because it'll be easy to separate after the nut is off.

Jack up the ball joint forcing it into the knuckle. Tighten the nut about maybe 1/2 turn so the ball stud is pulled into it's hole where it used to belong. Unscrew the nut.

Tightening the nut first may not be necessary, but if you start unscrewing the nut and the stud starts turning on you again just as it's almost off you'll wish you had done it.
 
Originally Posted By: robshelton
I have had that problem before and just used a floor jack to put some pressure on the bottom of the control arm. That held it in place tight enough for me to get the castle nut off. Carefull with the jackstands!
X2 this usually happens to me with NY-Lok nuts
 
Living in MI i grt lots of practice with stuck fasteners! Heat is always good, but penetrating oil, a good box end wrench and a hammer will do the trick everytime if you have some patients.

I share concern with am above poster, though. Is the BJ stud spinning inside the taper (pita) or does the entire steering knuckle want to turn with the nut (not a pita yet)?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top